What's new
By:
5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Sleekster lightbar mount

Bob.

Bob.

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2021
Messages
321
Reaction score
313
Points
63
Age
62
Location
Connecticut
here you go, I have seen it in two builds. imo it depends on the lights you choose. I feel pods look better than the light bar. One is an install video, the other just to compare
 
Thanks for the reply.
Lately I'm having 2ND thoughts on my current position of my lightbar
It's a license plate mount that is super strong, but I'm afraid some dummy backs into me at a parking lot destroying my $750 Rigid light.

Perhaps mounting it higher would be a better place for it.

So I have been looking what's available. I ordered the sleekster bar last night. I hope it goes on with the tow hooks and its an easy mod.

They claim it does, and they seem very solid. I figure I have room to add 2 small diode dynamics pods one on each side of the main Rigid light for extreme side lighting in a flood configuration.

Here is that license plate mount with the Rigid bolted to it. That lightbar in full sunlight casts shadows on sun light surfaces 40 feet away. It's unbelievably bright. Made in the USA and the diodes are all focused in.
At night on back roads, the deer and foxes literally turn away from it, as if it hurts their eyes. Good for them and my front end!
Rigid 2.jpg2022040318391278-7798242699231345763-IMG_0010.JPG
 
Here is the Rigid light shining out several hundred yards with no streetlights or houses in the area.
 

Attachments

  • 2022040702385545--7459074057304826347-IMG_0017.JPG
    2022040702385545--7459074057304826347-IMG_0017.JPG
    158.6 KB · Views: 37
I also contemplated doing the light bar just like you have it but for the same concern i decided againts it. The new mount you ordered goes with the tow hooks so no worries. That is a pretty strong light bar you got there.
I ended up going with the hidden under the grill. Currently its unplug. Trying to decide what multiple light controller to go with since i didn't like the switch set up once i added the pillars lights.
20220830_190403.jpg
 
jl13 said:
I also contemplated doing the light bar just like you have it but for the same concern i decided againts it. The new mount you ordered goes with the tow hooks so no worries. That is a pretty strong light bar you got there.
I ended up going with the hidden under the grill. Currently its unplug. Trying to decide what multiple light controller to go with since i didn't like the switch set up once i added the pillars lights.
View attachment 138127
Click to expand...
my post never posted....

I believe I said the Rigid light would not fit behind the grill because it seems to thick.
 
Last edited:
The sleekster lightbar is on!

Installation was fairly easy. Remove the tow hooks, place the plate installed on the frame then reattach the tow hooks. The lightbar fits on the mounting points for the tow hooks. Then you need to wiggle the parts to align the lightbar. One side was a little stubborn, I wiggled some more then it dropped in where I could add the other 2 bolts. I slid out from the truck, checked the fit then went back underneath and tightened everything up. The bar fits like a glove. It's a nice addition and now I have protection for my Rigid lights. I added two smaller flood lights angled to shine the sides of the road.
I recommend the lightbar.
Here are the photos
 

Attachments

  • lightbar1.jpg
    lightbar1.jpg
    177.7 KB · Views: 103
  • lightbar2.jpg
    lightbar2.jpg
    187.7 KB · Views: 95
  • lightbar3.jpg
    lightbar3.jpg
    187.1 KB · Views: 91
  • lightbar4.jpg
    lightbar4.jpg
    189.2 KB · Views: 98
how is your wire set up. Did you push both light switches thru the fire wall or did you do any multiple switch light controller for them?
 
jl13 said:
how is your wire set up. Did you push both light switches thru the fire wall or did you do any multiple switch light controller for them?
Click to expand...

I pushed the wire thru the firewall near the steering wheel. That's easy to do.

When I put the light in last fall I used the auxbeam switch and relay. The auxbeam light itself filled with water so I threw it away and bought the Rigid light. So the wiring is fine. It came with a 30A fuse.

The main light now is a 20" Rigid 120313 which draws 215 watts and I added the D series pro 202113 flood lights which draw 60 watts. I tied it all together under the front bumper. One switch turns everything on. The whole light output now is 274 watts which draws around 20 amps, so that 30 amp fuse is fine and the original auxbeam wiring works fine.

I tied the wiring on the light bar with black nylon ties and fed the wiring in a wiring loom and directed it down the left side light bar and I fished it near the left side tow hook.

Originally I went into the lower grill, but I put a plug in the grill and for this wiring went towards the tow hook. The upper grill is sealed because of the automatic louver inside grill and wanted to just stay clear of it.

Only annoying part of the whole set up was that lower air dam. It's just enough in the way where it blocks your view of parts placement and I needed to use an extension with a universal to tighten all the bolts up.

It worked, just it takes a little longer than I wanted.

The light bar mount is of excellent quality. If anyone wishes to do the same I recommend the mod.

