Smooth drive, minimize float, 33" Tires--what leveling or suspension to choose?

[mardigan]

HI all,

I have a stock bighorn/lonestar, and want to add 33's to it. I want to level it/raise the profile for the 33's and have no rubbing.

Here's the challenge, I want it to drive as close to stock ride quality as possible--for instance, I love the look of 35's and 3.5" lift, but when I test drove a friends in this setup, I felt like it floated around in the steering at higher speeds, which I hated.

This was enough to convince me to want to go with lower 33" tires instead, and try to go with a leveling approach vs a lift. Would appreciate any thoughts/advice on options I should consider?

Thoughts on best leveling approach, and should I consider different shocks (I like the idea of Rebel having upgraded shocks, and wouldn't mind doing the same to increase my offroad performance.

Thanks for any thoughts!

 

[Gren71]

I would consider Beilstein adjustable front struts. You can change the height to whatever level, or close to level, you are looking for and they use your stock springs.

 

[mardigan]

Thanks for the reply, just found my way into Beilstein 5100 threads, they seem the way to go from my reading. Forgive a really dumb new guy question, I'm just adjusting the front for rake, and a 2" level then, is there nothing to be done to the rear of the vehicle in this scenario?

 

[Gren71]

Thanks for the reply, just found my way into Beilstein 5100 threads, they seem the way to go from my reading. Forgive a really dumb new guy question, I'm just adjusting the front for rake, and a 2" level then, is there nothing to be done to the rear of the vehicle in this scenario?

If your “leveling” then youre making the front height the same as the rear..for example the ground to center of wheel well height is the same front/rear.

Id suggest keeping a little rake..say 1/2 - 1
Inch. That way you don’t look like a dog running while pooping as you drive. IMO a common mistake folks make is the be perfectly level while parked…and not knowing they look stupid driving..not to mention the whole headlight misalignment issue that comes with “level”.

As far as the 5100s go..you can do the front and the rear at the same time. But be aware you’ll notice a slightly stiffer ride as the billsteins are a little stiffer than oem. I THINK if you do only the front you wont notice the difference much if at all since the majority of the truck weight is on the front.

 

[PurpleRT]

Another thing to keep in mind when “leveling” is if you have the sport style hood.. the fronts gonna look nose high with a level I suggest keep a slight rake. A little rake doesn’t look bad on these trucks once you get rid of those pathetic 32” stock size tires and if you do load the bed up it won’t have that Carolina squat going down the road that the young folks love.


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[Scram1500]

For what its worth 33's fit stock ride height with no rubbing

 

[mardigan]

Keep me honest team, spent hours reading the long 5100 Bilstein thread. My takeaway is this (and I'm looking for confirmation) I can do 5100's in front, #5 setting, and get about a 2" lift. Results may vary, but I don't have off road package. I can leave stock springs. I can add 5100's to rear, and from what I can tell, I don't need to add or change anything else there if I add rear shocks. Some people add Mopar UCA....but many say its not needed so I plan to not do so. Doing all this will leave me with minimal rake. Sound right? Then I plan to put on either 33's or 34's. Goals are to raise the profile for 34's, leave minimal rake, and maintain as close to stock ride quality as possible. Seem like this will work?

 

[HSKR R/T]

As Scram1500 said, you do not need to touch your suspension to fit 33s or even 34s. They will both fit with the stock suspension. Unless you just want the look of the front level. Also, if you do a front level, IMO, 33" tires will look small in the wheel well.

 

[Ready Go]

If you want a 275/60R20 (33") that is a P-rated tire, the Firestone Destination AT2 weighs 42lbs (only 4lbs more than OEM) and has a rep of being super comfortable & quiet.
I had planned on going with this tire, but as @HSKR R/T said above, I wanted a beefier looking tire, so went with a 285/60R20 (33.5") Bridgestone Dueler AT Ascent (which does also make a 41lb 275/60R20).

 

[Gren71]

If you want a 275/60R20 (33") that is a P-rated tire, the Firestone Destination AT2 weighs 42lbs (only 4lbs more than OEM) and has a rep of being super comfortable & quiet.
I had planned on going with this tire, but as @HSKR R/T said above, I wanted a beefier looking tire, so went with a 285/60R20 (33.5") Bridgestone Dueler AT Ascent (which does also make a 41lb 275/60R20).

