Truck completely discharged battery in 30 hours

[00 Trans Ram]

TLDR - Put in a wireless charging pad. Killed battery. Took several tries to get battery back. Now it works (for now). Can a wireless charger plugged into the USB-C charging port under the radio discharge a battery in 30 hours?

It's a 2025 1500 Limited with 15k miles. Everything was fine except the wireless chargers didn't work. Saw a few posts talking about replacing with another qi charger, so I got this one https://a.co/d/0j1KGrWs. Plugged it into the USB-C charging (not the 1 or 2 communication) port and it worked like a charm. Kept up with charging the phone during normal usage (Android Auto, Waze, Spotify all running). Even added a percent charge every 30 min or so.

Left it plugged in Sunday evening and didn't drive Monday. Tuesday morning, truck is completely dead. Won't unlock doors, no lights, nothing. Check battery. Battery is at 3.4v. Tried using the jump start box. Nope. Put it on a charger, but charger wouldn't even begin charging it.

This morning, figure I'm going to go get a new battery, try to jump it with the jump box again, and it works! Drive an hour and the alternator is reading ~12.2v most of the time, with occasional jumps to 14.1 (seems odd behavior?). Stop the truck, it won't start again. Put it on the charger and the charger works now, reading 10.5v.

Leave it charging for 3 hours, go to drive again, it won't start. Use jump box, starts up. Drive an hour and it's constantly 13.4-14.1 charging (normal, right?). Stop to run an errand, come back, it starts right up. Get home, measure voltage, battery is reading 12.3v now.

Would that wireless charger have run down the battery like that?

 

[Paul B]

Maybe quit using the charger, if it doesn't go dead you have your answer.
That's what I'd try.
Paul B

 

[Richard320]

I wonder if the charger doesn't also trigger a bunch of other parasitic draws? By itself it shouldn't pull enough amperage to drain a battery that fast.

 

[00 Trans Ram]

Maybe quit using the charger, if it doesn't go dead you have your answer.
That's what I'd try.
Paul B

Yep - pulled it out as soon as I saw it was dead. Starting to work again . . . but I can't figure out how it would have drained the battery. First off, the USB should have been off. Secondly, even if it was on, I can't imagine it pulling enough electricity (even if it was charging a phone!) to discharge a car battery.

Weird.

 

[Rebellion is Duty]

'2025' is key there. Weird battery events are a common tale.

 

[00 Trans Ram]

'2025' is key there. Weird battery events are a common tale.

Yeah, I'm starting to see that.

 

[70runner]

If you can, check the truck for parasitic draw w/o the wireless charging pad, then with the pad. Possible you might already have an issue that the pad aggravated.

 

[Ripper]

Yep - pulled it out as soon as I saw it was dead. Starting to work again . . . but I can't figure out how it would have drained the battery. First off, the USB should have been off. Secondly, even if it was on, I can't imagine it pulling enough electricity (even if it was charging a phone!) to discharge a car battery.

Weird.

I thought my 26 had a similar issue. Locked the truck and went inside, it was dark out. Went outside a bit later like 45 Minutes or so and thought I saw lights on in the cab. Went over to look and sure enough the illuminated borders around the USB ports were on. Figured that was not a good thing. Got on my computer and did some research and found out the USB ports are left on for 60 minutes after you shut off ignition to allow extra charging for anything left plugged in. I also found various reports of the USB ports remaining on longer or never shutting off. Cycling the ignition solved the issue is some cases.

You might want to check and see if you are experiencing this issue. My other thoughts were if the USB remains active what other modules or systems might be remaining active leading to a discharged battery.

 

[00 Trans Ram]

If you can, check the truck for parasitic draw w/o the wireless charging pad, then with the pad. Possible you might already have an issue that the pad aggravated.

Well, the good news is that it wasn't the charging pad.

The bad news is that it wasn't the charging pad. Just went back out this afternoon and it was completely dead again. Nothing plugged in. Jump started it and it set off the alarm.

Got it running, then noticed that the door locks (and unlocks) won't work. Neither the switches on the door nor the key fob. Only pulling the handle from the inside or the physical key on the driver's door.

Also, the 4wd was out The light above 2wd was dark and it wouldn't switch to 4wd at all (either by pressing buttons or switching to Sport or Off Road driving modes). And the auto-stop/start button was non-functional (though, this is a good thing).

Taking it to dealership tomorrow.

