what is the better way to go?

[ramhouston]

so this a pretty long question but here’s an example given. would it better for a user to install a 3 inch front strut spacer onto their vehicle or would it be better to do a 2 inch strut lift combined with a 1 inch strut spacer for a total of 3 inches? the question may sound a little confusing but i hope it makes sense? TIA!

 

[SD Rebel]

so this a pretty long question but here’s an example given. would it better for a user to install a 3 inch front strut spacer onto their vehicle or would it be better to do a 2 inch strut lift combined with a 1 inch strut spacer for a total of 3 inches? the question may sound a little confusing but i hope it makes sense? TIA!

When you say strut spacer, are you saying the top hat spacer than doesn't preload the spring?

I'm a bit confused when you say strut lift in your 2nd scenario but still mention a strut spacer as well. I'm assuming you actually mean the top hat spacer and the strut spacer in your first scenario is actually spring preload spacer?

In either case, your 2nd scenario is better, you don't want a large spring spacer preloading your spring and giving you a much harsher ride. By limiting the spring spacer height and getting the rest from a top hat is the better scenario.

Most basic kits come with a top hat spacer first for that reason. If you want more lift, you can then add a spring preload. Which is a very similar strategy that ReadyLift uses on their RAM leveling kits. Their basic 2" Level is top hat only, their 3.5" lift then adds a spring preload spacer and UCAs.

 

[Shots]

As noted above I'd go with the strut lift (top hat) only. They make tall enough spacer to do that without using a pre-load spacer which will harshen the ride. Granted, doing a combo will accomplish the same goal, but I don't see the need for it.

Another option is to replace the struts with longer ones, such as Bilstein 5100 which is a very popular choice too. If you do that, I'd skip the top hat. Again, you can get a long enough strut to accomplish the goal with that alone.

I can't think of any reason to combine the two methods of lift unless you're going beyond the height available of one or the other. And in that case I think I'd look at a more complete lift than just a spacer anyway, because at that point you need to start looking at correcting the geometry of the suspension and driveline.

 

[ramhouston]

yeah i figured what i said may have been little confusing but let me rephrase it Lol.
example given:
bilstein 5100’s on 2 inch setting plus a 1 inch top hat spacer or should one just install a 3 inch top hat spacer and call it a day? i hope it makes more sense this time Lol

 

[SKT Customs]

There’s nothing wrong with a 3” top spacer, just make sure to get UCAs designed for a level. If you want to get a longer strut for the small increase in travel/performance, don’t get Bilstein 5100s or anything that is listed as an “adjustable strut from 0-x inches”. Reason is, the Bilsteins are designed for the factory coil to fit (and be useable with 0 all the way to almost 3 inches of lift)- this means the actual strut assembly is the same size as stock and the only way you’re getting lift is from preloading the coil. Instead, get a full 2 or 3” lifted strut with a new coil and full assembly. The first options that come to mind are Rough Country, Fox, or King. Anything else and I’d just save the money and get the top spacer

 

[SKT Customs]

And I’m saying that from experience because I have the Bilsteins on my Ram lol. They’re preloaded on level 5 (1.7”) and I can honestly say it did nothing to the ride quality. It probably got slightly worse from the preload but their shocks are a little better so it balanced it out. Either way, there’s no point in doing that vs a 3” spacer where you’ll keep your factory ride anyway. Just get UCAs no matter what. The mopar ones will work and they’re dirt cheap.

 

[ramhouston]

There’s nothing wrong with a 3” top spacer, just make sure to get UCAs designed for a level. If you want to get a longer strut for the small increase in travel/performance, don’t get Bilstein 5100s or anything that is listed as an “adjustable strut from 0-x inches”. Reason is, the Bilsteins are designed for the factory coil to fit (and be useable with 0 all the way to almost 3 inches of lift)- this means the actual strut assembly is the same size as stock and the only way you’re getting lift is from preloading the coil. Instead, get a full 2 or 3” lifted strut with a new coil and full assembly. The first options that come to mind are Rough Country, Fox, or King. Anything else and I’d just save the money and get the top spacer

i definitely was looking at some 2.5+ inch coilovers but damn they are costly for sure as opposed to the tophat spacer method. trade off is that the ride becomes “harsh” as most would say and i am trying my best not to go down that route Lol.

 

[SKT Customs]

i definitely was looking at some 2.5+ inch coilovers but damn they are costly for sure as opposed to the tophat spacer method. trade off is that the ride becomes “harsh” as most would say and i am trying my best not to go down that route Lol.

The ride shouldn’t change with a top hat spacer and UCAs, you’re not affecting spring rate or shocks at all, and the UCA is helping you keep most of your travel

 

[ramhouston]

is it true though that too big of a top hat spacer increases the chances of my shocks snapping due to the bumpstop not being able to come into contact??

 

[SKT Customs]

I’m not an expert - so without getting into all the nitty gritty, this is just my humble opinion: if you plan on off-roading the truck hard enough to where you’ll be bottoming out the shocks or over extending them, I would get coilovers and UCAs designed for 2.5” lift. A 3” spacer will do just fine daily driving or taking some dirt roads, but it’s not intended for “real” off road use. If you’re going to be utilizing all available suspension travel the last thing you want is to starve the up travel with a spacer, even though UCAs will help regain a bit of it. So just think about what you’re using the truck for. Daily driver? Spacer is fine. Moderate off roading? Spend more for coilovers. It’s better than spending the money later down the line when you break something from going too hard with your stock suspension and spacer lol

 

[WXman]

I've done the Bilstein 5100s on 2 or 3 rigs. I've done top hat spacers on several rigs. I will say that the Bilsteins ALWAYS affect ride quality. There's no way around it. They are simply built to be heavier duty shocks. They are firmer and will ride stiffer. They are also more expensive to install because the coils have to be removed from the struts. The top hat spacers on the other hand can be done at home pretty quickly, and you get to reuse your shocks so there is less change in ride quality.

In terms of slapping or knocking noises while off-road, neither is better than the other. Doesn't matter how you get the 3", the fact is in the end it's still 3". Like someone else said, at 3" you need different upper control arms.

 

[ramhouston]

I’m not an expert - so without getting into all the nitty gritty, this is just my humble opinion: if you plan on off-roading the truck hard enough to where you’ll be bottoming out the shocks or over extending them, I would get coilovers and UCAs designed for 2.5” lift. A 3” spacer will do just fine daily driving or taking some dirt roads, but it’s not intended for “real” off road use. If you’re going to be utilizing all available suspension travel the last thing you want is to starve the up travel with a spacer, even though UCAs will help regain a bit of it. So just think about what you’re using the truck for. Daily driver? Spacer is fine. Moderate off roading? Spend more for coilovers. It’s better than spending the money later down the line when you break something from going too hard with your stock suspension and spacer lol

would you consider the sh*tty streets of Houston as off roading Lol?

 

[SKT Customs]

would you consider the sh*tty streets of Houston as off roading Lol?

Lol no