5100 Leveling Bighorn BTS

[JHilla]

Looking to find out what bilstein 5100 setting is best for leveling the front end of a 2024 1500 Bighorn w BTS package. Has raised ride height from factory.

Also any feedback from these adjustable shocks? Rideability / longevity .

Can these be installed, leveled, and not have to change the UCAs?

 

[boogielander]

i don't have the exact clip location on top of my head because i don't run them on my personal truck (not because they're not good, but because i got better ones)

however, i can tell you:

• these are the lowest budget shocks you can get and still get good quality in build and ride. That's not a bad thing, but it's still tiers over stuff like RC, Falcon, Rancho, etc.
• They ride a bit on the stiffer side, but that's still good because you retain handling and won't feel like a boat. As long as you keep it mostly street or light offroading, they will last you a long time
  • Example of what NOT to do with these (yeap that's me, with Bilstein 5100s):
• As long as you keep it under 2" (i like to play it safe to avoid liability issues for customers with less budget. he) you don't have to but it is highly recommended to do UCA to avoid any future issues that may arise.

 

[Mojoman]

I've had them on my 2020 bighorn with offroad package for about 4 years. Have them on circlip setting #4, and installed RC forged uca. I've been satisfied with them.

 

[jl13]

I would recommend to just changes the uca's even if its a pavement princess - the angles are just not great. here a link to another thread that was closed but my post #3 has pictures on my truck and the angles before and after. for your reference mine is also a BTS - I added leveling struts @1.5 plus BTS springs so total around 2.5.
The guy with the accident only had a 2" total lift
there are many options now

Post in thread 'Anyone Experience Total upper/lower front Control Arm Failure While Operating at Low Speeds? 2021 1500 Laramie Longhorn'

Oct 7, 2024

If you are going to keep the lift after you fix it. For sure upgrade uca's and if you are running the top hat lift spacer consider doing adjustbale struts like the bilsteins 5100.
See pics, the angle on the uca's improve with the upgrade, its less stress on the ball joint. And more metal than plastic

• jl13

 

[Rambo 2024]

Looking to find out what bilstein 5100 setting is best for leveling the front end of a 2024 1500 Bighorn w BTS package. Has raised ride height from factory.

Also any feedback from these adjustable shocks? Rideability / longevity .

Can these be installed, leveled, and not have to change the UCAs?

Hi there. I just had 5100’s installed on my 2024 Laramie 6.4 bed. The shock body has 7 grooves. I put the clip on the 5th groove which according to Bilstein is 1.7” over stock. Ride height is perfect in my opinion.

I also had 5100 on my previous F150. They are excellent shock with digressive valuing which means they react very quick on poor road conditions (bumps, etc) but are very civil just cruising down the road.

For the money -about $300 a pair- there is nothing better on the market, period. I know, I know, someone will say that Eibachs are just as good. News flash. They copied the 5100 in every way.

Good luck.

 

[JHilla]

Thanks for the intel. Going with 5100s for now and going to monitor the UCAs after install. I can always swap them out later.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Looking to find out what bilstein 5100 setting is best for leveling the front end of a 2024 1500 Bighorn w BTS package. Has raised ride height from factory.

Also any feedback from these adjustable shocks? Rideability / longevity .

Can these be installed, leveled, and not have to change the UCAs?

Clip 5 will put you perfect level

 

[Mike F.]

Same question.
I'm getting ready to put Bilstein 5100s on my 2021 1500 4x4 Laramie w/o OFP. I want all the lift! What I'm thinking is...
max out the front to position 7 and add the 1" lift spring from Bilstein and 5100s on the rear. I will also be replacing the UCAs.
The goal is to get as close to a 3" lift as I can and put on 296/60R20 on 20x9s with no rubbing.
Is there a better option without buying an offroad set up for thousands more? I don't do a lot of offroading.
All help is appreciated.

