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8HP75 Transmission Service

Just an FYI for anyone needing the information straight from ZF on how to do it, torque specs/sequence, and service interval. Applies to 8HP70/75 even though Ram isn't mentioned, its the same procedure.
why did you also start a new thread?

you should have posted everything here IMO.
 
I like how the dealer says the trans doesn't need fluid changes but there are so many problems with these transmissions. My truck has been stuck at the dealer for over 2 months waiting on a valve body. Sounds like they do indeed require a fluid change and Ram should know better. Fortunately, my warranty will cover this one whenever I get my truck back. And I'm seeing I need to talk to them about the "A" clutch since it is prone to fail according to my reading.
 
I like how the dealer says the trans doesn't need fluid changes but there are so many problems with these transmissions. My truck has been stuck at the dealer for over 2 months waiting on a valve body. Sounds like they do indeed require a fluid change and Ram should know better. Fortunately, my warranty will cover this one whenever I get my truck back. And I'm seeing I need to talk to them about the "A" clutch since it is prone to fail according to my reading.
If you dont have an issue they won't just repair it because you want it done.

Might be quicker to get a transmission than a valve body, call Ram cares and hope they can help.
 
I'm at 50k and plan to do the fluid service. Got quoted $495 for OEM pan/filter from dealer parts. Since Ram don't recommend a service interval, I'm going to just drain and fill only. Keep the original pan/filter. Yes there are cheaper knock off pans/filters but I've read there are issues with them.

I'll change the pan/filter at $100k if I still own the truck then.
 
I'm at 50k and plan to do the fluid service. Got quoted $495 for OEM pan/filter from dealer parts. Since Ram don't recommend a service interval, I'm going to just drain and fill only. Keep the original pan/filter. Yes there are cheaper knock off pans/filters but I've read there are issues with them.

I'll change the pan/filter at $100k if I still own the truck then.
I would change the filter/pan while you are at it.
Just ordered one from amazon for my next fluid service.
Amazon.com
 
I'm at 50k and plan to do the fluid service. Got quoted $495 for OEM pan/filter from dealer parts. Since Ram don't recommend a service interval, I'm going to just drain and fill only. Keep the original pan/filter. Yes there are cheaper knock off pans/filters but I've read there are issues with them.

I'll change the pan/filter at $100k if I still own the truck then.
Not sure I'd label the PPE or B&M pans as "knock off". They are both reputable companies, and the pans are superior to the stock pans. And not just because they have a serviceable filter that doesn't require replacing the whole pan. Do whatever you are comfortable with but don't try to justify your choice by knocking the aftermarket pans. Is just installed the PPE pan a few weeks ago on my truck. Zero issues with it.
 
Not sure I'd label the PPE or B&M pans as "knock off". They are both reputable companies, and the pans are superior to the stock pans. And not just because they have a serviceable filter that doesn't require replacing the whole pan. Do whatever you are comfortable with but don't try to justify your choice by knocking the aftermarket pans. Is just installed the PPE pan a few weeks ago on my truck. Zero issues with it.
Did you raise the rear of the truck way up or keep the truck level when filling?

Sent from my SM-S928U1 using Tapatalk
 
Did you raise the rear of the truck way up or keep the truck level when filling?

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My driveway is sloped slightly, so with the back of the truck jacked up to get wheels off the ground, it leveled the truck. Because you have to have get the wheels turning and transmission to shift as part of full procedure
 
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I'm at 50k and plan to do the fluid service. Got quoted $495 for OEM pan/filter from dealer parts. Since Ram don't recommend a service interval, I'm going to just drain and fill only. Keep the original pan/filter. Yes there are cheaper knock off pans/filters but I've read there are issues with them.

I'll change the pan/filter at $100k if I still own the truck then.
You hit on one of the main things, “if I still own the truck then”. I have wasted a lot of maintenance dollars on previous vehicles thinking that I will keep it “10 years”.
Based on my history, the average is about 2-3. Longest was 6, shortest was a ridiculous 14 months. What’s yours?

