Sway or Light Front End

[nc_beagle]

I'm still relatively new to towing travel trailers, with a 6x12 cargo trailer (converted to camper) being my previously largest tow. Our camper is 25' (hitch to rear bumper) and 8' wide. 10' high. So, I don't know if I'm experiencing sway or a too-light front-end.

Based on a CAT weighing, I know that my WDH is not putting enough weight back on the front and I need to work on that.

I'm typically going 55mph, sometimes 60 max and I have a sensation through the wheel that I can't quite describe other than it's a little more like driving a boat, with the steering slightly number. The sides of the front window on my camper line up perfectly visually with the sides of the back openable window in the truck. When I feel the sensation, I don't notice the trailer swaying in any of the mirrors, but I still slow down, as you're supposed to do when you feel sway starting.

What does the start of trailer sway feel like compared to not having enough weight put back on the front of the truck?

Based on this limited information I can provide, do you think that my issue is all with the WDH not putting enough weight back up front?

 

[IvoryHemi]

How much weight are we talking off the front end? Which WDH?

 

[Dragonmaster13]

Sounds like too light a front end to me and you have scale numbers to prove it. Start by adding more to the front axle with hitch adjustment and that will solve your problem.

 

[nc_beagle]

How much weight are we talking off the front end? Which WDH?

It's an Andersen WDH.

Steer Axle
3520# No Trailer
3280# Trailer, No WDH
3340# Trailer w/WDH

You and/or others have said something like 100# is the most you want taken off the front axle so I'm 80# over that. Does tightening the chains help with weight distribution? I know it does for sway control. I've been tightening them at least 5 threads past finger tight, as suggested in the installation instructions.

FWIW, the camper has a GVWR of 6200# and we're traveling about 500-600# below that. I do make an effort to balance the load left/right and favor the front of the trailer. We really don't have a lot of added weight behind the rearmost axle.

 

[IvoryHemi]

It's an Andersen WDH.

Steer Axle
3520# No Trailer
3280# Trailer, No WDH
3340# Trailer w/WDH

You and/or others have said something like 100# is the most you want taken off the front axle so I'm 80# over that. Does tightening the chains help with weight distribution? I know it does for sway control. I've been tightening them at least 5 threads past finger tight, as suggested in the installation instructions.

FWIW, the camper has a GVWR of 6200# and we're traveling about 500-600# below that. I do make an effort to balance the load left/right and favor the front of the trailer. We really don't have a lot of added weight behind the rearmost axle.

-180 lb is pretty light, Anderson says their system isn’t designed for weight distribution. I’d try a different WDH to kick more weight up front.

 

[Dragonmaster13]

You’ve got the same problem my sister had with the Anderson. She swapped it out after 2 trips as the white knuckling and not enough in the front axle was unsolvable with this hitch. You can try cranking down the threads a little more, but she went 20 more cranks and only added 35 lbs back to the front and it was still white knuckled. The bushings were so distorted that they looked like they were going to pop.

 

[nc_beagle]

-180 lb is pretty light, Anderson says their system isn’t designed for weight distribution. I’d try a different WDH to kick more weight up front.

View attachment 115631

Thanks. I think you've mentioned that to me about Andersen in another thread. Interstate is the only part of towing this camper I'm a little uncomfortable with simply for this feeling and the concern that it was sway related. I'm fine with spending on another setup if it means a better interstate drive.

 

[nc_beagle]

You’ve got the same problem my sister had with the Anderson. She swapped it out after 2 trips as the white knuckling and not enough in the front axle was unsolvable with this hitch. You can try cranking down the threads a little more, but she went 20 more cranks and only added 35 lbs back to the front and it was still white knuckled. The bushings were so distorted that they looked like they were going to pop.

Thanks, DM. I guess the Andersens are great in certain circumstances, but not my particular vehicle/trailer combination.

