Starlink mini USB-C connection

[mtjag]

I'm guessing the USB connections located under the radio and in the rear console are not USB-C. I'm trying to figure out where to plug in my 12v DC adapter from my Starlink mini inside my RAM. Anyone got suggestions? Also, does anyone use their Starlink mini just sitting on the dash?

 

[vincentw56]

I'm guessing the USB connections located under the radio and in the rear console are not USB-C. I'm trying to figure out where to plug in my 12v DC adapter from my Starlink mini inside my RAM. Anyone got suggestions? Also, does anyone use their Starlink mini just sitting on the dash?

I have both USB-A and USB-C on my 2020.

 

[mtjag]

I have both USB-A and USB-C on my 2020.

Are yours labeled? I have two up front and two behind but nothing is labeled as such. It sure would be great if one was a USB-C.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Are yours labeled? I have two up front and two behind but nothing is labeled as such. It sure would be great if one was a USB-C.

If you can't tell, best not to plug anything into them. There are both standard USB, and USB-C ports.

 

[vincentw56]

Are yours labeled? I have two up front and two behind but nothing is labeled as such. It sure would be great if one was a USB-C.

They don't need to be labeled. You can tell the difference just by looking at them.

 

[BlueHemi1500]

USB-A ports are rectangular with square corners. A plastic piece will also block about half of the port.
USB-C ports are smaller than USB-A ports and are rectangular with rounded corners and no blocking piece. This is also the same shape of port on most recently released/produced cell phones for charging/data sharing. Please take a look there and compare it with the information above.

BlueHemi1500

 

[kapinallinen2]

This is on a 2019.

 

[mtjag]

USB-A ports are rectangular with square corners. A plastic piece will also block about half of the port.
USB-C ports are smaller than USB-A ports and are rectangular with rounded corners and no blocking piece. This is also the same shape of port on most recently released/produced cell phones for charging/data sharing. Please take a look there and compare it with the information above.

BlueHemi150

I suppose I exposed my ignorance about USB ports, but I thank you for that clarification. I thought those ports didn't have the wattage requirement (100W 20V, 5A )to power the Starlink and were just for phone charging. That solves my issue of running our new Starlink mini in the truck! Thanks again!

 

[boogielander]

i highly doubt those ports push enough juice to run starlink.

but even if they do I wouldn't run anything power demanding to the factory ports. i much rather run a direct fused power from the battery and body ground it than have something power hungry go through the computer controlled ports. that's what i do for all overland build customers who want to run power demanding stuff like starlink and fridge.

 

[kapinallinen2]

Not even close, 5 volts at 3 amps if lucky.
The 120 vac outlet can handle about 400 watts, could he plug into that with an ac to dc power supply that conforms to the USB-C PD3.0 standard?

 

[boogielander]

Not even close, 5 volts at 3 amps if lucky.
The 120 vac outlet can handle about 400 watts, could he plug into that with an ac to dc power supply that conforms to the USB-C PD3.0 standard?

doubt that too.
i tried to charge my ecoflow with the 120 vac outlet once and that stopped working before Ecoflow gets over 100w lol

 

[mtjag]

doubt that too.
i tried to charge my ecoflow with the 120 vac outlet once and that stopped working before Ecoflow gets over 100w lol

The Starlink mini comes with that 120 vac plug to DC and pulls a max of 45watts. I was just hoping to be able to run it off of the USB-C with the USB-C cable, but that sounds like a pipe dream based on what you guys are saying.

 

[mtjag]

i highly doubt those ports push enough juice to run starlink.

but even if they do I wouldn't run anything power demanding to the factory ports. i much rather run a direct fused power from the battery and body ground it than have something power hungry go through the computer controlled ports. that's what i do for all overland build customers who want to run power demanding stuff like starlink and fridge.

So, do I just order a USB-C outlet with an inline fuse and run that to the battery, through the firewall?

 

[boogielander]

The Starlink mini comes with that 120 vac plug to DC and pulls a max of 45watts. I was just hoping to be able to run it off of the USB-C with the USB-C cable, but that sounds like a pipe dream based on what you guys are saying.

you can try but i highly doubt that's gonna work because those are for charging phones not running anything power intensive.
also how are you going to secure it inside the cab? sitting on the dash is for sure a disaster waiting to happen.

