5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

CV Axle movement\noise

Morenar

Ram Guru
Joined
Dec 4, 2019
Messages
528
Reaction score
460
Points
63
Age
49
Location
West Central Florida
Was just working under the truck and decided to take a look at the CV axle and noticed this excessive movement noise. Does this sound\look normal?

Passenger Side

Driver Side
 
Mine are like that. I spray penetrantating oil once a month where the stub goes in, hopefully that keeps the rust at bay. I'd like to drill a hole and install a grease zerk instead
 
Mine are like that. I spray penetrantating oil once a month where the stub goes in, hopefully that keeps the rust at bay. I'd like to drill a hole and install a grease zerk instead
Thought about doing the same with zerk fittings.
 
This is the one design flaw I've found in these trucks where I can unequivocally say Ram dropped the ball hard. The CV axle is slid onto that passenger side output shaft with no assembly grease, and no boot to seal the joint. The drivers side is done similary but easier to fix. That passenger output shaft also doesn't just slide out like it does on the drivers side for easy replacement. Over time salt\dirt\water all get into that joint and corrode and wear down the splines until you get the play you're seeing. Eventually it will get bad enough to vibrate on the highway, and make a clinkclinkclink noise at lower speeds. The fix at the dealer is a brand new front differential...which will see the same problem again as they didn't remedy the fix at all. You'll probably be ok for now, but expect it will keep degrading until the noise\vibration is bad enough to bother you, or you'll be in 4wd at some point and the splines will strip out and you'll end up essentially in 2wd with some terrible sounds from the cv joint.

If you search on amazon you can find kits that include new bearings and a replacement inner shaft for the passenger side (the kit I found said for 4th gen rams but I confirmed it did in fact fit my 2019 5th gen 1500). More importantly though this kit also comes with a boot to seal the joint AND also only cost about 125$ (Canadian $). The job isn't terrible to do, but you want to replace both that inner output shaft and replace the CV. Don't try to re-use the CV as the worn down splines will damage the new shaft splines. Pack the two with good bearing grease and socket the new CV on with the rubber boot to seal it and you should have a very long term fix in place for under 150$ total and a few hours in the driveway. I've done 2 of these fixes now (my truck and a friends 2016) and posted details on another forum about it. Here's a pic of the new parts in place and the boot that protects it:
20250616_160053.jpg
20250616_162628.jpg
 
This is the one design flaw I've found in these trucks where I can unequivocally say Ram dropped the ball hard. The CV axle is slid onto that passenger side output shaft with no assembly grease, and no boot to seal the joint. The drivers side is done similary but easier to fix. That passenger output shaft also doesn't just slide out like it does on the drivers side for easy replacement. Over time salt\dirt\water all get into that joint and corrode and wear down the splines until you get the play you're seeing. Eventually it will get bad enough to vibrate on the highway, and make a clinkclinkclink noise at lower speeds. The fix at the dealer is a brand new front differential...which will see the same problem again as they didn't remedy the fix at all. You'll probably be ok for now, but expect it will keep degrading until the noise\vibration is bad enough to bother you, or you'll be in 4wd at some point and the splines will strip out and you'll end up essentially in 2wd with some terrible sounds from the cv joint.

If you search on amazon you can find kits that include new bearings and a replacement inner shaft for the passenger side (the kit I found said for 4th gen rams but I confirmed it did in fact fit my 2019 5th gen 1500). More importantly though this kit also comes with a boot to seal the joint AND also only cost about 125$ (Canadian $). The job isn't terrible to do, but you want to replace both that inner output shaft and replace the CV. Don't try to re-use the CV as the worn down splines will damage the new shaft splines. Pack the two with good bearing grease and socket the new CV on with the rubber boot to seal it and you should have a very long term fix in place for under 150$ total and a few hours in the driveway. I've done 2 of these fixes now (my truck and a friends 2016) and posted details on another forum about it. Here's a pic of the new parts in place and the boot that protects it:
View attachment 204051
View attachment 204052
Thank you so much for this write-up! I'm preparing myself to do this job but I'm so confused because I can't find the repair kit specifically for 2019 DT style Ram for or the kit that you bought?
 
