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Oil

GFK51

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I know that oil choice is a hot topic but if you had your choice between Redline or Mobil 1, which one would you choose?
 
That depends on you. Do you want a warranty? Don't deviate from the FCA "MS 6395" speced oil.

If you dig around, you'll find that the MS spec is watery thin and a complete money grab. I'm one of those cult-like Redline 5w-30 fans. There are hundreds of used oil analysis reports showing that better than factory spec oils exist, Redline is one of those and has the extra benefit of killing the dreaded hemi tick.

So you have two options:
- run MS certified oil and keep your warranty
- run a better oil, void your warranty, but have an engine in better shape when the warranty expires.
 

Lots of discussion here
 
That depends on you. Do you want a warranty? Don't deviate from the FCA "MS 6395" speced oil.

If you dig around, you'll find that the MS spec is watery thin and a complete money grab. I'm one of those cult-like Redline 5w-30 fans. There are hundreds of used oil analysis reports showing that better than factory spec oils exist, Redline is one of those and has the extra benefit of killing the dreaded hemi tick.

So you have two options:
- run MS certified oil and keep your warranty
- run a better oil, void your warranty, but have an engine in better shape when the warranty expires.
For this reason, I went with one of those poor-performing, low-cost, Chrysler-certified oils...Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. ;)
 
That depends on you. Do you want a warranty? Don't deviate from the FCA "MS 6395" speced oil.

If you dig around, you'll find that the MS spec is watery thin and a complete money grab. I'm one of those cult-like Redline 5w-30 fans. There are hundreds of used oil analysis reports showing that better than factory spec oils exist, Redline is one of those and has the extra benefit of killing the dreaded hemi tick.

So you have two options:
- run MS certified oil and keep your warranty
- run a better oil, void your warranty, but have an engine in better shape when the warranty expires.
There are several options that meet the spec and are extremely high quality. In reality the MS-6395 spec is pretty pedestrian and most (if not all) API certified oils should be able to meet it, though not all brands pay for the FCA specific approval (requires a 1.5 year fleet test). In reality it is highly unlikely that using an API certified oil that doesn't formally carry the MS6395 spec will cause you any warranty issues.

With that said if you want both very high quality AND ultimate CYA go with something like Pennzoil UP.
 
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I'm finally at the point of running out of the free changes. I debated forever between PUP and Royal Purple. I am finally resting on the RP for these reasons:
1. I think equal protection as PUP. Both meet the specs and carry the label;
2. Easily available at my local auto parts store to get both the 5 qt and the extra 2 quarts equaling the 7 qts required.
3. I don't plan on doing this myself, and can easily check the oil after and see that RP was used. Without watching the oil change of the PUP, I couldn't be 100% sure it was used, even with empty jugs returned.
 
Stay away from olive and vegetable. Some say peanut is the way to go for its higher smoke point, but I prefer animal based fats for the flavor.

Something to ponder, if olive oil is made from olives, what is baby oil made from?
 
There are several options that meet the spec and are extremely high quality. In reality the MS-6395 spec is pretty pedestrian and most (if not all) API certified oils should be able to meet it, though not all brands pay for the FCA specific approval (requires a 1.5 year fleet test). In reality it is highly unlikely that using an API certified oil that doesn't formally carry the MS6395 spec will cause you any warranty issues.

With that said if you want both very high quality AND ultimate CYA go with something like Pennzoil UP.

I listed 5w-30, so not only does it not meet the spec it's also the "wrong" weight.

I agree that with most dealers the choice of oil shouldn't be a problem but I like to point it out just in case somebody gets the wrong dealer. Ultimately its the OP's decision, just want him to be aware of the potential problem, these trucks aren't cheap!
 
I listed 5w-30, so not only does it not meet the spec it's also the "wrong" weight.

I agree that with most dealers the choice of oil shouldn't be a problem but I like to point it out just in case somebody gets the wrong dealer. Ultimately its the OP's decision, just want him to be aware of the potential problem, these trucks aren't cheap!
Ah, I see you said 5w-30...read too fast. But yea, CYA is use MOPAR oil or something with an official cert (PUP for example). Lots of oils say they meet (or are recommended for) MS6395 but don't actually pay for the certification. RedLine is one of those, so buyer beware if that's a concern of yours.
 
I mix it up.

I’ll buy 5 qt jugs of whatever is on sale at Wal-Mart (Mobil 1, Valvoline SynPower, Pennzoil Ultra).

