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2019 RAM 1500 Heater Core

ehiebert

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Did my heater core... yeah it's a huge job. Here's what I found.

The heater core itself doesn't necessarily leak. In my case the issue was caused by a **** poor design of the heater core and a leaking $0.25 O-Right to the heater core input. Yeah all this work for a 25 cent O-ring.

Replaced O-ring, pressure tested at 15 PSI for an hour and all good.

Now Why the hell would Dodge put an O-Ring seal on a part that is so hard to get at. Really **** poor design to save $1 on the shipping box of the heater core from China is my only guess.

Dealer quotes on this fix ranged from $2200 to $2900. Go figure... for a 25 cent O-ring.

If anyone is doing this job I can provide advice and assistance.

Thanks for listening.
 
I've had the dashes out of at least 4 of my 3rd gen rams for either a heater core or blend doors so I'm curious how it compares to the 5th gen. I had it down to under 4 hrs on the last one but the trucks were much simpler.

Does it still pull way from the firewall in one big assembly once you drop the steering column?
Did you happen to take any pictures?
 
Hi OCD,

The heater core air box, fan motors, AC evaporator is all one big plastic blob attached to the inside of the firewall. Requires removing plenty of stuff to get at it. Unfortunately I did not take many detailed pictures and I did not remove the entire dash support frame as the heater core itself was not at fault, just the crappy little O-ring seal.

Here's the picture I do have... Hope this satisfies your curiosity.
 

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Wow, thanks for sharing, I suspected it would be some cheap little connection that would be the main problem.

Since I live in a temperate zone, if mine ever starts to leak, I'm just going to do a permanent block off to the heater core and call it a day, assuming I'm out of warranty.
 
Here;s an exploded view of the leak.
 

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I'm just going to do a permanent block off to the heater core and call it a day.
Until I got around to replacing the heater core in my last 03, the only heat I had was from the seats. It was almost tolerable for how seldom it gets cold in Georgia.
 
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Did my heater core... yeah it's a huge job. Here's what I found.

The heater core itself doesn't necessarily leak. In my case the issue was caused by a **** poor design of the heater core and a leaking $0.25 O-Right to the heater core input. Yeah all this work for a 25 cent O-ring.

Replaced O-ring, pressure tested at 15 PSI for an hour and all good.

Now Why the hell would Dodge put an O-Ring seal on a part that is so hard to get at. Really **** poor design to save $1 on the shipping box of the heater core from China is my only guess.

Dealer quotes on this fix ranged from $2200 to $2900. Go figure... for a 25 cent O-ring.

If anyone is doing this job I can provide advice and assistance.

Thanks for listening.
Should do a write up!! Im sure some will need it and it would be greatly appreciated…
 
No offense, I’m a pretty avid DIY guy for some things.
Seeing pictures like this… makes me glad I have the Max Care warranty…
Years ago I replaced the HC on my old 1988 Ranger, I cheated and removed just the bare minimum to get it out, new one in.
I woudn’t even think to attempt it looking at those pictures.
While I’m sure I have the tool and ability to do so.. I know for certain, I don’t have the time.
 
No offense, I’m a pretty avid DIY guy for some things.
Seeing pictures like this… makes me glad I have the Max Care warranty…
Years ago I replaced the HC on my old 1988 Ranger, I cheated and removed just the bare minimum to get it out, new one in.
I woudn’t even think to attempt it looking at those pictures.
While I’m sure I have the tool and ability to do so.. I know for certain, I don’t have the time.
That looks worse than if done by the instructions in the service manual. 12 bolts, 2 screws, 9 connectors, 1 ground eyelet, coolant drain and refrigerant recovery plus the bolt holding the R1234 connection to the evaporator.
 
I have done at least a dozen heater cores in the 5th gen trucks. I have not seen that oring failure, always an actual core leaking. So many manufacturers use the same design with an oring/crimp seal design, very low failure rate.
 