Question for those that have replaced stub shafts. I see there are bearings that come with the passenger side, but I don’t see any for the drivers side. Is there any sort of bearing that gets replaced on the drivers side? Mine has a lot of play and I can’t really tell if it’s between the cv and stub shaft, or the stub shaft itself, which is why I’m asking if maybe there is a bearing that is causing the movement.
 
Hey everyone, sorry the notifications didn't work on this thread for some reason.

Here's an amazon.com link for the shaft kit I used: Amazon.com: Flynsu Front Differential Axle Intermediate Shaft Kit Replacement for 2012-2021 Dodge Ram 1500 Inner Shaft 68146594AB, 68146594AA, 68257420AF, 68257421AF, 68257422AF, 722N695BKA : Automotive

Here's an amazon.CA link for my Canadian brothers and sisters, since amazon is terrible about letting people click different country links and I'm sure some Canadians will find this too:

Don't worry that is says "classic" vs. new style. All the 1500's use the same part.

Drivers side does not have any bearings to replace, just the small removeable stub. The bearings on that side are part of the differentials internal assembly. The above kit also comes with a drivers side shaft (it's the smaller on in the parts photo). Hope that helps
 
Hey everyone, sorry the notifications didn't work on this thread for some reason.

Here's an amazon.com link for the shaft kit I used: Amazon.com: Flynsu Front Differential Axle Intermediate Shaft Kit Replacement for 2012-2021 Dodge Ram 1500 Inner Shaft 68146594AB, 68146594AA, 68257420AF, 68257421AF, 68257422AF, 722N695BKA : Automotive

Here's an amazon.CA link for my Canadian brothers and sisters, since amazon is terrible about letting people click different country links and I'm sure some Canadians will find this too:

Don't worry that is says "classic" vs. new style. All the 1500's use the same part.

Drivers side does not have any bearings to replace, just the small removeable stub. The bearings on that side are part of the differentials internal assembly. The above kit also comes with a drivers side shaft (it's the smaller on in the parts photo). Hope that helps
So when the drivers side stub shaft has play, the bearings that are in the differential don’t need to be replaced? Does the shaft just become that worn that it causes play? When doing just the drivers side is there fluid loss to be concerned about?
 
So when the drivers side stub shaft has play, the bearings that are in the differential don’t need to be replaced? Does the shaft just become that worn that it causes play? When doing just the drivers side is there fluid loss to be concerned about?
Drivers side is just a tiny stub that goes into the pumpkin and is made to be removed easy enough (unlike the passenger side that is more labor intensive). There is a seal around that stub that helps hold the fluid in, the kit I linked above has the replacement seals if yours leaks. I think it's entirely possible for internal differential damage to cause play, although it's probably alot less likely than the stub itself just being worn out at the CV end or tolerances internally. Mine does have a bit of play to it (drivers side), but not a ton. I would expect that is just due to the tolerances for a part like that. Because it's made to be removeable without any fasteners (it's not bolted into the diff) it can really only fit "so tightly", it's made to slide in and out to be replaced so I wouldn't expect it to fit with 0 play at all otherwise you would need to press it in and press it out with a tool, picture like a pilot bearing or similar "removeable part" that isn't fastened in but has 0 play. If it's wobbling enough to cause vibrations or you can hear it clinking I would consider removing it to inspect if it's worn at the CV joint side or the internal differential side. The link I posted to the kit above you'll see a large shaft and a smaller one to the right of it. The smaller one is the drivers side, so you can see how there's not much to it. The little locking ring that sits in the groove expands and helps hold the stub in place inside the differential, and also in the CV socket. Otherwise there really isn't anything applying force to it holding it in. If you jack up that side to remove the CV and stub there would probably be minimal fluid leakage (I've seen a couple oz at most come out), but you'll want a catch pan under it to be sure and you'll want to be ready to top the diff back up after the job is done (not a hard thing to do).