 

[User_86191]

You've done a very good and important step of making 3-pass CAT scale measurements. That is the most accurate way to dial-in a hitch. The goal is to restore load on the front axle to help with steering. Based on your CAT numbers, the trailer removes 240 lb (3520 - 3280) from the front axle. That is an expected number for a trailer of your size. But your hitch is restoring only 60 lb (3340 - 3280). That means that you are achieving only 25% (60/240) weight redistribution, and that is a small effect. The 2022 Ram owner's manual (page 217) says to aim for about 66% weight redistribution back to the front wheels (that is the same as the front rising only 1/3 of the gap between the normal position and when trailer on just the ball). Equalizer hitch, which is what I run, says to aim for 50-100% weight redistribution, and some would say to aim for the upper end of that range. My own experience is that produces a comfortable and stable towing experience, even on interstates at normal driving speeds. It will also mean that some load is transferred back to the trailer axles, which helps slightly with payload. But again, the goal is to restore load on the steering axle. While I have no personal experience with the Anderson hitch, you might consider doing what you can to increase redistribution with it. Spend a few hours in the lot at a CAT scale (I do).bbIf that is not successful, you might explore alternative hitches such as Equalizer, Blue Ox, and others. And that will open up another good conversation!

 

[AngelPhoenix]

Glad I found this thread. I have been debating WDH's and the Andersen looked very appealing, but the trailers I'm looking at are even heavier than what the OP is using and if he's having trouble getting proper weight distribution, I think I better steer clear...

 

[nc_beagle]

You've done a very good and important step of making 3-pass CAT scale measurements. That is the most accurate way to dial-in a hitch. The goal is to restore load on the front axle to help with steering. Based on your CAT numbers, the trailer removes 240 lb (3520 - 3280) from the front axle. That is an expected number for a trailer of your size. But your hitch is restoring only 60 lb (3340 - 3280). That means that you are achieving only 25% (60/240) weight redistribution, and that is a small effect. The 2022 Ram owner's manual (page 217) says to aim for about 66% weight redistribution back to the front wheels (that is the same as the front rising only 1/3 of the gap between the normal position and when trailer on just the ball). Equalizer hitch, which is what I run, says to aim for 50-100% weight redistribution, and some would say to aim for the upper end of that range. My own experience is that produces a comfortable and stable towing experience, even on interstates at normal driving speeds. It will also mean that some load is transferred back to the trailer axles, which helps slightly with payload. But again, the goal is to restore load on the steering axle. While I have no personal experience with the Anderson hitch, you might consider doing what you can to increase redistribution with it. Spend a few hours in the lot at a CAT scale (I do).bbIf that is not successful, you might explore alternative hitches such as Equalizer, Blue Ox, and others. And that will open up another good conversation!

Thanks for all this. I've been exploring other hitch options and working myself in circles. We spent a couple years figuring out the perfect camper for us, then I spent about five months researching and configuring the perfect truck (plus ordering time.) I figure I'll find my perfect wdh by December!

 

[Seadoorxpguy]

Just buy a hensley or a propride. They are worth every dollar. I went through multiple hitches before getting my setup dialed in

 

[nc_beagle]

Just buy a hensley or a propride. They are worth every dollar. I went through multiple hitches before getting my setup dialed in

I did the math on a propride and it meant leaving my wife at home in terms of our payload. I can't remember what my numbers were, but I did run it by someone on this board who confirmed. Note: this assumes I have the camper fully loaded and 12% tongue weight. I'm ok with spending more if it means a better drive/tow.

I did hear back from Andersen. Before I give up, I'm going to try removing/dropping a link from the chains and tightening them a little more. Will probably do it and go to the scales and be prepared to spend a couple hours playing with it.

 

[AngelPhoenix]

I did the math on a propride and it meant leaving my wife at home in terms of our payload. I can't remember what my numbers were, but I did run it by someone on this board who confirmed. Note: this assumes I have the camper fully loaded and 12% tongue weight. I'm ok with spending more if it means a better drive/tow.

