Which Lift/Level?

[BoeingDriver]

Have a 2019 1500 (no ORP) and looking into getting a 2-3” lift/level. Would like to keep factory 20” wheels.

Questions are:

Can I get away with 35s on OEM 20” wheels?

Which kit is best if looking for as close to stock ride as possible (read MOPAR was but it’s been a few years)

 

[Scram1500]

You can do tall tires on OEM 20" rims but they need to be skinny, like 11-11.5" wide or the tire will contact the upper control arm. As far as the lift goes Mopar will probably be closest to stock in terms of ride quality

 

[Gnix]

Bilstein 5100 front/rear Adjustable
Bilstein 6112/5160 Adjustable
Rough country 3.5” lift kit

Bilsteins will require Mopar 2” UCA (Cheapest option UCA)

295/65R20 tires is your best bet but it is about 11.6-11.7 wide. 35” tires

There’s other options available. But I’m not too familiar. Maybe someone else can help him out here!!

 

[VegasRob55]

Have a 2019 1500 (no ORP) and looking into getting a 2-3” lift/level. Would like to keep factory 20” wheels.

Questions are:

Can I get away with 35s on OEM 20” wheels?

Which kit is best if looking for as close to stock ride as possible (read MOPAR was but it’s been a few years)

I have a 19' Laramie. I did fronts with Bilstein 6112 coilover at 2.3" and Bilstein 5100 in the rears with Bilstein B12 1" lifted springs. Easily fit 295/65R20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers on the Laramie 20"x9" stock wheels. The tires are 35.1" x 11.8". Rides like an absolute dream and way safer feeling on the highway at higher speeds. Zero body roll.

 

[VegasRob55]

I have a 19' Laramie. I did fronts with Bilstein 6112 coilover at 2.3" and Bilstein 5100 in the rears with Bilstein B12 1" lifted springs. Easily fit 295/65R20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers on the Laramie 20"x9" stock wheels. The tires are 35.1" x 11.8". Rides like an absolute dream and way safer feeling on the highway at higher speeds. Zero body roll.

Also, I did not change out the UCAs

 

[wickedmopar]

I'm in this same dilemma, feedback is all over the map and I don't have experience with lifted vehicles.

I've been leaning towards Bilstein 5100 all around to get get ~2" leveled. My local truck place didn't say UCA would be required with this setup but they did say if you do the front, good idea to do the back for ride consistency.

In for more feedback.

 

[CalvinC]

If you’re not actually bashing it off road and want a high quality on road ride to go with a nice stance, just grab either a Bilstien or an Eibach kit, Pair it with a ~11.5” wide or less tire (295 section width or less) and call it a day.

Each has a couple options to tailor to your price & preference, but both are relatively affordable & priced similarly.

Bilstien will deliver the most composed ride and handling but is a little less compliant on small bumps at low speeds.

The Eibachs are slightly more compliant over these bumps but trade that for some handling responsiveness.

Really can’t go wrong either way as both are far better than stock.

 

[scottmoyer]

I added the Bilstein 5100s to the front, replaced the UCA with Mopar UCAs (the cheapest option) and replaced the sway bar end links with SuspensionMaxx extended links for lifts/levels. The UCAs were for the extra travel allowed to ball joint and the sway bar end links were needed since the middle of the bar is attached to the body. Many people use the existing end links, but think of the dynamics with the bar attached to the frame, and lifting the frame, it moves the end connections to need a longer link.

I over leveled my truck which required a 1" rear spacer to bring it back to a look I preferred. Without the spacer, I was perfectly level, but anything at all in the truck gave it a sagging look. So, the spacer gave the proper look. Next time, I would just not set the 5100s to the highest setting.

 

[wickedmopar]

I added the Bilstein 5100s to the front, replaced the UCA with Mopar UCAs (the cheapest option) and replaced the sway bar end links with SuspensionMaxx extended links for lifts/levels. The UCAs were for the extra travel allowed to ball joint and the sway bar end links were needed since the middle of the bar is attached to the body. Many people use the existing end links, but think of the dynamics with the bar attached to the frame, and lifting the frame, it moves the end connections to need a longer link.

I over leveled my truck which required a 1" rear spacer to bring it back to a look I preferred. Without the spacer, I was perfectly level, but anything at all in the truck gave it a sagging look. So, the spacer gave the proper look. Next time, I would just not set the 5100s to the highest setting.

good info, got a pic to share?

 

[scottmoyer]

This was before the rear block was added. Just looking at this pic is what made me decide to add the rear block. While perfectly level, front to rear, the rear appears low. After the block, it has the perfect stance.

 

[scottmoyer]

I found the most recent pic after the 1" rear block.

 

[clb]

I found the most recent pic after the 1" rear block.

View attachment 193052

You sure? Looks the same to me

 

[LITTLEREBEL]

 

[wickedmopar]

I found the most recent pic after the 1" rear block.

View attachment 193052

looks great, I can see what you mean about that rear end.

are those stock size wheels/tires?

 

[scottmoyer]

Stock Rebel tires on stock RAM TRX Ignition Edition wheels.

 

[scottmoyer]

You sure? Looks the same to me

I may need a new pic. I thought that was taken after the rear block, but it could be before. The driveway makes it look like it's sagging still