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Transmission drain and refill - Lifetime fluid

Bwarren2

Bwarren2

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I need to change my fluid, apparently the dealers have kits now. My dealer said some people had some issues after they changed their fluid. Who has succcesffully done this and what do you need to watch out for? I have 2019 Rebel. I assume the kit is new fluid and new drain pan? Any info is appreciated.
 
There are plenty of good write ups on here and other websites with step-by-step instructions. Make sure you properly fill the transmission, that's the big gotcha on these trucks its not just fill and go. I don't remember the process off hand but its got several steps. Aside from the fill process its pretty simple. Trucks needs to be level, open fill port, then drain port. Remove the old pan either by dropping the exhaust Y pipe or raising the transmission off the rear crossmember ( This is what I did ). Then install new pan, fill it till fluid starts coming out the fill port, and then follow the all important fluid fill/level check procedure. Took me like 4 hours start to finish. I'm slow lol. I also upgraded to a PPE aluminum pan that holds 2 more quarts than factory pan. If you tow a lot that would be something to consider. And it has a replaceable $25 filter so you don't have to spend hundreds on a new plastic pan next time (if you plan on keeping the truck that long...)
 
An actually transmission flush is what gets a bad rap that involves basically forcing new fluid, air and can push loose material out and into places it shouldn’t be… thats when you’ll have problems.

The better route is a simple trans pan drop/ filter replacement that will replace only about 6 qts of fluid with new fluid.. this wont screw anything up unless you pooch the reinstall or use the wrong fluid. Between the torque converter and fluid in the lines is would really be about 9 qts but only way do completely change would be either the (terrible flush) or doing a pan drop/new fluid, drive around some miles then do a drain and fill again.

Heres a kit


Those fluids are suppose to be compatible with the factory ZF fluid but keep it mind your still gonna have 3 qts or so of the old fluid still left unless you do like above and do another drain and fill within a short time. It’s your choose.

Installation



You can also do just go with either Lifeguard (ZF fluid) or Mopar 8-9 spd fluid (rebranded Zf fluid) and go with a PPE trans pan for the benefit of replacement filters will now only cost $30 minus fluid instead of having to buy a new Oem pan/filter (they are attached together).


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PurpleRT said:
An actually transmission flush is what gets a bad rap that involves basically forcing new fluid, air and can push loose material out and into places it shouldn’t be… thats when you’ll have problems.

The better route is a simple trans pan drop/ filter replacement that will replace only about 6 qts of fluid with new fluid.. this wont screw anything up unless you pooch the reinstall or use the wrong fluid. Between the torque converter and fluid in the lines is would really be about 9 qts but only way do completely change would be either the (terrible flush) or doing a pan drop/new fluid, drive around some miles then do a drain and fill again.

Heres a kit


Those fluids are suppose to be compatible with the factory ZF fluid but keep it mind your still gonna have 3 qts or so of the old fluid still left unless you do like above and do another drain and fill within a short time. It’s your choose.

Installation



You can also do just go with either Lifeguard (ZF fluid) or Mopar 8-9 spd fluid (rebranded Zf fluid) and go with a PPE trans pan for the benefit of replacement filters will now only cost $30 minus fluid instead of having to buy a new Oem pan/filter (they are attached together).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Thank you for including links because I'm to lazy to do that anymore unless they ask me for them:ROFLMAO:
 
PurpleRT said:
An actually transmission flush is what gets a bad rap that involves basically forcing new fluid, air and can push loose material out and into places it shouldn’t be… thats when you’ll have problems.

The better route is a simple trans pan drop/ filter replacement that will replace only about 6 qts of fluid with new fluid.. this wont screw anything up unless you pooch the reinstall or use the wrong fluid. Between the torque converter and fluid in the lines is would really be about 9 qts but only way do completely change would be either the (terrible flush) or doing a pan drop/new fluid, drive around some miles then do a drain and fill again.

Heres a kit


Those fluids are suppose to be compatible with the factory ZF fluid but keep it mind your still gonna have 3 qts or so of the old fluid still left unless you do like above and do another drain and fill within a short time. It’s your choose.

Installation



You can also do just go with either Lifeguard (ZF fluid) or Mopar 8-9 spd fluid (rebranded Zf fluid) and go with a PPE trans pan for the benefit of replacement filters will now only cost $30 minus fluid instead of having to buy a new Oem pan/filter (they are attached together).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
don’t change the torque converter fluid right?
 
Only way to really do it is with an actually flush (which is a roll of the dice), or doing another drain/fill or two again after driving a few miles after the first initial drain/fill /filter change but with the price of the correct ZF fluid… probably not worth it. Especially if you decide to go with a bigger capacity aftermarket pan.
 
first off, replace that crap plastic pan with the built in filter, really? Get the PPE pan, excellent pan, drain bolt is located in a spot where the exhaust cross over pipe is not blocking it. (idiot engr design) drive the truck around get the fluid up to temp, jack up, drain, the fill bolt is on the rite side of the tranny, another dumbass location, rite next to the cat converter, where you burn your hand off. Use a pressure pump to pump fluid in (ATF4+) dont need to use the $$MOPAR$$ fluid. Top off til it spills out. Run (cycle) the gears thru. Last step, truck on level ground jack up the rite side of the truck, this will cause the fluid in the tranny to lean to the left, top off fluid one more time, done. Just remember, you never ever get all the fluid out of anything on the hemi, the oil pump sump holds negative pressure in the pickup tube, almost a whole qt, since the drain bolt housing on the inside of the pan is about a full 1/2" high. The tranny lines that run into the front radiator, holds at least 16 oz of fluid. So, bottom line? You can waste oil by pouring in new oil, run the truck around yp to temp, then drain. Same process for the tranny. Costly but it will get the old fluids out mostly.
 
Believe it or not, works for me, been doing it now the past 4 yrs. In fact, I do this process on some of the hydraulic lines on my aircraft.
 
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