That looks worse than if done by the instructions in the service manual. 12 bolts, 2 screws, 9 connectors, 1 ground eyelet, coolant drain and refrigerant recovery plus the bolt holding the R1234 connection to the evaporator.
The factory instructions remove the dash panel and frame all as one unit I believe. Not sure because I haven't seen them. In my case I had to remove the dash panel to be able to see what else needed to be removed to get the heater airbox exposed. No information on the 'net or youtube on how to do this as yet. The two bolts under the external windshield wiper cowl were a mystery to me and I couldn't locate all the necessary connectors without being able to see what needed disconnecting and what didn't. So yeah, I removed extra stuff.

And now I have an electrical problem. See post about "Absolutely NO electrical after heater core fix." If you have a hint on that one, it would be very appreciated. This one has me stumped so far.
 
So yeah, I removed extra stuff.
You sure did. Kudo`s for not throwing in the towel.
As far as electrical, do you have b+ present at the interior power distribution center,(fuse box)?
If so, then I would double check that all the connectors are fully inserted and that there are no bent pins or obvious broken wires.
 
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You sure did. Kudo`s for not throwing in the towel.
As far as electrical, do you have b+ present at the interior power distribution center,(fuse box)?
If so, then I would double check that all the connectors are fully inserted and that there are no bent pins or obvious broken wires.
Yeah I've checked the B+ busy and all the nuts on the bus bar to the under hood box. Checked interior fuse box connections 3 times. Now I have it all back apart again looking for anything that may have been inadvertently disconnected, which I highly doubt with how all the connectors lock together.

Still searching....
 
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Man, those pictures are intimidating at the least. I have fundamental mechanical skills, but my tool selection out-strips my knowledge. All I can say is wow. There is no way I could/would tackle that job. My hat is off to your skills. Good luck in solving your electrical issues, as they are so time-consuming to find, but usually a straightforward fix. I know that I do not have the time to try and even tackle the job or a place to work on a job that is as complex/time-consuming as that job. I do not have a garage of any kind and a sloped gravel drive.

BlueHemi1500
 
UPDATE: The source of electrical failure is found.
I missed the interior fuse box B+ feed connector. The darn thing curls up and out of sight when disconnected. Of course I'm blind in one eye to begin with (literally).
 
UPDATE: The source of electrical failure is found.
I missed the interior fuse box B+ feed connector. The darn thing curls up and out of sight when disconnected. Of course I'm blind in one eye to begin with (literally).
Glad you got it sorted out.
 
Did my heater core... yeah it's a huge job. Here's what I found.

The heater core itself doesn't necessarily leak. In my case the issue was caused by a **** poor design of the heater core and a leaking $0.25 O-Right to the heater core input. Yeah all this work for a 25 cent O-ring.

Replaced O-ring, pressure tested at 15 PSI for an hour and all good.

Now Why the hell would Dodge put an O-Ring seal on a part that is so hard to get at. Really **** poor design to save $1 on the shipping box of the heater core from China is my only guess.

Dealer quotes on this fix ranged from $2200 to $2900. Go figure... for a 25 cent O-ring.

If anyone is doing this job I can provide advice and assistance.

Thanks for listening.
Currently doing this job. I’m to the point that I need to drop the heater core/ac unit that is attached to interior firewall. Any help for thus would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
Did my heater core... yeah it's a huge job. Here's what I found.

The heater core itself doesn't necessarily leak. In my case the issue was caused by a **** poor design of the heater core and a leaking $0.25 O-Right to the heater core input. Yeah all this work for a 25 cent O-ring.

Replaced O-ring, pressure tested at 15 PSI for an hour and all good.

Now Why the hell would Dodge put an O-Ring seal on a part that is so hard to get at. Really **** poor design to save $1 on the shipping box of the heater core from China is my only guess.

Dealer quotes on this fix ranged from $2200 to $2900. Go figure... for a 25 cent O-ring.

If anyone is doing this job I can provide advice and assistance.

Thanks for listening.
Saw this video the other day and then when I saw this thread it made me wonder if you found any casting sand in any of your cooling components during the heater core replacement?
Thanks for all the details on the swap.

 

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