5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

2025 Ram 1500 Current Owners - Discussion, Feedback, and Problems

Bottom feeding/garbage Stellantis has outsourced many critical functions in the past couple of years.
I had the same issue -- their system still had the data for my 2019 Ram. Called the dealer, and they claim that my 2019 has been removed from my profile.
I hope the "new" American leadership can address some of these customer support issues.
 
ATTENTION: Approach Lighting: (At least for my issue, headlights not turning on with fob)
There’s a BCM update. My dealer did the update then restored settings and viola! it works.
Maybe that can also fix the approach proximity & battery issues.
 
Update:

Tow truck arrived and we used his booster pack to jump start the truck. It worked. My truck took an extra second and then started up. He disconnected the booster pack and my truck seemed totally fine.

So, the tow truck driver left and I went to drive it for a bit to let the batteries charge back up. The Voltmeter on my dash said the battery was at 14V. Cool.

I left my house and immediately got on the Interstate (onramp 1/2 a mile from my place), thinking some steady driving at a higher speed would be the best way to charge the batteries.

My Voltmeter was still showing 14V. After a couple of miles on the Interstate, it was showing something like 13.1 V.

Shortly thereafter, a TON of warning lights all illuminated on my instrument cluster. I was approaching the next exit down from my house, so I got off there.

The engine was still running.

When I stepped on the brakes to slow down for the offramp, I discovered that I had almost no brakes. All power boost function was gone. The only braking I had was whatever manual hydraulic force I was generating by mashing the brake pedal hard. But, that did slow me down. I did not rear end anyone. Thankfully, I was driving much more conservatively than I normally do.

At the end of the offramp, I was able to go right without stopping, so I did.

Then I came to a stop light and had to stop. The engine was still running. I was the 2nd car in line at an intersection where the road I was on was 6 or 7 lanes wide. The cross street was a 4-lane. It was 5:00 rush hour traffic.

I thought "maybe if I shift it into Park and then back to D that will reset something with the brakes."

Be smart. Do not be like me. As soon as I shifted into Park, I felt some kind of motor in the shift knob assisting the last little bit from R into P. Once it was in P it would not let me turn the knob back out of P.

So, now I am sitting at a light in the middle lane of rush hour traffic and I cannot move. FUUUDDGEE! Only I didn't say fudge.

I thought "well, it can't get any worse. Let's see if I can turn it off and then start it again."

Nope. I mean, I was able to turn it off, but there was no starting it again. I think the dash Voltmeter was now showing 6 or 7V.

So, I turned on my hazard lights and called 911. They said help was on the way and hung up. Then I called Stellantis again to arrange for another tow truck.

While I was on the phone with Stellantis, my truck battery fully died and my hazard lights shut off.

I was a sitting duck.

At that point, I prepared to abandon ship. I was just waiting for the light to turn red so the traffic around me stopped and I was going to get out and go stand on the corner. That was when the cops finally showed up.

So, eventually I got it towed to the dealer, dropped off after hours of course. Now I just have to wait until tomorrow to see what's going to happen.

Fudge.

I'm guessing it must have a dead alternator. Assuming so, any thoughts on whether the batteries will be okay if they just replace the alternator and charge the batteries? I feel like being at 5V (main) and 2V (backup) earlier would indicate that they have discharged too far and need to be replaced.
 
Oh, and in the meantime, I finally got a call back from someone at the dealership where I bought the truck.

Long story short, he said that they DID transmit the registration of my ownership of the truck to Mopar 3 weeks ago, but they now see that - for unknown reasons - it didn't get picked up. So, they did acknowledge that the truck was not properly registered to me with Mopar. And they re-transmitted the In-service/registration info and said that they confirmed that it is NOW properly registered to me with an in-service of May 29th, like it's supposed to be.
 
Also, I figured I'd see about the BCM update to fix my Proximity Wake-up. I asked.

The guy SAYS that it wasn't working before because of the low battery voltage from bad batteries.

I very explicitly asked if they come on now just from walking up with the fob in your pocket, without unlocking it. He said they do...

We'll see... no big deal, really, if they don't. They didn't before. The main thing is that the new batteries really are all that it needed. Fingers crossed on that as I'll be loading up and leaving on a road trip right after work.
 