On this video I showed how I ran that wire thru the firewall,
 
Last edited:
You can make out the wiring going down the bar in this picture

lightbar5.jpg
 
Bob. said:
I pushed the wire thru the firewall near the steering wheel. That's easy to do.

When I put the light in last fall I used the auxbeam switch and relay. The auxbeam light itself filled with water so I threw it away and bought the Rigid light. So the wiring is fine. It came with a 30A fuse.

The main light now is a 20" Rigid 120313 which draws 215 watts and I added the D series pro 202113 flood lights which draw 60 watts. I tied it all together under the front bumper. One switch turns everything on. The whole light output now is 274 watts which draws around 20 amps, so that 30 amp fuse is fine and the original auxbeam wiring works fine.

I tied the wiring on the light bar with black nylon ties and fed the wiring in a wiring loom and directed it down the left side light bar and I fished it near the left side tow hook.

Originally I went into the lower grill, but I put a plug in the grill and for this wiring went towards the tow hook. The upper grill is sealed because of the automatic louver inside grill and wanted to just stay clear of it.

Only annoying part of the whole set up was that lower air dam. It's just enough in the way where it blocks your view of parts placement and I needed to use an extension with a universal to tighten all the bolts up.

It worked, just it takes a little longer than I wanted.

The light bar mount is of excellent quality. If anyone wishes to do the same I recommend the mod.

On this video I showed how I ran that wire thru the firewall,
Click to expand...
good video, yea passing thru the fire wall is easy on these trucks, I just didn't find a good locations to my liking for the two separate switches.
I will relook at things, maybe I will do as you and use 1 single harness for both lights and also see if the rc wireless controller can work to power both on. I think it might be possible. Got 3 harness on hand to play around with.
 
You have switches built into the overhead visor area. I wouldn't have a clue on wiring them up but if you have a wireless type transmitter then that would work. One of my switches are programmed for my garage door as I type this. I think there are 4 switches up there.

So your wireless controller could be the ticket in your application.
 
Only a negative about the light bar. If you have the parking sensors in the front bumper of your truck,, that could trigger alarms and you will be forced to turn them off. In my truck I don't have the bumper sensors.

Funny thing, when I first got my truck my wife's Jeep has the parking sensors. I thought I did too and tried backing up into the garage door. I got close, closer and then lost my nerve and put it in park. I said the thing don't tell you how close you are. Maybe it's off or something?

I'm glad stopped or I would be replacing a garage door.... Look at the bumper, NO SENSORS!
 
Bob. said:
You have switches built into the overhead visor area. I wouldn't have a clue on wiring them up but if you have a wireless type transmitter then that would work. One of my switches are programmed for my garage door as I type this. I think there are 4 switches up there.

So your wireless controller could be the ticket in your application.
Click to expand...
I recently had my battery replace by the dealer after only 17 months under warranty. And the first few days it did something weird. So that has hold me up and given time to think about how to rewired things up.
A member here is using this guy, the bad thing is not water proof but its not expensive in case I go this route and decide to do something else later on I won't loose much $
AutoZone sells it as well, and yes it can be program into the garage door buttons
 
Cool switch. I like it.
Lay the control under the front seat or tie it up under the dash. That would keep it water proof. Run wires directly off the battery (as I did) so you can't be charged with damaging the electronics of the new truck. Once your off warrantee then you can wire it off of the fuse box without worries..
 
Bob. said:
I pushed the wire thru the firewall near the steering wheel. That's easy to do.

When I put the light in last fall I used the auxbeam switch and relay. The auxbeam light itself filled with water so I threw it away and bought the Rigid light. So the wiring is fine. It came with a 30A fuse.

The main light now is a 20" Rigid 120313 which draws 215 watts and I added the D series pro 202113 flood lights which draw 60 watts. I tied it all together under the front bumper. One switch turns everything on. The whole light output now is 274 watts which draws around 20 amps, so that 30 amp fuse is fine and the original auxbeam wiring works fine.

I tied the wiring on the light bar with black nylon ties and fed the wiring in a wiring loom and directed it down the left side light bar and I fished it near the left side tow hook.

Originally I went into the lower grill, but I put a plug in the grill and for this wiring went towards the tow hook. The upper grill is sealed because of the automatic louver inside grill and wanted to just stay clear of it.

Only annoying part of the whole set up was that lower air dam. It's just enough in the way where it blocks your view of parts placement and I needed to use an extension with a universal to tighten all the bolts up.

It worked, just it takes a little longer than I wanted.

The light bar mount is of excellent quality. If anyone wishes to do the same I recommend the mod.

On this video I showed how I ran that wire thru the firewall,
Click to expand...
Thanks for the video, I need to run wire thru the firewall for my heated wipers.
Tom
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Site Vendors

https://www.jasonlewisautomotive.com/

Members online

Total: 124 (members: 8, guests: 116)
Back
Top