If you're still worried there may be differential internal issues I would jack your passenger wheel off the ground and turn the tire by hand. See if you can hear any grinding\droning coming from inside the diff. I've only had 1 front diff go bad (on a 2014). I have a video of what that sounds like and will try to host it on youtube and post here later on for reference. You can also do a drain of the front diff into a clean catch pan and look for metal particles or chunks. Differentials are pretty close tolerance pieces of machinery, if the bearings inside were so battered up that there was a concerning amount of play in your stub I suspect you'd already hear and see other warning signs first.

EDIT: Video link here, the sound was easier to hear on the passenger side (maybe due to the vibrations traveling down the axle tube) but it was defective guts in the pumpkin. It had full oil and no abuse, just bad luck. Dealer replaced the entire front diff under warranty at the time
2014 Ram 1500 Bad Front Diff
 
Last edited:
This is the one design flaw I've found in these trucks where I can unequivocally say Ram dropped the ball hard. The CV axle is slid onto that passenger side output shaft with no assembly grease, and no boot to seal the joint. The drivers side is done similary but easier to fix. That passenger output shaft also doesn't just slide out like it does on the drivers side for easy replacement. Over time salt\dirt\water all get into that joint and corrode and wear down the splines until you get the play you're seeing. Eventually it will get bad enough to vibrate on the highway, and make a clinkclinkclink noise at lower speeds. The fix at the dealer is a brand new front differential...which will see the same problem again as they didn't remedy the fix at all. You'll probably be ok for now, but expect it will keep degrading until the noise\vibration is bad enough to bother you, or you'll be in 4wd at some point and the splines will strip out and you'll end up essentially in 2wd with some terrible sounds from the cv joint.

If you search on amazon you can find kits that include new bearings and a replacement inner shaft for the passenger side (the kit I found said for 4th gen rams but I confirmed it did in fact fit my 2019 5th gen 1500). More importantly though this kit also comes with a boot to seal the joint AND also only cost about 125$ (Canadian $). The job isn't terrible to do, but you want to replace both that inner output shaft and replace the CV. Don't try to re-use the CV as the worn down splines will damage the new shaft splines. Pack the two with good bearing grease and socket the new CV on with the rubber boot to seal it and you should have a very long term fix in place for under 150$ total and a few hours in the driveway. I've done 2 of these fixes now (my truck and a friends 2016) and posted details on another forum about it. Here's a pic of the new parts in place and the boot that protects it:
View attachment 204051
View attachment 204052

Do you have an link for the CV as well?

Thank you for the write up


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Do you have an link for the CV as well?

Thank you for the write up


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The rebuild kit with the stub shafts I had to get off amazon because they don't seem to be regular stock at parts stores, the CV I bought was found at an Autozone, nothing special about them, should be pretty common to find.
 
Do you have an link for the CV as well?

Thank you for the write up


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CH-86010XTT
I just installed that part number on my 2020 last week. Removing the passenger side was incredibly difficult because it was so corroded. These CV scales are imported over OEM and are designed for lifted/leveled vehicles.
 
I just had a question with regards to the CVs you are using to repair these. Most of the listings that i find just say standard lift on the aftermarket parts, Ive asked and they told me it won't fit mine, I only have a 2019 DT Limited with the Air suspension and I just want to make sure I am getting the correct part unless I go down the genuine Mopar part road which is what they offer in Australia, that number is easy enough to find. Its going to be far cheaper to replace the importing it myself then the $2600 - $3000 they want just for a CV on one side let alone the intermediate shafts and the labour included. Mine is used for farm business and the shaft just slipped and ground without warning so I'd rather do it once to fix the crap design
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top