 

[00 Trans Ram]

Took it to dealer. They checked battery and alternator - no problems. They found a TSB for a flash update for the BCM due to battery draining. Performed the update. Let's see if it works.

TSB 08-380-25

08-380-25 Service Bulletin/Repair Instructions - OEMDTC

Flash: Body Control Module (BCM) Updates Customers may experience one or more of the following: ● The battery is draining from interior lighting. ● Lock/unlock may not work on the key FOB. This bulletin involves inspecting and possibly reprogramming the BCM with the latest available software.

oemdtc.com

 

[Ram1500OwnerMaybe]

Wow, when was that released?
Unable to open the web site.
Keep the thread updated.
If this does resolve the issue it would be HUGE news.

 

[kapinallinen2]

Wow, when was that released?

Manufacturer Communication Number: 08-380-25

TSB/Document Date: 2025-11-26
edit: actual date was 11-21-25

 

[00 Trans Ram]

Let me see if I can attach the actual file...

 

[00 Trans Ram]

Just an update on this - everything is still working properly. Truck hasn't discharged since the update. I even plugged that charging pad back in and it works fine. Looks like the problem is fixed.

 

[Ram991.2]

'2025' is key there. Weird battery events are a common tale.

Yeah, I'm starting to see that.

My ‘25 limited bricked on Thursday after running perfectly up til then. Had to jump it to get it started and it threw a ton of warning lights. Couldn’t get it to take a charge no matter how long I drove it. Friday morning after jumping it again I drove it straight to the dealer. Dealer service was great, they replaced both batteries, did the trailer controller recall, a few software updates and cleared the warnings all under warranty. Runs like a champ again. Tech said they are seeing quite a few of these right now. He said with all the electronics on the trucks now three years is probably all you’ll get out of the batteries. These first ones are failing faster due to all the time they sat from production to purchase.

 

[UnloosedChewtoy]

My ‘25 limited bricked on Thursday after running perfectly up til then. Had to jump it to get it started and it threw a ton of warning lights. Couldn’t get it to take a charge no matter how long I drove it. Friday morning after jumping it again I drove it straight to the dealer. Dealer service was great, they replaced both batteries, did the trailer controller recall, a few software updates and cleared the warnings all under warranty. Runs like a champ again. Tech said they are seeing quite a few of these right now. He said with all the electronics on the trucks now three years is probably all you’ll get out of the batteries. These first ones are failing faster due to all the time they sat from production to purchase.

As I've said in many threads now, its not just the electronics: battery manufacturers are putting out low quality units compared to pre-COVID times. Even in the same cars that used to get 5+ years out of batteries, we're seeing more reports of failures in months to a couple years.

Odyssey, Optima... even the big names are not immune and having problems.

Before I bought my 2025, I can see in the service records that the previous owner had had the batteries replaced under warranty. The moment the current batteries give me the slightest sign of weakness, they're getting replaced with East Penn batteries, which I've found to be the ones that have fallen the least in quality, or maybe I'll give Full River batteries a try. Full River units are made in China, and East Penn made in USA, but the Full River units seem to be a strong preference for many in the off road crowd.

 

[Rebellion is Duty]

This is true. My previous two trucks used up batteries fast. Two years was about the maximum for the batteries. Those two trucks were different manufacturers. One was a '19, and it was a little better. The '21, horrible. The '14 which was another manufacturer, lasted almost six years.

Just like what is being stated here, everything was fine, and then it wasn't. No signs of battery drain. The Christmas tree instrument panel would just appear.

I tend to agree that it's a combination of excessive electronics and poor quality batteries. Companies used to be ashamed if their product failed. Now poor quality is a business model.

 

[river rat]

Just replaced the battery in my 2020, went with Interstate AGM. Costco has them for $180.

 

[Ripper]

Just like what is being stated here, everything was fine, and then it wasn't. No signs of battery drain. The Christmas tree instrument panel would just appear.

My experiences with AGM Batteries is they tend to fail catastrophically. No warning and bang they are DOA. I have experienced this in an old 09 Chrysler Town & Country and in my 20 Wrangler. Also experienced this a few times in my boat. My SOP is to keep a charged jump pack in all of my vehicles. On my boat I have a solar panel battery tender which has been a life saver. Especially when the cover leaks and it rains and the bilge pump ends up kicking on a few times.

 

[RiffWrath]

I need to periodically push the upper glove box closed to actuate the switch. I notice the light flashing. Rear usb ports have been disconnected as well.