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It’s a Stupid Tax. Some people who don’t know cars and have never seen a tapered lug nut will gladly pay $80 to not think about it. I even read from a wheel co’ that the clamp force is fine for maximum payload, etc.
Someone be along shortly to disagree.
There is a website with a calculator that will show you what they should be. Google it, I’m on my phone. I assume you know it is a load range E tire and not a 40year old “10 ply”, unless of course you have G60s on your car yet.;)
Same, was good on my gmc. I’ve posted in another thread but could be posted again here, that I emailed sumo and they said feel free to cut a taper/cone/other shape to soften the initial hit. I confess I haven’t gotten a rountuit yet. On the list..
Does the auto style overheat in 4hi mode? I.e. not running the clutches often. Might simply replace and use locked in 4hi?
Sorry, no help on the wiring. Good luck. Tradesman is no 4auto also.
As mentioned, splitting the unit is acceptable, and keeping your electronics. Mine sounded like bearings also, but was reflashed because of out of sync phases(?), so that may be a possibility if your mechanic hasn’t absolutely confirmed the bearings.
The hub bore is realistically the same, and almost all manufacturers use OEM wheels that are lug centric. Hub rings are not needed with tapered lug nuts.
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