 

[scottmoyer]

Sounds like you have it all set. The only recommendation I have is to also replace the sway bar end links. Since they connect to the LCA, raising the front end puts the sway bar with the factory links at the wrong angle. The new end links are longer to reach the new height of the truck.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Same question.
I'm getting ready to put Bilstein 5100s on my 2021 1500 4x4 Laramie w/o OFP. I want all the lift! What I'm thinking is...
max out the front to position 7 and add the 1" lift spring from Bilstein and 5100s on the rear. I will also be replacing the UCAs.
The goal is to get as close to a 3" lift as I can and put on 296/60R20 on 20x9s with no rubbing.
Is there a better option without buying an offroad set up for thousands more? I don't do a lot of offroading.
All help is appreciated.

You will also need to ddres the CV axle geometry with the test lift. Trakmotiv makes extended travel CV axles to help this

 

[Jedi9]

Same question.
I'm getting ready to put Bilstein 5100s on my 2021 1500 4x4 Laramie w/o OFP. I want all the lift! What I'm thinking is...
max out the front to position 7 and add the 1" lift spring from Bilstein and 5100s on the rear. I will also be replacing the UCAs.
The goal is to get as close to a 3" lift as I can and put on 296/60R20 on 20x9s with no rubbing.
Is there a better option without buying an offroad set up for thousands more? I don't do a lot of offroading.
All help is appreciated.

On my '21 Bighorn my factory rake was maybe 1 3/4 I went with my factory springs on the 5100s setting 7 which gave me 3" and went with the tufftruck 1 1/2" rear springs which gave me 2". I maintain a 3/4" rake. In your situation I would be nose high with a 1" spring in the rear. I would measure what you got, maybe install the rear springs first, then adjust front to what you want.

 

[Mike F.]

On my '21 Bighorn my factory rake was maybe 1 3/4 I went with my factory springs on the 5100s setting 7 which gave me 3" and went with the tufftruck 1 1/2" rear springs which gave me 2". I maintain a 3/4" rake. In your situation I would be nose high with a 1" spring in the rear. I would measure what you got, maybe install the rear springs first, then adjust front to what you want.

Thanks for replying. I've been digging through previous posts for 2 days trying to find the answers. My main concerns with this have been,
1) will I need to do the upper control arms. Bilstein says no, Rough Country says that this lift isn't enough to use their control arms (minimum lift 3"). I thought this set up was going to give me the 3" with the 1" lift in the rear.
2) The tire size. 20x9 +1 wheel, -285/64r20- (34.6x11.2) is what I'm shooting for w/o trimming. Heat molding is fine and I don't mind bending the liner tab back. I just don't want to have to cut anything.
I hear what you're saying about sway bar links and cv axels. I guess the new links would increase the same measurement as the lift. So +3" from oem if I max the 5100s?
As far as the axels... I would only need to replace the front where the majority of the lift is yes?
You've been very helpful and I do appreciate it. I know a lot of my questions have been asked 100 times here and people are over the tire size talk at this point. BUT... I still have questions. Any and all good advice is greatly welcomed.
Thanks

 

[Jedi9]

Yes, I got 3" on the front, its been some time now and no settling yet. bilstein says #7 will net 2.7" so mileage varys a little. .
1) new control arms for sure, probably for 2" and up. stock ones will fail over time. Mopar makes an inexpensive control arm for height increases, I went with Rancho, a lot of choices out there. Look for solid, strong arms, with a quality replaceable ball joint.
2) I'm running 295/60R20s on 20 x 9 wheels with o offset. no rubs, no scrubs
3) I'm running stock front sway bar links that I will replace when they fail. I've looked into aftermarket, they are really not that longer, just have a different angle on them. The sway bar angle is not really changed, just the angle of the link mount, which will increase wear of the joint. When the front end starts to clunck, check the play.
4) Axles the same, mine are working fine. If/ when they fail I'll go with the trackmotive.
I did go with extended Core sway bar links in the rear to keep the sway bar level.
Definitely go with new control arms on the front, you'll already have it apart and it is a safety concern. Upgrade other components as they fail, I've had no issues

 

[Mike F.]

