Anti-Spin Spin Differential vs. Electronic Locking Rear Axle?

[Kirk 427]

This may be a silly question but what is the difference between the two? And which one will be better for pulling a boat trailer out of a lake with a sandy ramp when the rear tires are in the water thanks

 

[Snofire]

Limited slip compared to electronic lock (posi rear end). Limited is going to be 1 wheel and if the truck detects slip it will engage the other wheel. Electronic Lock is making the rear end both wheels spin, but your limited by speed on this. If you dont' have a reason for the electronic lock don't get it. If your truck has 4wd, then just put in Auto4 and pull it out. That's my plan

 

[Richard320]

This may be a silly question but what is the difference between the two? And which one will be better for pulling a boat trailer out of a lake with a sandy ramp when the rear tires are in the water thanks

Limited slip will wait for one tire to start slipping before it locks the two axles together. The electronic one needs you to anticipate slippage and engage it so both rear axles are locked together. Either one will work for you because the ESC will take over and lay on the brake if one tire starts spinning anyway. I think the electric locker is more for rockcrawling where you may have a tire hanging in space.

 

[glasswagon]

Also you shouldn't turn on the electric locker after you are stuck, right? That's what I've read. You need to turn it on before being stuck or whatever, correct me if I'm wrong. That is a huge negative for me, hard to predict when you will get stuck if you aren't off-roading and just driving around.

 

[2powerwgns]

Also you shouldn't turn on the electric locker after you are stuck, right? That's what I've read. You need to turn it on before being stuck or whatever, correct me if I'm wrong. That is a huge negative for me, hard to predict when you will get stuck if you aren't off-roading and just driving around.

The rear lockers on the power wagons function as a LS when not engaged . It's an elocker combined with a Torsen type LSD.

Yeah, you should lock them when you're looking at a situation. The thing is they don't want you to be flogging the truck, spinning the tires and then hit the button.

 

[Quint]

Similar to others above, is that if you don't know what the benefits of lockers are then you don't need it.

 

[brian42]

The rear lockers on the power wagons function as a LS when not engaged . It's an elocker combined with a Torsen type LSD.

Yeah, you should lock them when you're looking at a situation. The thing is they don't want you to be flogging the truck, spinning the tires and then hit the button.

I wish I had a Torsen with my e-locker!!

You can engage the e-locker (push the button) whenever you want as the computers onboard will make sure it happens safely. You can run with the axle locked in 4LO up to 40 mph and up to 25 mph in any other drive configuration (although you have to be below 20 mph to lock the axle).

If you are going to one of the two options based solely on your boat scenario I would pick the e-locker hands down. Put it in 4WD Auto and back down the ramp, load the boat, hit the e-locker, and drive straight out. Just make sure you turn off the e-locker before you turn.

From the Owner's Manual:

 

[Reighnman]

I have 4wd with e-lock, wish I had just gotten LS for the reasons mentioned. Would be great to have both :/

 

[VectorZ]

I've had both and I much prefer the limited slip. There have been many threads about this, do a search for more information.

 

[ElkoNV]

Guess I am on the opposite side of the fence. I prefer the E-locker, been off-roading for 35 years, and think they are the greatest thing since sliced bread. I have had numerous traction devices over the years, everything from open spool and using the break, to Detroit Lockers. To the OP question. For a boat ramp I prefer 4 Hi or 4 Low, not 4A. 4A is going to try to move the torque to the front or the rear computer-controlled. 4 Lock is going to drive both the front and rear wheels regardless. Boat ramps are notoriously slippery, I have also been putting boats in and out of the water for 35 years too. My MO for pulling out a boat. Back in 2 Hi, put the truck in N, set the parking brake, remove foot from brake make sure parking brake holds, put the truck in park, get the boat on the trailer. Once back in the truck, put the truck in N, engage 4 low for a heavy boat 21'+ cabin cruiser 4 hi for a light boat, 20' Bass boat, put the truck in D, disengage the parking brake, easy on the gas now because you have all torque you need, pull the boat up to the staging area, put the truck in 2 hi. I know all the experienced boat guys have a system that works for them, if you are new to 4x4's and boat ramps I thought this could help keep someone off of the next youtube boat ramp fails video. If you have 2wd and e locker, pretty similar, just engage E-locker instead of 4 Lo. Once that rear axel is locked it is not going to want to turn on pavement, in a corner one wheel will need to skid across the ground, but most ramps are really straight up to an area it is safe to disengage.