Rear Brake Drum Issue

[fawgygeezer]

Hi, I am doing front and back brakes on my 2017 Ram 1500 Sport Night Edition for the first time. About 55k miles. Front went fine had to spray with Kroil penetrating oil and bang with a hammer but rotor did come off. On the back I can get either rotor off. sprayed with Kroil oil, hit with hammer and turned the star piece to release the parking brakes on the back side of the rotors. Driver side turned down passenger side up. Also tried the bolt and nut method with a washer. Bent the bolt from torquing so hard and the end of the bolt flatened out so I had to cut it off. Any tips or suggestions greatly appreciated. Also I live in Minnesota so lots of rust from the salt.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Hi, I am doing front and back brakes on my 2017 Ram 1500 Sport Night Edition for the first time. About 55k miles. Front went fine had to spray with Kroil penetrating oil and bang with a hammer but rotor did come off. On the back I can get either rotor off. sprayed with Kroil oil, hit with hammer and turned the star piece to release the parking brakes on the back side of the rotors. Driver side turned down passenger side up. Also tried the bolt and nut method with a washer. Bent the bolt from torquing so hard and the end of the bolt flatened out so I had to cut it off. Any tips or suggestions greatly appreciated. Also I live in Minnesota so lots of rust from the salt.

You have a classic, not a 5th gen. Try loosening the parking brake star screw further. Also, not sure if it's the same on 4th gens, but make sure you have the takes in service mode

 

[fawgygeezer]

You have a classic, not a 5th gen. Try loosening the parking brake star screw further. Also, not sure if it's the same on 4th gens, but make sure you have the takes in service mode

Takes in service mode? Brakes in service mode? How? Thanks.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Takes in service mode? Brakes in service mode? How? Thanks.

Like I said, not sure if the 4th gens need it. It's because of electric parking brake.

 

[kapinallinen2]

Takes in service mode? Brakes in service mode? How? Thanks.

Looks like you have the old fashioned cable setup.
The 5th gen uses an electric actuator for the parking brake and if not placed in service mode it will extend all the way and mess up the caliber.

 

[fawgygeezer]

Looks like you have the old fashioned cable setup.
The 5th gen uses an electric actuator for the parking brake and if not placed in service mode it will extend all the way and mess up the caliber.

I know I'm in the wrong forums but thanks for the answers. Any idea how many times the star wheel needs to turn? I've turned it enough that I can freely spin rotor/axle.

 

[kapinallinen2]

I know I'm in the wrong forums but thanks for the answers. Any idea how many times the star wheel needs to turn? I've turned it enough that I can freely spin rotor/axle.

I would turn it till it did not turn any more, backing out the adjuster all the way. Your drums have most likely worn down quite a bit creating a shoulder that is hanging up on the shoes.
Just to clarify, do the drums move in and out at all or are they stuck to the axle? If stuck to the axle, then more Kroil, hammer and heat.

he lives in the rust belt.

 

[Eighty]

Moved to 4th Gen Rams forum.

 

[koren388]

I had the same fight on my Silverado. What finally worked was soaking it overnight with PB Blaster (Kroil is good too), then hitting the rotor hat all around with a decent sized hammer while keeping a little tension with the bolts. Also, make sure the parking brake shoes are backed off enough - sometimes they still catch even if you think they’re loose. Worst case, a little heat with a torch around the hub can help break the rust bond.

 

[fawgygeezer]

I would turn it till it did not turn any more, backing out the adjuster all the way. Your drums have most likely worn down quite a bit creating a shoulder that is hanging up on the shoes.
Just to clarify, do the drums move in and out at all or are they stuck to the axle? If stuck to the axle, then more Kroil, hammer and heat.

he lives in the rust belt.

Drums on both sides wiggle a little.

 

[Ccroce]

I’m having a similar issue but I do have a 5th gen.

1. I put the truck in brake service mode
2. I took the rear wheel off
3. I removed the retaining screw (well, I actually had to drill the head off it after it snapped my t30 bit, but it should be free)
4. I sprayed wd-40 specialist penetrant in all the rotor holes, around the hub, and around the back side where the rotor meets the hub
5. I banged the hell out of it with a hammer and mallet for 2 hours, alternating banging, turning rotor, spraying penetrant

Now it’s pitch black, pouring rain, with the truck on jack stands and I have work in the morning. I’ve done at least 7 brake jobs on various vehicles and have never had this much trouble breaking a rotor free.

