suli
Active Member
Added JScan settings
How To: Adding OEM Upfitter Aux Switches on 2019+ Ram 1500 (DT) - [Post 5]
How To: Adding OEM Upfitter Aux Switches on 2019+ Ram 1500 (DT) - [Post 5]
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How To: Adding OEM Upfitter Aux Switches on 2019+ Ram 1500 (DT)
- Thread starter suli
- Start date
suli
Active Member
Added details for swapping over your trailer controller to the new panel:
Swapping over your trailer controller above
Swapping over your trailer controller above
suli
Active Member
suli
Active Member
Added the jscan working in the Programing post
suli
Active Member
Here's some good images of my pigtail building
Made my new wire harness from individual high-temp silicone 20ga wire, wrapped with Tesa tape (fabric electrical tape):
Marked the cables of where to cut/ strip/ crimp:
If your crimper bends these slightly like you see here, just a needle nose to straighten them out, or they wont fit the connector:
Once done, use some heat shrink on the end to bundle them up (do NOT go any shorter then this or you wont be able to have enough movement to get them into the connector on the OEM harness. I also made a label here and used clear heat shrink tube on it to seal it on:
My trusty Fluke 77 and my Brady cable labeler. Make sure you continuity test each lead once crimped.
Made my new wire harness from individual high-temp silicone 20ga wire, wrapped with Tesa tape (fabric electrical tape):
Marked the cables of where to cut/ strip/ crimp:
If your crimper bends these slightly like you see here, just a needle nose to straighten them out, or they wont fit the connector:
Once done, use some heat shrink on the end to bundle them up (do NOT go any shorter then this or you wont be able to have enough movement to get them into the connector on the OEM harness. I also made a label here and used clear heat shrink tube on it to seal it on:
My trusty Fluke 77 and my Brady cable labeler. Make sure you continuity test each lead once crimped.
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suli
Active Member
If you are not making a pigtail and inserting into each plug, don't push them all in yet, just place them in and double check your pin locations (they are keyed to go in a certain direction:
Next, use a small needed nose and push them in one by one fully by row. They will fully seat, and check the connector face as you can visually see when they have set all the way, secure it with zip ties to the OEM plug.
Run it from the back of the radio through the drivers side of the cab, watch for sharp edges and use other harnesses to secure it along the way, staying clear of accelerator pedal, steering column, etc. I ran it behind the fuse block under the steering wheel and secured it to make sure it's out of the way (driver seat is towards the top of photo):
This is where you can run it through the firewall. This is where the OEM Power Sidesteps also have you feed through the firewall (not the hood release cable spot, you can see that in the bottom right of the picture. That box is actually the power side steps controller.
Another picture, it's more of a rectangle rubber plug with a round on the top, a lot of cab wires run through here
Here is where you'll come into the engine bay. If wiring it all in now, leave a short drip loop (section of cable that hangs down below the exit here).
I left mine bundled here for now while I make my fuse/relay box. If you are running it, pull the front driver plastic fender well and run the cables there behind the battery box if you are running it to the front of the engine bay. Look at the OEM powered side step instructions on this, they describe it well how to do this.
Next, use a small needed nose and push them in one by one fully by row. They will fully seat, and check the connector face as you can visually see when they have set all the way, secure it with zip ties to the OEM plug.
Run it from the back of the radio through the drivers side of the cab, watch for sharp edges and use other harnesses to secure it along the way, staying clear of accelerator pedal, steering column, etc. I ran it behind the fuse block under the steering wheel and secured it to make sure it's out of the way (driver seat is towards the top of photo):
This is where you can run it through the firewall. This is where the OEM Power Sidesteps also have you feed through the firewall (not the hood release cable spot, you can see that in the bottom right of the picture. That box is actually the power side steps controller.
Another picture, it's more of a rectangle rubber plug with a round on the top, a lot of cab wires run through here
Here is where you'll come into the engine bay. If wiring it all in now, leave a short drip loop (section of cable that hangs down below the exit here).
I left mine bundled here for now while I make my fuse/relay box. If you are running it, pull the front driver plastic fender well and run the cables there behind the battery box if you are running it to the front of the engine bay. Look at the OEM powered side step instructions on this, they describe it well how to do this.
suli
Active Member
I've FINALLY gotten around to making the fuse/relay box combo. I'll be finishing it all up in a few days and I'll add some more pictures and details for the box and relays I used (also using Delphi Metripak 280 style connectors, as it just makes it all easier.
Yes, it's taken me a year to get to this and finally get it finished. *sigh*
Yes, it's taken me a year to get to this and finally get it finished. *sigh*
suli
Active Member
ALL DONE!
Just in case to make future me not work as hard, added a ground to each plug. You could have just used 3 2-pin plugs with each side a aux power lead, but have 6 separate made it a bit easier later. I also just pig-tailed six grounds together to the ground spot in back of the engine bay. Same for the power off the aux fuse block to the PDM (fuse/relay box). No distribution block from ground or power leads used. Keeping it up front by the main truck PDM makes it easier for fixing later as well.
I really liked the delphi water sealing connectors all around (280 style), especially using the correct gauge grommet for each wire. The Aux pigtails (the ones you see with the blue keep clips on them) have the actual accessory connector plugged in, it just has two solid blank grommets to keep it all clean and water out.
