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This^
If the fan comes on (eventually) and the temperature immediately starts dropping, it's working.
I don't look at the coolant temperature so much as the temperature gauge. If it's riding in the center, it's okay.
Need more info. Where is that connection? And are there threads cut into that flange? It might not need a nut.
Generally, nothing should come out. But if that's after the rear O2 sensor, it doesn't matter. It'll just be louder than it should be, and probably not by much. There will always be...
Unless the shocks are somehow adjustable, it's fine. I have some Snap-on sockets that fit on the top of shocks and I don't know how many I've installed by holding the wrench while spinning the shaft with an air ratchet.
Mine isn't power, but sometimes it sticks. And I also have a bed cover. Try locking it, pushing in hard, then unlocking and opening. Sometimes it takes more than one try. It happens about once a month, then behaves a while. So far I haven't had to take a pry bar to the cover.
This makes no sense.
The turbine will only turn if the truck is moving. The truck moves when it uses fuel. Trying to generate while cruising on flats will increase the load on the engine and use more fuel. Where's the gain? It might function as regenerative braking when decelerating or coasting...
I wouldn't stress over that. If it was running full synthetic oil, 10000 is not really overdoing it. And sometimes data entry people miss stuff and it doesn't find its way to carfax. It happened to me with my wife's car.
I kinda doubt you'll be in 8th gear very much when pulling a trailer. I know with my 3.21 gears and an empty truck, it will still downshift to 7th on the freeway on a 4% grade. And then usually it will upshift again. Then downshift. Until I hit tow/haul and it stops hunting.
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