Pry bar? Nope.
Hammer? Nope.
Penetrant? Nope.

And the 5th gen rotors don’t have the threaded holes to put a bolt in to break the rotor free from the hub.

I’m at a loss. Before I get a freaking sledgehammer or try to push it out from the caliper mount with a long bolt, does anyone have any suggestions?

Thank you.

 

[kapinallinen2]

I’m having a similar issue but I do have a 5th gen.

1. I put the truck in brake service mode
2. I took the rear wheel off
3. I removed the retaining screw (well, I actually had to drill the head off it after it snapped my t30 bit, but it should be free)
4. I sprayed wd-40 specialist penetrant in all the rotor holes, around the hub, and around the back side where the rotor meets the hub
5. I banged the hell out of it with a hammer and mallet for 2 hours, alternating banging, turning rotor, spraying penetrant

Now it’s pitch black, pouring rain, with the truck on jack stands and I have work in the morning. I’ve done at least 7 brake jobs on various vehicles and have never had this much trouble breaking a rotor free.

Pry bar? Nope.
Hammer? Nope.
Penetrant? Nope.

And the 5th gen rotors don’t have the threaded holes to put a bolt in to break the rotor free from the hub.

I’m at a loss. Before I get a freaking sledgehammer or try to push it out from the caliper mount with a long bolt, does anyone have any suggestions?

Thank you.

This should work on the rears also.
I used a propane torch to get the front rotors off. They were not budging with a hammer or a pry-bar.
Pointed at the rotor, flame heating it up, about 5 minutes later the rotor just popped off.
What is holding the rotor to the hub, is rust buildup at the mating surfaces. Heating the rotor will expand it and release it from the hub.

 

[Ccroce]

This should work on the rears also.
I used a propane torch to get the front rotors off. They were not budging with a hammer or a pry-bar.
Pointed at the rotor, flame heating it up, about 5 minutes later the rotor just popped off.
What is holding the rotor to the hub, is rust buildup at the mating surfaces. Heating the rotor will expand it and release it from the hub.

Unfortunately, it didn’t work. Unbelievably, I still can’t get this rotor off. May have to tuck tail and take it in. Silly.

 

[kapinallinen2]

Unfortunately, it didn’t work. Unbelievably, I still can’t get this rotor off. May have to tuck tail and take it in. Silly.

Interesting.

Obviously the caliber bracket has to come off also, just had this picture from the bearing hub replacement.

 

[Ccroce]

Interesting.
View attachment 209441
Obviously the caliber bracket has to come off also, just had this picture from the bearing hub replacement.

Thanks, did all that except wire brush. Scraped around with a flathead in between the rotor and hub and drenched it in penetrant last night and just hit it again. Heat didn’t work but it’s also been cold up here in the northeast. Maybe just frozen. I did expect to have more movement from it than just a little jiggle after 2 days of working it. Will probably put the caliper and wheel back on this rotor that I beat the absolute **** out of and bring it to the shop tomorrow.

 

[kapinallinen2]

Thanks, did all that except wire brush. Scraped around with a flathead in between the rotor and hub and drenched it in penetrant last night and just hit it again. Heat didn’t work but it’s also been cold up here in the northeast. Maybe just frozen. I did expect to have more movement from it than just a little jiggle after 2 days of working it. Will probably put the caliper and wheel back on this rotor that I beat the absolute **** out of and bring it to the shop tomorrow.

Oh, you are up there, the land of road salt.
Been to Mass, New Hampshire multiple times to visit the kids grandparents in Fitchburg MA for holidays.
The winters and road treatments are so much like back in Finland, everything just rusts.

 

[Ccroce]

Oh, you are up there, the land of road salt.
Been to Mass, New Hampshire multiple times to visit the kids grandparents in Fitchburg MA for holidays.
The winters and road treatments are so much like back in Finland, everything just rusts.

Sure does. Had to get the undercoating after the truck’s first winter. We are relatively close to Fitchburg. That salt slurry they put on the roads up here really chews everything up. These trucks should come with anti seize on the rotors or at least those threaded holes if they’re this susceptible to rust and impossible to get off. If I knew it would have been such a problem I would have put some anti seize on it years ago.