Also really liked the GEP PDM box, it's awesome how you can just configure it any way you want using the same 280 pins are the connectors. Also has retainers for the back side to keep it form coming out if you go ape and push too hard. This was as I was building it on my workbench.
All in all, super happy with how it all turned out. Well worth finally getting around to it to get it done!
Just in case to make future me not work as hard, added a ground to each plug. You could have just used 3 2-pin plugs with each side a aux power lead, but have 6 separate made it a bit easier later. I also just pig-tailed six grounds together to the ground spot in back of the engine bay. Same for the power off the aux fuse block to the PDM (fuse/relay box). No distribution block from ground or power leads used. Keeping it up front by the main truck PDM makes it easier for fixing later as well.
I really liked the delphi water sealing connectors all around (280 style), especially using the correct gauge grommet for each wire. The Aux pigtails (the ones you see with the blue keep clips on them) have the actual accessory connector plugged in, it just has two solid blank grommets to keep it all clean and water out.
Also really liked the GEP PDM box, it's awesome how you can just configure it any way you want using the same 280 pins are the connectors. Also has retainers for the back side to keep it form coming out if you go ape and push too hard. This was as I was building it on my workbench.
All in all, super happy with how it all turned out. Well worth finally getting around to it to get it done!
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catrue
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@suli Thank you for the great write-up! I ended up buying the switches and relay box/cables from another member who was selling stuff off. So even though I did not build the unit, your posts were extremely helpful to understand how everything worked together. I ended up tinkering around with it, checking continuity and resistance to make sure it was ready to install. I did have a couple of the power out leads that seemed inconsistent with the readings and after pulling back the wrap, found some loose splices. Swapped out those wires completely and soldered in Deutsch connectors with a pigtailed ground. I liked your power input setup, so did that as well. Still need to wrap the power cable, I'll do all the finish work tomorrow. I did not tighten the battery box back yet, as I will be running another harness behind it for the lightbar. I did check, and as I tighten it back down, the harness slips nicely into the recess.
Overall, very pleased with the results, looks clean and will definitely be easy to add lights and such with just needing to wire up the connector and plug it in! Alfa went smooth, two power cycles and all switches were visible in the UC5 settings menu.
Plan is to fire up the heater in the garage, eat some turkey, watch some football and install some lights!
Overall, very pleased with the results, looks clean and will definitely be easy to add lights and such with just needing to wire up the connector and plug it in! Alfa went smooth, two power cycles and all switches were visible in the UC5 settings menu.
Plan is to fire up the heater in the garage, eat some turkey, watch some football and install some lights!
I don't seem to be getting the option to control the switch functions from my 12.1UC4 after making the Alpha changes and wiring everything up.
2019 RAM 1500 updated BCM to 2022 firmware.
CBC Features: Configuration Aux Switches PTO- SIX SWITCHES
LIN & Misc: ASBM Present- YES
CustSetMenu 1: Auxiliary Switches- 3-6 OPTION
The switches light up when you press one, so they work, just can't change the output setting from the radio.
Is this something I can only change in Alpha?
2019 RAM 1500 updated BCM to 2022 firmware.
CBC Features: Configuration Aux Switches PTO- SIX SWITCHES
LIN & Misc: ASBM Present- YES
CustSetMenu 1: Auxiliary Switches- 3-6 OPTION
The switches light up when you press one, so they work, just can't change the output setting from the radio.
Is this something I can only change in Alpha?
Following this forum for a long time as I have been trying to get aux switches since I got the truck. I have a 2023 1500 Rebel GT, and all other mods are mechanical only. This weekend I finally installed the factory aux switch kit and correct switch assembly. My problem is I cannot get the switches to trip the relays and power the cables.
I am getting power to the switches (light up with backlight but no orange indicator lights). I am getting power to the fuse box off the Main PDC. I was able to use my TazerDT to reprogram the truck for aux switches. Everything seems right but still now power to the aux cables.
I will add that this box from Mopar looks nothing like the older kit. If need be I can get a picture and post it later.
I saw on another forum (4th Gen rams) that they were having a similar problem and solved it via jumping connector 1 and 9 behind the switch panel. On the 2015 wiring diagram it states 1 and 9 are power bus (F930 and F940) where as on the 2023 diagram posted earlier here it says they are unused. Wanted to check here before I try anything like this.
Has anyone else run into this problem?
I am getting power to the switches (light up with backlight but no orange indicator lights). I am getting power to the fuse box off the Main PDC. I was able to use my TazerDT to reprogram the truck for aux switches. Everything seems right but still now power to the aux cables.
I will add that this box from Mopar looks nothing like the older kit. If need be I can get a picture and post it later.
I saw on another forum (4th Gen rams) that they were having a similar problem and solved it via jumping connector 1 and 9 behind the switch panel. On the 2015 wiring diagram it states 1 and 9 are power bus (F930 and F940) where as on the 2023 diagram posted earlier here it says they are unused. Wanted to check here before I try anything like this.
Has anyone else run into this problem?
Only thing I can think of is check this post on HDRAMS. There was a ground nut missing inside the AUX PDC...
Aux Switches
That's the wiring kit bundle for all AUX Switch equipped trucks. It's the "external" wiring for connecting stuff to the aux ports, adding pass-thru wiring jumpers in he cab, and the extra pass-thru wiring the 21+ trucks come with. It has nothing to do with the installed AUX PDC. That's what I...
hdrams.com