Now I am figuring on probably selling whatever I have before it needs major fluid changes. Oil needs done but the rest, I won’t bother.

I didn't get 10 cents more when I traded off the previous vehicles based on a thick file of maintenance receipts. The dealers simply did not care at all. Hindsight is 20/20 yet if there is a pattern you need to consider that. I have wished I could have bought the slightly used vehicle from someone who did what I did as far as over-maintaining it.
 
My driveway is sloped slightly, so with the back of the truck jacked up to get wheels off the ground, it leveled the truck. Because you have to have get the wheels turning and transmission to shift as part of full procedure
I always like to ask because several on other forums swear by jacking the rear of truck way up to level the transmission pan rails as opposed to just leveling the frame which only slightly raises the rear when going through the final steps after the shift procedure.

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I always like to ask because several on other forums swear by jacking the rear of truck way up to level the transmission pan rails as opposed to just leveling the frame which only slightly raises the rear when going through the final steps after the shift procedure.

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Have the dealer do it and they will just have it on the lift, not worry about doing any more level than that.
 
I always like to ask because several on other forums swear by jacking the rear of truck way up to level the transmission pan rails as opposed to just leveling the frame which only slightly raises the rear when going through the final steps after the shift procedure.

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The truck needs to be level, not the tranny.
"In-vehicle service was performed on transmission - Raise and support the vehicle on a level hoist"
 
Have the dealer do it and they will just have it on the lift, not worry about doing any more level than that.
The truck needs to be level, not the tranny.
"In-vehicle service was performed on transmission - Raise and support the vehicle on a level hoist"
I've tried both ways and I enjoy the way it shifts more with the truck levelled than with the pan levelled. I just like seeing which method people choose.

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Well shute, the service history on my newly acquired beast does not include a tranny fluid change, with 150k on the clock should I be getting twitchy? :eek::ROFLMAO:
 
I've tried both ways and I enjoy the way it shifts more with the truck levelled than with the pan levelled. I just like seeing which method people choose.

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What I quoted is from the factory service procedure. So that is what I follow.
 
Well shute, the service history on my newly acquired beast does not include a tranny fluid change, with 150k on the clock should I be getting twitchy? :eek::ROFLMAO:
Might not hurt to address that?
I waited till 82k, the fluid was pretty black but it did not smell burned.
 
I've tried both ways and I enjoy the way it shifts more with the truck levelled than with the pan levelled. I just like seeing which method people choose.

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That's pretty interesting in the difference in shifts between the 2 different leveling procedures. I did mine with the pan leveled....When doing it the instructions stated to level the pan but in my head I thought to myself if someone did this on a lift it would just have the frame leveled. I went with a PPE pan and Mopar 8-9 fluid
 
I leveled my pan. It shifts exactly the same as it always did. (Purchased new).

Swapped to PPE pan.

Seems to take much longer to get to operating temp but runs temps similarly once warm. Haven’t had it towing in summer heat yet.
 
I leveled my pan. It shifts exactly the same as it always did. (Purchased new).

Swapped to PPE pan.

Seems to take much longer to get to operating temp but runs temps similarly once warm. Haven’t had it towing in summer heat yet.
Going to take longer to warm up because there is more fluid and the pain itself acts as a better heatsink
 
That's pretty interesting in the difference in shifts between the 2 different leveling procedures. I did mine with the pan leveled....When doing it the instructions stated to level the pan but in my head I thought to myself if someone did this on a lift it would just have the frame leveled. I went with a PPE pan and Mopar 8-9 fluid
With the pan levelled, shifts are more pronounced whereas, with the frame levelled, the shifts are smoother and a little quicker for me. I'm running my tune now which makes the shifts real snappy. With the pan levelled, the shifts are a little more exaggerated if that makes sense.

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