I had the firestone destination at2 on my gladiator and LOVED them..i was bummed they didn’t have them in my ram size with an E rating.

I can also second the bridgestone dueler at ascent as good tires. Im running them right now and they’ve been wonderful.

 

[Ready Go]

I had the firestone destination at2 on my gladiator and LOVED them..i was bummed they didn’t have them in my ram size with an E rating.

I can also second the bridgestone dueler at ascent as good tires. Im running them right now and they’ve been wonderful.

You are who I was thinking of in my comment..and I too would have gotten the AT2, if they had a 285/60, but I'm perfectly happy with the Ascents also, like you

 

[PurpleRT]

I will always suggest doing the control arms even with a 2” lift some skip that step to save some money and some have had those balljoints go bye bye and cost them way more in repairs then $200 control arms. The Mopar 2” off-road CA are less then $200 last time I checked… worth the extra effort and upfront cost. Obviously there’s beefier options out there depending on what you would like to spend. I personally went w/ Readylifts CA as a happy medium between wanting something beefier than OEM but not quite the cost of some of the more expensive options like CORE etc.


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[mardigan]

I will always suggest doing the control arms even with a 2” lift some skip that step to save some money and some have had those balljoints go bye bye and cost them way more in repairs then $200 control arms. The Mopar 2” off-road CA are less then $200 last time I checked… worth the extra effort and upfront cost. Obviously there’s beefier options out there depending on what you would like to spend. I personally went w/ Readylifts CA as a happy medium between wanting something beefier than OEM but not quite the cost of some of the more expensive options like CORE etc.


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Thanks so much gents, super helpful. Any other UCA recommendations? I don't mind spending money for a good result---my motivation would be maintaining ride quality, though if I can get additional benefits by upgrading UCA, then all the better. (I'm quite ignorant in the UCA space) BDS references their UCAs using "Factory style rubber bushings for long lasting, maintenance-free operation," in contrast to other manufacturers using Urethane. For UCA's I probably am not worried about cheapest, but also don't need hard core off road series... Thanks again for any thoughts

 

[mardigan]

Also, while I'm benefitting from yal's expertise.... wondering if you have any comments on this post and the embedded video (Eibach leveling kit)

Post in thread 'Eibach pro truck stage 2 R'

Jun 10, 2025

Man what an awesome setup this is. Definitely the best entry level suspension system out there. Comes complete with front and rear suspension upgrades, easy to install thanks to the pre assembled coilovers and easy to adjust height with the threaded body!

Ride is much better over factory (you really notice the difference when you hit bumps)

Softer all around, better than the bilstein 5100s. Give it a little longer and this will be the go to setup like the 5100s used to be. This is a 5100 on steroids. Better handing over stock with the digressive valving like the bilstein but what the...

• LaramieMarryme

Specifically the video on the Eibach package--and its potential advantages in ride quality over Bilstein 5100's. (I recognize the cost points are radically different, but I'm looking to get the best 2-3 leveling result which maximizes ride quality.) Have to say I found this video intriguing... Thanks for any thoughts

 

[PurpleRT]

Off the top of my head without going overkill you have Rough Country, Readylift, also heard of KSP mentioned before but don’t remember reading anyone with first hand experience using them. I think RC uses rubber bushing as oppose to poly but don’t quote me on that. Also plan on changing those front endlinks.. stock usually don’t last long… Suspension Maxx for those. Change your swaybar bushing while your’e at it (moog or energy susp), and if budget allows Hellwig rear swaybar in the rear w/ Core 4x4 endlinks.


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[PurpleRT]

The Eibach package looks promising no first hand experience using them. I stuck w/ 5100s since thats what my 4th gen had on them and I loved the ride quality and Eibach didn’t have an option available then and the price difference is quite enough.


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[Ready Go]

Also, while I'm benefitting from yal's expertise.... wondering if you have any comments on this post and the embedded video (Eibach leveling kit)

Post in thread 'Eibach pro truck stage 2 R'

Jun 10, 2025

Man what an awesome setup this is. Definitely the best entry level suspension system out there. Comes complete with front and rear suspension upgrades, easy to install thanks to the pre assembled coilovers and easy to adjust height with the threaded body!

