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What would you pay for this truck?

Cupped_up

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‘21 CC BH with 5.7 non-etorque, 4x4 anti spin, night edition, level 2 equip. Bucket seats. CPO with only 2K miles?

mans this is a “realistically, in today’s market” type of question with high priced vehicles
 
‘21 CC BH with 5.7 non-etorque, 4x4 anti spin, night edition, level 2 equip. Bucket seats. CPO with only 2K miles?

mans this is a “realistically, in today’s market” type of question with high priced vehicles

You are usually better off buying new with the dealer and factory discounts vs barely used that won't have the manufacturer rebates. It's almost always cheaper to buy a new vs. one that is 1-2 years used.

They need to be taking at least $15,000 off original MSRP to make it worth it. Even more in a regular market, though supplies are tight, you still find deals with $10,000 off MSRP on new delivery of dealer stock, sometimes more.
 
Price out a brand new truck with those options and check the invoice on it. Then figure 5% below that and see where the CPO comes in. My guess is you will be better off buying brand new.
 
The msrp is 51,500 and they are asking 43k

Then go onto Edmunds.com and build out the truck, that should get you an idea on what Invoice on the truck is. Then make your decision.
 
Offer 39 or 40k and see where it goes from there.
 
The msrp is 51,500 and they are asking 43k

Invoice is roughly .922 of MSRP

So estimate invoice at 47,483
Less 5% is 45,108 minus $4k in rebates would be $41,108

You can get another 1% offf with tread lightly or affiliate plus $1k bonus cash coupon is out there

So I’d say $43k for used is too much
 
$41,200 is what they just came back with. This is also 12hr drive from me, which is fine for the right price.
 
$41,200 is what they just came back with. This is also 12hr drive from me, which is fine for the right price.

Well is it exactly what you want or do you think it is a good deal?
 
Remember, this is a weird market right now, with tight inventory, don't expect some of the rebates you would typically get in normal conditions. That being said, I would call one of your local dealerships, ask for the "Fleet Manager", and tell him your situation, the truck and price they want to sell it to you.

Ask him if he has a new truck where you can beat or come close to that deal and see what he says. Again, ask for and speak with the Fleet Manager, not a regular salesman.

Just a note, I got my truck brand new during the heavy rebate 3rd quarter, It had a MSRP of $53,000, I got it for $39,000.
 
$41,200 is what they just came back with. This is also 12hr drive from me, which is fine for the right price.

So roughly $1k more than ordering new. Does it have the exact options you want? Plus is you don’t have to wait for it to be built
 
I’m actually with my local fleet manager right now discussing pricing.
The only downside to the CPO is it has the anti spin, where I’d prefer the elocker. However, this is only going to be for 5% of actual driving time
 
I’m actually with my local fleet manager right now discussing pricing.
The only downside to the CPO is it has the anti spin, where I’d prefer the elocker. However, this is only going to be for 5% of actual driving time

You could use 4 Auto for that. Limited slip will still do the job
 
I’m actually with my local fleet manager right now discussing pricing.
The only downside to the CPO is it has the anti spin, where I’d prefer the elocker. However, this is only going to be for 5% of actual driving time
You could use 4 Auto for that. Limited slip will still do the job
E-Locker is cool, but keep in mind, you cannot use it above 20-25 MPH unless you are in 4 Low. In 4 Low, you can use it up to 40-45 MPH, I believe. If you go above those speeds, or it thinks you are going above those speeds (think spinning wheels in snow/mud), it will unlock it automatically.

The speed limits are what killed the e-locker for me. I chose the anti-slip for that reason.
 

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