Guidance on suspension upgrade

[Combee1]

I'm looking for some direction on which way to go given the following scenario:

2019 RAM 1500 4x4 with ORD package driven primarily on the road and beaches, and also towing a boat, in Florida. Before delivery, the dealer put a ReadyLift 2" leveling kit (spacers) on when they installed 285/65/R20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. That set-up has been fine (slight tire rub on full turn) until recently ( 4 years and 56K miles later) I started hearing squeaking from the front suspension. After talking to a local suspension shop, it appears the UC arm ball joints are gone. I'm going to take the truck by next week to go over options for accomplishing the following goals:

1. Correct front suspension issue permanently (remove spacers?)
2. Maintain the same lift, or maybe increase by 1" for better clearance/aesthetics (eliminate tire rub?)
3. Improve towing performance (6k boat and trailer). Rear end sags just below front and seems slightly unstable compared to my previous SUV.
4. New wheels with offset to move wheels out slightly (just barely outside of well). Maybe this by itself improves tire rub?

I don't need anything super high-end given my driving habits. Reliability and ride are my two main priorities. I would rate current ride as adequate (outside of when I tow). I have some cash to spend, but would like to only spend on what I need to accomplish the goals in mind. Having said that, I'm willing to spend what I need to not have to do this again in the next 5 years.

Any thoughts or suggestions on things to consider are greatly appreciated. I'd like to have some ideas for when I meet with the shop guys next week.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

What's your Budget? That's going to determine options.

 

[Combee1]

What's your Budget? That's going to determine options.

I'd like to keep things under $5k tops. But like I said, I don't need high end options. Just options that are solid and reliable.
Thanks for any input.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

1. Correct front suspension issue permanently (remove spacers?)
2. Maintain the same lift, or maybe increase by 1" for better clearance/aesthetics (eliminate tire rub?)
3. Improve towing performance (6k boat and trailer). Rear end sags just below front and seems slightly unstable compared to my previous SUV.
4. New wheels with offset to move wheels out slightly (just barely outside of well). Maybe this by itself improves tire rub?

Definitely throw spacer kit in the garbage for a proper working suspension.

UCA's rebuild, or replace with RC, BDS, ICON, Zone Offroad, or Core4X4. Make sure compatible with the amount you want to lift.

Eibach Stage 2 or 2R around 3", using coilovers and new rear coils

Airlift air bags many used for the extra help with sag

10" wide -18 with slight poke

 

[Combee1]

1. Correct front suspension issue permanently (remove spacers?)
2. Maintain the same lift, or maybe increase by 1" for better clearance/aesthetics (eliminate tire rub?)
3. Improve towing performance (6k boat and trailer). Rear end sags just below front and seems slightly unstable compared to my previous SUV.
4. New wheels with offset to move wheels out slightly (just barely outside of well). Maybe this by itself improves tire rub?

Definitely throw spacer kit in the garbage for a proper working suspension.

Eibach Stage 2 or 2R around 3", using coilovers and new rear coils

Airlift air bags many used for the extra help with sag

10" wide -18 with slight poke

Great! Thanks.

Do you know of any reputable brands for the air bags?

 

[Combee1]

1. Correct front suspension issue permanently (remove spacers?)
2. Maintain the same lift, or maybe increase by 1" for better clearance/aesthetics (eliminate tire rub?)
3. Improve towing performance (6k boat and trailer). Rear end sags just below front and seems slightly unstable compared to my previous SUV.
4. New wheels with offset to move wheels out slightly (just barely outside of well). Maybe this by itself improves tire rub?

Definitely throw spacer kit in the garbage for a proper working suspension.

UCA's rebuild, or replace with RC, BDS, ICON, Zone Offroad, or Core4X4. Make sure compatible with the amount you want to lift.

Eibach Stage 2 or 2R around 3", using coilovers and new rear coils

Airlift air bags many used for the extra help with sag

10" wide -18 with slight poke

As luck would have it, the Elbach Stage 2 lift options are out of stock right now. Any alternatives?

 

[H2OMAN]

As luck would have it, the Elbach Stage 2 lift options are out of stock right now. Any alternatives?

Bilstein.Bilstein B8 5100 0-2.6" Front Lift Adjustable Coilovers with Rear Shocks and Coils for 2019-2024 Ram 1500 New Body
https://www.amazon.com/Air-Lift-608...fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0&th=1

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

Great! Thanks.

Do you know of any reputable brands for the air bags?

Air Lift Company - Tow and Haul with Safety and Comfort

Air suspension kits and air ride suspension kits (also called air bags or air springs) from Air Lift help with towing and hauling with safety and comfort.

www.airliftcompany.com

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

As luck would have it, the Elbach Stage 2 lift options are out of stock right now. Any alternatives?