Also, I figured I'd see about the BCM update to fix my Proximity Wake-up. I asked.

The guy SAYS that it wasn't working before because of the low battery voltage from bad batteries.

I very explicitly asked if they come on now just from walking up with the fob in your pocket, without unlocking it. He said they do...

We'll see... no big deal, really, if they don't. They didn't before. The main thing is that the new batteries really are all that it needed. Fingers crossed on that as I'll be loading up and leaving on a road trip right after work.
Definitely curious to see if the proximity wake-up works.
And it’d be a hell of a coincidence if two batteries in the same truck had bad cells. Maybe buy a lottery ticket! :)
 
Definitely curious to see if the proximity wake-up works.
And it’d be a hell of a coincidence if two batteries in the same truck had bad cells. Maybe buy a lottery ticket! :)
I gotta say, my 21 F-150 had 3 battery replacements. They use cheap batteries and are just barely enough so the trucks basically wreak he!! on them, cracking cells.

If I remember correctly, the F-150 was OEM with an H-6 but the tray was large enough and could support an H-8. Everyone who upgraded said all of their problems effectively vanished.
 
Except for Mopar and K&N (on back order) -- what are the other options with P# for 3.0 engine air filter?
I did order a fram filter claimed to be an exact fit -- wrong part?
 
Fingers crossed that fixes it!

I really hope the electrical gremlins that plagued many of the early '25s are long gone.
I think it’s a work in progress. I had a CEL with code P018B this week. It was fixed by an ECM software update that had been released two days earlier.

Edit: and now my lane assist isn’t working.
 
Last edited:
2025 bighorn problems, custom ordered
-scratches on armrest
-scratches in tailgate plastic
-delivery log had 5miles on odometer but had 21miles when i picked it up
-blindspot error message
-back up camera screen is blue periodically
-this is a problem..no passive entry are u serious?
-best for last, shakes. Pedals, steering wheel, seat it all shakes even after a balancing.

Had it for 4weeks now

Worst new vehicle i ever bought.
 
I think it’s a work in progress. I had a CEL with code P018B this week. It was fixed by an ECM software update that had been released two days earlier.
Is there some way we can get a comprehensive list of updates, TSBs, etc? It'd be useful to know what updates might be available. I don't think there's an official list on the Mopar owner's site. And there are many, many other sites that all seem to have different lists (and don't instill trust).
I have a number of "minor" things wrong, and wouldn't mind getting them fixed. As long as it doesn't cause other issues. Knowing some of you have had a given update and are happy with it, would go a long way.
 
Driver's side control panel on door is not staying snapped into position. Has anyone else run into this? If I lift it a little, I can see the metal clip in the rearward side. I push it down solidly all the way, and I don't hear any click or indication the clip is engaging. It sort of stays there, for a little while.
I'm tempted to pull up a bit more to try to see what's going on, but... there are SO MANY switches on this thing. I'm worried about messing up a connection.
 
I think it’s a work in progress. I had a CEL with code P018B this week. It was fixed by an ECM software update that had been released two days earlier.

Edit: and now my lane assist isn’t working.
Dumb question, is it off? Either in the settings or the button above the radio?
 
Driver's side control panel on door is not staying snapped into position. Has anyone else run into this? If I lift it a little, I can see the metal clip in the rearward side. I push it down solidly all the way, and I don't hear any click or indication the clip is engaging. It sort of stays there, for a little while.
I'm tempted to pull up a bit more to try to see what's going on, but... there are SO MANY switches on this thing. I'm worried about messing up a connection.
Prolly wouldn’t mess up a connection, there’s usually a couple inches of wire available otherwise it’d be hard to replace
 
Is there some way we can get a comprehensive list of updates, TSBs, etc? It'd be useful to know what updates might be available. I don't think there's an official list on the Mopar owner's site. And there are many, many other sites that all seem to have different lists (and don't instill trust).
I have a number of "minor" things wrong, and wouldn't mind getting them fixed. As long as it doesn't cause other issues. Knowing some of you have had a given update and are happy with it, would go a long way.
NHTSA has all of them, but not necessarily in an easy list

https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2025/...automatedTest=true#manufacturerCommunications
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Members online

Back
Top