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Ok, what’s the secret storage?

Just an aside, I put a tune in a 3.6 impala. Worlds better awake and unrestricted. I used an obscure guy named overkill, but not that Overkill.

Installed a cheap tonneau cover, I guess a little too cheap. They got the front clamps at the back end of the trifold front section, not the front corners of the section. So, the front is sprung up. Oh well hopefully keeps the luggage dry.

I have the Roar pedal unit. It works good for remapping the curve, and helps some with lag. But the lag is a function of the curve, so reducing lag only comes by ramping up the curve. I honestly use it on the lowest setting. I had another that I forgot that had a bad rep for the dash lights when...

I ordered mine with the standard bench for a 6th seat, but it would have to be a kid to use available legroom. It’s always down, and the console is big enough. I don’t keep crap in my truck, except napkins and a phone holder.

Didn’t get in before the ceasefire, but I work at an electronics shop and we cut our own LED housings apart and resolder the boards to try to fix them. Remember lead is bad for you? It is the best for solder. Well companies have been using crap solder for 20 years now. How long did the first...

You’re not gonna want 80 psi? You can’t load enough to need that. I have the same, I run 35 for the ride. When I towed, I might go to 50 on the rears. There are charts and formulas to determine what you need. 80 is the max for the tire, not what your particular vehicle needs.

I’m not sure the year makes a difference, but if you give the size you have in mind some people might give good recommendations?

Sounds like noise canceling is off now. Anybody sure if the tradesman needs to be unplugged? Could it be reversed polarity? I thought the exhaust was broken on the way home. If someone could point me to a link about this, I’d appreciate it, thanks!

Alpine speakers going in today. Tradesman in sig line. Amp next if needed. OEM was scratchy from new and getting worse.

I don’t remember that part being VIN programmed, as I don’t know if there is electronics in the case, but I could be wrong. Ask around to find out if it is; if not, ebay.

Yes, perfectly normal, and properly designed. Regardless of knob position, if the headlights are off, as shown by the green light in the tach, the dash is full bright to be bright enough for sunlight. You also can see another automatic action of the wipers turning on headlights.

This is normal. The truck thinks it needs full bright for the sunlight.

Where is this configuration, and can it be changed? I would like to see cargo (motos) driving down bumpy roads.

Small price to pay for just keeping it clean and lubed. Good job hunting up the deal.

Ram uses tapered lug nuts, meaning it is lug centered. No rings needed. “If” you somehow found flat faced lug type rims, .3mm is less than the wheel runout tolerance. Mounted 106mm bore on my last truck, no rings needed with OEM lug nuts. Someone be along shortly to say the opposite.

I’ve never used them on big bore wheels since 1990; they’re not necessary.

You would want and be perfectly fine with the “P” tires, but I have seen shops that won’t mount them on trucks with a door sticker calling for C or higher, even with a load rating well above axle rating. About half you can convince to actually look at the numbers to understand, the rest are...

I have these also. Had ice this past week, and mine are a stiffer carcass E range, but I survived. Not a 3 peak tire, but good mileage tradeoff.

$200 seems awfully cheap for that. Is that for a lunchbox locker, or a replacement carrier? RTV a solid rubber grommet in the electric pass thru hole might be the only thing of note. If you never press the dash button, the bcu would probably never know. A simple dash warning would be the result.