They usually comeback in stock relatively quick. The only other 3"+ would be RC with M1 upgrade and control arms. They spec out like the Bilstein 5100's and I've seen good reviews. RC seems to be stepping up their quality.

 

[Redz72]

If I had 5k to do it, I’d go Carli 2.5” Commuter paired with Core 4x4 UCA and call it a day. I’d be sure to throw in a Hellwig Rear seay bar and Core End links for good measure.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

Ideally....

BDS if you're DIY!

Dodge Suspension Lift Kits (New 2023 Kits Available!) | Jack-It

Dodge Suspension Lift Kits are offered in a vast array of sizes and manufacturers. We have a lift kit for nearly every model of Dodge ever made.

www.jackit.com

 

[Combee1]

Thanks for the replies guys. You've given me some things to chew on.

I do most things DIY. I take care of most of the work on our cars/boat/house etc., but I've never tackled a suspension beyond adding the rear Hellwig bar upgrade on my truck. Something to consider.

Please confirm that I'm thinking about this the right way.... Since I have the off road package, any lift I replace with will be minus 1" over the existing clearance. In other words, when I added 2" spacers, that effectively gave me a 3" lift over stock. So if I go with a 3" lift kit (and throw out the spacers), I will be at the same clearance I have now. Someone please correct me if that is wrong.

 

[Combee1]

Bilstein.Bilstein B8 5100 0-2.6" Front Lift Adjustable Coilovers with Rear Shocks and Coils for 2019-2024 Ram 1500 New Body
https://www.amazon.com/Air-Lift-60828HD-Heavy-Spring/dp/B07L9F32QT/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3UIB0J3DRPDLU&keywords=airlift+1000+ram+1500&qid=1706216310&sprefix=airlift+1000,aps,207&sr=8-4&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0&th=1

If I understand the info on this link, with the Off-Road package on my truck, the best I can get out of this Bilstein set-up is a 2" lift, which would be an inch lower than I am running in the front right now (with the RL spacers in place)?

 

[Combee1]

If I had 5k to do it, I’d go Carli 2.5” Commuter paired with Core 4x4 UCA and call it a day. I’d be sure to throw in a Hellwig Rear seay bar and Core End links for good measure.

If I go with the Carli Commuter, would the HD rear spring be the better option since I tow fairly often. Or do you think the ride would be too harsh since I would not have that load as a constant?

 

[mplaramie]

If I go with the Carli Commuter, would the HD rear spring be the better option since I tow fairly often. Or do you think the ride would be too harsh since I would not have that load as a constant?

You could always do the normal spring and put in bags like Airlift or similar.

 

[boogielander]

I'm looking for some direction on which way to go given the following scenario:

2019 RAM 1500 4x4 with ORD package driven primarily on the road and beaches, and also towing a boat, in Florida. Before delivery, the dealer put a ReadyLift 2" leveling kit (spacers) on when they installed 285/65/R20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. That set-up has been fine (slight tire rub on full turn) until recently ( 4 years and 56K miles later) I started hearing squeaking from the front suspension. After talking to a local suspension shop, it appears the UC arm ball joints are gone. I'm going to take the truck by next week to go over options for accomplishing the following goals:

1. Correct front suspension issue permanently (remove spacers?)

Toss those spacers. They ARE the cause of problem.

Technical Tuesday: Suspension Lift vs Pucks - Why Pucks/ Spacers are Never Good Ideas

This post also shows up on my website jollyrogueco.com. Technical Tuesday is a series of technical discussions I post on Tuesdays (well, unless I don’t remember to post) to help the community make good decisions regarding their builds. This only applies to people who want/ enjoy taking their...

5thgenrams.com

This explains why.

2. Maintain the same lift, or maybe increase by 1" for better clearance/aesthetics (eliminate tire rub?)

As I've explained in this thread that discusses proper suspension setup:

Fox 2.5 DSC Suspension - A Brief Overview, Procedure, and Review of Proper Suspension Setup

There are plenty of suspension offerings on the market for the 5th gen Ram 1500 platform, ranging from cheap to expensive. In this thread, I will be detailing why I chose Fox 2.5 for my build, procedures of installing and dialing in the ride, and a review of the build as everything came...