I did hear back from Andersen. Before I give up, I'm going to try removing/dropping a link from the chains and tightening them a little more. Will probably do it and go to the scales and be prepared to spend a couple hours playing with it.

Interested to see how this goes for you. I'd have the same problem with my street queen Limited and ProPride, would probably tow like a dream, if there's nothing else in my truck including myself lol

 

[sdramsey24]

You've done a very good and important step of making 3-pass CAT scale measurements. That is the most accurate way to dial-in a hitch. The goal is to restore load on the front axle to help with steering. Based on your CAT numbers, the trailer removes 240 lb (3520 - 3280) from the front axle. That is an expected number for a trailer of your size. But your hitch is restoring only 60 lb (3340 - 3280). That means that you are achieving only 25% (60/240) weight redistribution, and that is a small effect. The 2022 Ram owner's manual (page 217) says to aim for about 66% weight redistribution back to the front wheels (that is the same as the front rising only 1/3 of the gap between the normal position and when trailer on just the ball). Equalizer hitch, which is what I run, says to aim for 50-100% weight redistribution, and some would say to aim for the upper end of that range. My own experience is that produces a comfortable and stable towing experience, even on interstates at normal driving speeds. It will also mean that some load is transferred back to the trailer axles, which helps slightly with payload. But again, the goal is to restore load on the steering axle. While I have no personal experience with the Anderson hitch, you might consider doing what you can to increase redistribution with it. Spend a few hours in the lot at a CAT scale (I do).bbIf that is not successful, you might explore alternative hitches such as Equalizer, Blue Ox, and others. And that will open up another good conversation!

I agree with every bit of this. Love my Equalizer and I can't state enough how important front axle loading and then tongue weight are. Also making sure you understand that it's a different fulcrum and lever than a non-WDH bumper pull situation.

It took me a couple months to dial in my travel trailer (32' tip to tail) and I had similar float on the highway and when decelerating quickly. The above solved it for me. Tows like it's on rails now.

I'll also offer that I find the air bags helped quite a bit as did some real tires. The stock tires are just... mushy.

Safe and steady travels out there!

 

[silver billet]

I did the math on a propride and it meant leaving my wife at home in terms of our payload. I can't remember what my numbers were, but I did run it by someone on this board who confirmed. Note: this assumes I have the camper fully loaded and 12% tongue weight. I'm ok with spending more if it means a better drive/tow.

I did hear back from Andersen. Before I give up, I'm going to try removing/dropping a link from the chains and tightening them a little more. Will probably do it and go to the scales and be prepared to spend a couple hours playing with it.

The hensley arrow is 190 pounds. Not light, but your current hitch must weigh something too. If the extra 100 pounds makes or brakes your payload then you might not have enough truck. Alternative thought, better to be just over payload with a proper WDH, than under payload with a very poor WDH.

 

[nc_beagle]

The hensley arrow is 190 pounds. Not light, but your current hitch must weigh something too. If the extra 100 pounds makes or brakes your payload then you might not have enough truck. Alternative thought, better to be just over payload with a proper WDH, than under payload with a very poor WDH.

I don't disagree. My Andersen is 50-60 pounds. I get 740# for the trailer tongue weight if I'm at the trailer's 6200# max and aiming for 12%. So that's 930# of my 1317# payload. My tonneau cover is 70#, taking me over 1000#.

Our recent trips have been at about 5500# trailer weight and I honestly don't see it going much higher than that for a given trip. The camper has quite a bit of storage that we are far from filling. Maybe I'm using payload as an excuse to balk at the nearly $4K purchase price of a propride.

 

[Essbaum]

I would second the equalizer hitch. For under $1k, it dialed in easily and towed great.

 

[nc_beagle]

I would second the equalizer hitch. For under $1k, it dialed in easily and towed great.

I've been seriously looking at that one.

 

[Bt10]

... balk at the nearly $4K purchase price of a propride.

I dropped my cookie when I read that! Are you kidding me? If they got any sales, then PT Barnum was right...

Equalizer myself.