 

[boogielander]

So, do I just order a USB-C outlet with an inline fuse and run that to the battery, through the firewall?

two ways:
1. run 12 or 10 AWG power and ground through firewall, attach to a Blue Sea Fuse Block with Ground. In the engine bay, body ground and use a Blue Sea Circuit Breaker (40A should be plenty enough with rooms for future upgradability short of a high output DC-DC charger). This wayy, you can manually disconnect it while the vehicle is not running so you do not drain the battery. Remember, BLUE SEA EVERYTHING. Not the cheap chinese knockoffs. If you want to run chinese knock offs, double the Amperage rating because china spec.
2. run 12 or 10 AWG power and ground through the firewall, attach to Blue Sea Fuse Block with Ground. In the engine bay, utilize a 40A relay system. Power from battery with inline fuse, body ground it. Attach 12v trigger to something ign switched in the fuse box and connect the 10 or 12 AWG power and ground to the relay output. This way, the relay will complete the circuit and feed power to the unit only when the ignition is on, and cut power when the ignition is off.

Then, attach USB-C outlet to the Blue Sea Fuse Block with Ground and connect it accordingly, or if it has a split pigtail just connect it accordingly.

But the question is, why do you need to run starlink when driving? Like, if you need navigation, there's Gmap offline mode, there's Gaia GPS, there's OnX, there's stand-alone GPS units, and there's in-dash unit. If you need emergency contact, then Garmin inReach is one of the few solid choices. I just completed 12.7k miles to Alaska and Arctic Ocean. Majority of that trip, other than in southern/ populated areas of AK and lower 48, which maybe accounting for 5k miles of the entire trip at best, I had no cell signal (no cell signal in Canada because I turned it off to not incur international roaming charges), and there was zero problem navigating the remaining 7.7k miles of the most remote areas. I only ran starlink at night at camp, not when i was driving. so it made me really curious why is there a need to run starlink while driving?

 

[FastBlackRam]

Doesn't the starlink device come with a power adapter of some sort? If it can plug into a standard AC outlet just use the one in your truck. The AC can have a maximum of 400 watts. I don't think the starlink takes greater than 400 watts of power. Like others have said the USB-C ports don't have much capacity.

 

[boogielander]

Doesn't the starlink device come with a power adapter of some sort? If it can plug into a standard AC outlet just use the one in your truck. The AC can have a maximum of 400 watts. I don't think the starlink takes greater than 400 watts of power. Like others have said the USB-C ports don't have much capacity.

the problem is those 400w of outlet sometimes reduce output when vehicle is in drive. OP can certainly try it and if it works, then it's great.

 

[mtjag]

two ways:
1. run 12 or 10 AWG power and ground through firewall, attach to a Blue Sea Fuse Block with Ground. In the engine bay, body ground and use a Blue Sea Circuit Breaker (40A should be plenty enough with rooms for future upgradability short of a high output DC-DC charger). This wayy, you can manually disconnect it while the vehicle is not running so you do not drain the battery. Remember, BLUE SEA EVERYTHING. Not the cheap chinese knockoffs. If you want to run chinese knock offs, double the Amperage rating because china spec.
2. run 12 or 10 AWG power and ground through the firewall, attach to Blue Sea Fuse Block with Ground. In the engine bay, utilize a 40A relay system. Power from battery with inline fuse, body ground it. Attach 12v trigger to something ign switched in the fuse box and connect the 10 or 12 AWG power and ground to the relay output. This way, the relay will complete the circuit and feed power to the unit only when the ignition is on, and cut power when the ignition is off.

Then, attach USB-C outlet to the Blue Sea Fuse Block with Ground and connect it accordingly, or if it has a split pigtail just connect it accordingly.

But the question is, why do you need to run starlink when driving? Like, if you need navigation, there's Gmap offline mode, there's Gaia GPS, there's OnX, there's stand-alone GPS units, and there's in-dash unit. If you need emergency contact, then Garmin inReach is one of the few solid choices. I just completed 12.7k miles to Alaska and Arctic Ocean. Majority of that trip, other than in southern/ populated areas of AK and lower 48, which maybe accounting for 5k miles of the entire trip at best, I had no cell signal (no cell signal in Canada because I turned it off to not incur international roaming charges), and there was zero problem navigating the remaining 7.7k miles of the most remote areas. I only ran starlink at night at camp, not when i was driving. so it made me really curious why is there a need to run starlink while driving?

thanks much for that!!

 

[mtjag]

thanks much for that!! Just so that we can run our phone, when necessary, in some canyons out here in the West.