Ride is much better over factory (you really notice the difference when you hit bumps)

Softer all around, better than the bilstein 5100s. Give it a little longer and this will be the go to setup like the 5100s used to be. This is a 5100 on steroids. Better handing over stock with the digressive valving like the bilstein but what the...

• LaramieMarryme

Specifically the video on the Eibach package--and its potential advantages in ride quality over Bilstein 5100's. (I recognize the cost points are radically different, but I'm looking to get the best 2-3 leveling result which maximizes ride quality.) Have to say I found this video intriguing... Thanks for any thoughts

I have the basic Eibach Pro-Truck struts & shocks on my Larry..and they are great riding, handling, and inexpensive. They have digressive valving (like Bilsteins, but a bit softer than Bilsteins), so handling is a bit better than ride overall, but very closely balanced. These were great for OEM wheels/tires, but insufficient for heavier 285/60R20s that I just recently put on (as I knew they would be).
I had strongly considered the Eibach COs & Stage2R rears (~$1650) because they are Linear valved, so should be slightly better ride than handling, but also close..but ultimately threw my wallet at Fox 2.5 PE DSCs (~$3100) to be able to really dial in the ride & handling.
I think if you went with the Eibach COs you'd be very happy. They are easily adjustable for any ride height you want (2-3"), and have good comfort & handling.
gomango392 can get you a discount on them..he's TK at HammerBuilt.com

 

[mardigan]

Off the top of my head without going overkill you have Rough Country, Readylift, also heard of KSP mentioned before but don’t remember reading anyone with first hand experience using them. I think RC uses rubber bushing as oppose to poly but don’t quote me on that. Also plan on changing those front endlinks.. stock usually don’t last long… Suspension Maxx for those. Change your swaybar bushing while your’e at it (moog or energy susp), and if budget allows Hellwig rear swaybar in the rear w/ Core 4x4 endlinks.


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Thanks for thoughts, would you mind educating me on the endlink references you made?

 

[Ready Go]

I just got a pair of Core4x4 endlinks. Nice quality pieces.
These are +1" (12.25" center hole to center hole) in Charcoal color.
They have a steel center ball and split poly cups..zero bind, yet low NVH.

 

[PurpleRT]

2 Inch Leveled Sway Bar Links 2019+ RAM 1500 with 19 MM Sway Bar Nut SupsensionMAXX

2 Inch Leveled Sway Bar Links 2019+ RAM 1500 with 19 MM Sway Bar Nut SupsensionMAXXSuspensionMAXX Sway Bar End Links - Tighten Your Handling, Extend Your Suspension Life. Your sway bar is only as good as its connection points.Our Sway Bar End Links are built tough to eliminate flex, reduce body...

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Or

Stock Sway Bar Links 2021+ RAM 1500 with 21mm Sway Bar Nut SupsensionMAXX

Stock Sway Bar Links 2021+ RAM 1500 with 21mm Sway Bar Nut SuspensionMAXX Sway Bar End Links - Tighten Your Handling, Extend Your Suspension Life. Your sway bar is only as good as its connection points.Our Sway Bar End Links are built tough to eliminate flex, reduce body roll, and restore...

www.suspensionmaxx.com

I run the core 4x4 7 piece town series… probably overkill for just DD duties but I was already there and wanted to upgrade over the flimsy stock bars and didn’t need wanna go the heim joint route. I was on a budget lol. You don’t have to upgrade the rear setup except the swaybar/endlinks at a minimal.

7pc Town Series Rear Fixed Length Control Arm, Panhard/Track Bar Kit

core4x4.com

Depends how far you wanna go but the rear end links on this page.

https://core4x4.com/shop/vehicle/dodge-ram-1500-156.

Hellwig rear swaybar. I think most of us on here stuck w/ the 7/8 but the 1” is also a good option if the budget allows.. price match and find the cheapest place to get it. No one of here ever regretting going with the Hellwig on here as far as I know.

Search by Vehicle - Hellwig Products

www.hellwigproducts.com

As the old saying goes buy once cry once but do it within your budget. I’m a firm believer in waiting longer if you have to gather parts (either time or money) and doing the install at once instead of piece by piece. I was already working in the rear swapping springs/shocks so I figured might as well treat Ol Girl to some core 4x4 goodies and hellwig swaybar.