5thgenrams.com

The higher you lift the less droop you will have. Imagine your shock has a combined travel of 0-10 for this overly simplified scenario:

• Under normal condition, your piston sits at level 5, in the middle. When you shock droops, your piston now goes down to level 3 and hit bump stop at level 1. When you go over an obstacle, your piston now goes up to level 8 and hit bump stop at level 9.
• Now, when you increase preload to create more lift, your piston sits at level 4 lower than in the middle as you extend the shock for higher ride height. When you droop, your piston has less distance to go down before hitting bump stop at level 1. When you go over an obstacle, your piston now has slightly more distance to travel before the spring rate reaches maximum compression and stops your piston from continue to travel and complete the dampening stroke.
• With correct spring rates, the spring will be the one supporting the vehicle weight and push the piston back to its normal, intended position. Usually higher spring rates are needed when you have extra weights in the front, such as winch and/ or bumper. Alternatively, higher rated springs may be needed if your engine block is heavier (think EcoDiesel).

How do I know this? I found out the hard way on the 4runner. Because of this, I am reluctant about messing with my preload even though adding additional 0.5" probably won't affect my droop that much.

Typically, unless the shocks are specifically designed to achieve 3 or more inches of lift with longer shocks and shafts, your ride quality and suspension performance WILL suffer because you extending your suspension to achieve a lifted ride height. So the available suspension travel is reduced.
I am not aware of any off the shelf suspension that is specifically designed with longer shaft to do 3 or 4 inches as you are looking for. BDS has 3" kit but I suspect it is just regular Fox products with the preload collar cranked down, as I don't see them publish suspension travel figures.

3. Improve towing performance (6k boat and trailer). Rear end sags just below front and seems slightly unstable compared to my previous SUV.

Perhaps some helper air bag can help. Or stiffer rear springs. Or adjustable shocks. Can't really offer much in this category because we don't tow that heavy and the customers who do... they do with HD trucks.

4. New wheels with offset to move wheels out slightly (just barely outside of well). Maybe this by itself improves tire rub?

Please see the "Trimming" section of this thread:

35x12.5R18 on Performance Orientated Lift - a Overview, Procedure, and Review.

In this thread, I will be detailing the info regarding the tire choice, suspension choice, and trimming needed. Note: My procedure involves irreversible modification to the truck, so consult a professional of your choice and proceed at your own risk. This thread is to SHARE HOW I DID mine and...

5thgenrams.com

Generally speaking, -12mm/ 4.5" backspace is the perfect offset to avoid rubbing imo. Any more than than you will poke out too much, and you will rub in the front. On the other hand, any less (0 or even positive) will tuck your wheel in more, causing you to rub. -12mm is the offset that strikes the perfect balance, and also the offset that allows you to go wider tires in the future.

I don't need anything super high-end given my driving habits. Reliability and ride are my two main priorities. I would rate current ride as adequate (outside of when I tow). I have some cash to spend, but would like to only spend on what I need to accomplish the goals in mind. Having said that, I'm willing to spend what I need to not have to do this again in the next 5 years.

I do recommend Fox 2.5 even though the package offers way more than you need. Fox 2.5s are rebuildable and adjustable, so you can change the high speed and low speed compressions as you prefer. My set of Fox 2.5 on my street setting (see the Fox thread I linked above) is firm enough for me to corner quite hard with no body roll, yet plushy enough to eat up the bumps, pot holes, dips, train tracks, and whatnot. I can even go through those double dips on the road at 40-50 MPH without touching bump stop (with full weight) or catching air. In addition, you can also firm up the rear end (aka, my offroad setting) to help with towing as well, giving you the best of both worlds (empty vs loaded/ towing).
I do not recommend Icon at all, simply because whenever we have leaky shocks under 1 year, it's always Icons. Friend's friend also had his Icon sheered off first time on the trail days after install. And we also had an Icon Billet UCA broke off within 12 months.
I'm also on the fence regarding airbags... airbags you will need to install compressor and run airlines, and they can be potential points of failure. But they are great for towing though.

Any thoughts or suggestions on things to consider are greatly appreciated. I'd like to have some ideas for when I meet with the shop guys next week.

 

[CHeYeNNe71]

Thanks for the replies guys. You've given me some things to chew on.

I do most things DIY. I take care of most of the work on our cars/boat/house etc., but I've never tackled a suspension beyond adding the rear Hellwig bar upgrade on my truck. Something to consider.

Please confirm that I'm thinking about this the right way.... Since I have the off road package, any lift I replace with will be minus 1" over the existing clearance. In other words, when I added 2" spacers, that effectively gave me a 3" lift over stock. So if I go with a 3" lift kit (and throw out the spacers), I will be at the same clearance I have now. Someone please correct me if that is wrong.

Honestly there are many YouTube videos about the install and since you're only doing a swap, DIY is very easy.