Then stock up on cases of the 1 qt 6-pack of Mobil 1 @ Costco when they run $15 off
 
I never tried Redline, but I used Mobile 1 in my 2004 Sierra from new. At 100000 miles I replaced the heads because one of them cracked because of a casting flaw. There was no discernible cylinder wear at all. The cross hatch was perfect and there was no ring ridge at the top of the cylinders.
When I sold the truck, the engine was perfectly fine, but the body was rusting away pretty quickly.
Gerry
 
I use Mobil 1 because its very good, easy to get (walmart), cheap ($23 a 5 qt jug at walmart) and almost always has a $10 rebate.
Anyone thinking they are getting any benefit from redlie (yes, red lie), royal purple, amsoil, motul or any other boutique oils are only fooling themselves. You will NEVER push the 5.7 or this truck to the point where you could are past the capabilities of regular dino oil.
I use Mobile 1 5w30 in my built Z06 (700+Hp N/A) and regularly turn 7700 rpm, I've had the heads off for upgrades 3 times and the cross hatch is still on the cylinder walls and I beat the F out of this engine. This car does runway races or track days where its WOT any time the engine is running and Mobil 1 has stood up to this abuse perfectly.

I had a Daytona Shelby that I had turned up the boost on (25+psi), blew a head gasket and pushed a freeze plug out racing ejecting 100% of the coolant, I drove that car 10 miles home with the temp gauge pegged. The next day I pulled the head and turbo replaced the head gasket and put it back together, changed the oil then ran it. Oil that came out looked brand new and engine had no leaks and held pressure. That sold me on Mobil 1, this truck will never be pushed as hard as that car was nor my Z06, M1 is more than fine
 
I mix it up.

I’ll buy 5 qt jugs of whatever is on sale at Wal-Mart (Mobil 1, Valvoline SynPower, Pennzoil Ultra).

Then stock up on cases of the 1 qt 6-pack of Mobil 1 @ Costco when they run $15 off

Even at $15 off, Walmart is still cheaper after the rebates. I bout 3 5 qt jugs at walmart for $22 each. After the Mobil oil rebate (10 per jug) I'm at 15 Qts for $36, about the same as Costcos $15 off $42 for 6 qts

2 rebates per household, I use 2 different email addresses and my home and work addresses and opt for the virtual prepaid Visa. Just got 2, one for $10 and one for $20
 
Anyone thinking they are getting any benefit from redlie (yes, red lie), royal purple, amsoil, motul or any other boutique oils are only fooling themselves. You will NEVER push the 5.7 or this truck to the point where you could are past the capabilities of regular dino oil.

Not true. Have you ever towed with a 5.7? They got very hot at times, > 250F which is the limit for regular oil. If you're towing and getting 250+ on regular oil, well, your engine is taking a beating. That's also why many of us run 5w-30 because it's a thicker oil and the watery thin 20w doesn't cut it.

Besides, UOA proves there is a big difference between oils. If you don't want to accept those reports, that's your choice, but the facts are the facts.
 
you cant go wrong with Mobil 1, Penzoil , Redline or Royal Purple. I have used all but Redline for many years and have had no issues with any of them, they are all high quality oil. With my 2021 I only use Amsoil signature witch I think is the best, but at the end of the day its more important to change your oil when called for no matter what oil you use. Even Amizon oil tested very well for protection.
 
Not true. Have you ever towed with a 5.7? They got very hot at times, > 250F which is the limit for regular oil. If you're towing and getting 250+ on regular oil, well, your engine is taking a beating. That's also why many of us run 5w-30 because it's a thicker oil and the watery thin 20w doesn't cut it.

Besides, UOA proves there is a big difference between oils. If you don't want to accept those reports, that's your choice, but the facts are the facts.

You think 250° is hot for oil? Who many people do you think tow often and get their oil that hot use regular oil? The point is that the vast majority of trucks in use would be ok with dino oil and most certainly would not likely come close to the limits of any of the syntherics. You're not impacting 5w20 doing anything in this truck
 
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I’ve used Mobil 1 in multiple vehicles since new with well over 200k no issues, with 5k intervals. And available anytime at Walmart.
 
I'm a big proponent of Mobil 1, especially Mobil 1 High Mileage, once your vehicle gets over 75,000 miles, I have a lot of old vehicles that would be expensive to keep if it wasn't for that oil.

However, for my RAM, I would go with Shell Rotella Gas Truck Synthetic 5W-20. It meets FCA requirements with great oil analysis results for gas truck engines and oil comparison test, and only $23 at Walmart for a 5 qt jug . If that oil wasn't around, I would go with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-20, kind of the standard bearer for RAM Hemis for a while now.
 

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