Yes, I got 3" on the front, its been some time now and no settling yet. bilstein says #7 will net 2.7" so mileage varys a little. .
1) new control arms for sure, probably for 2" and up. stock ones will fail over time. Mopar makes an inexpensive control arm for height increases, I went with Rancho, a lot of choices out there. Look for solid, strong arms, with a quality replaceable ball joint.
2) I'm running 295/60R20s on 20 x 9 wheels with o offset. no rubs, no scrubs
3) I'm running stock front sway bar links that I will replace when they fail. I've looked into aftermarket, they are really not that longer, just have a different angle on them. The sway bar angle is not really changed, just the angle of the link mount, which will increase wear of the joint. When the front end starts to clunck, check the play.
4) Axles the same, mine are working fine. If/ when they fail I'll go with the trackmotive.
I did go with extended Core sway bar links in the rear to keep the sway bar level.
Definitely go with new control arms on the front, you'll already have it apart and it is a safety concern. Upgrade other components as they fail, I've had no issues

Thanks for the good information. I just looked at the Ranch control arms, they're perfect for this, thanks. I was planning to swap out all the rear linkage and bars with adjustables over the next year. I'm not sure what I'm looking for on the front sway bar links. The local lift shop told me I didn't need a lot of things that RAM owners have told me I do. Then they tried to sell me a RC kit with spacers so I decided to do this lift myself, with a little help.
Now I'm considering only going to the 6th ring on the 5100s and the 1 inch spring lift in the back. If it leave the truck *** high I can always go to seven. If I start at 7 and I'm nose high I can throw a one inch spacer on the rear. Does that sound logical?
I broke away from this reply to talk to the guy at AmTruck about all of this. He's putting together a package with all the stabilizer links, control arms and track bar. Your advice is getting expensive. Hopefully it's all worth it and works properly. I'm not planning to do any rock crawling but I will be hitting trails around Colorado this spring, nothing extreme.

 

[Jedi9]

LOL, good luck, i would recommend taking careful measurements of where you are now, and where you want to go. Also measure from the center of the wheel to the fenderwell, not from the ground, because the ground distance changes with the tires. and yes, no trouble adding a spacer to the rear if you need it later, but you don't want to have to get in there and change the front again if you don't have to. If my rear starts settling down I will go back to the front and drop it down some. I'm right where I want to be now, 3/4" rake, and with my work trailer on the back it is level to 1/4" rake. Right your before and after measurements down so you can always go back and reference them later

 

[Jedi9]

I did go with a stiffer sway bar in the rear, and love it. I left the front alone. I have not messed with the track bar in the rear.

 

[Mike F.]

LOL, good luck, i would recommend taking careful measurements of where you are now, and where you want to go. Also measure from the center of the wheel to the fenderwell, not from the ground, because the ground distance changes with the tires. and yes, no trouble adding a spacer to the rear if you need it later, but you don't want to have to get in there and change the front again if you don't have to. If my rear starts settling down I will go back to the front and drop it down some. I'm right where I want to be now, 3/4" rake, and with my work trailer on the back it is level to 1/4" rake. Right your before and after measurements down so you can always go back and reference them later

Thanks again.
I'm going to have this truck for a while so I'm trying to make all the modifications right and proper without spending $10k. I'm researching and soaking up as much information as I can but there seem to be a lot of contradictions and indirect answers.
The lift theory I'm working with here is questionable but should work.
If level is 2" front lift and the 5100s maxed are 2.6 (according to Bilstein), that would put the front at 2.6", .6 over level, by adding a 1" lift spring to the rear, the back would then be 3" above the factory front height and .4" above the lifted front height but should also bring the front up at least .2" to get real close to 3" in front. Giving me more than enough room for the 295/60R20 a 34" tire.
Then all the kids will think I'm cool? Sorry, sometimes I question why I'm doing all of this to a perfectly good truck.