Pedal Commander F'd Up My Truck

[RSConsulting]

Soooo...

Finally get around to installing my Pedal Commander. Now - I'm a bit more than a "shade tree mechanic" - my first job out of high school was in an independent VW shop, and I have pretty much a full shop in my garage (2 post lift, etc.) - so a plug-n-play item should be pretty easy?

RIght?

NOT!

Unplug pedal connector - plug in Y cable from the PC - away we go!

Start the truck and basically get EVERY CEL LIGHT on the dash lit up?

Like WTF?

Thought it might be a conflict between the PC & Tazer (even though everyone here says they are supposed to co-exist just fine). So I pull the Tazer and pull the - on the battery to reset everything.

So I look at the connector on the PC and see this:


Notice the 3rd pin down from the top looks a little mangled?

So I pull the pedal and see this:

Notice the 3rd pin up from the bottom is BROKEN? Yeah...

Luckily a dealer 30 minutes away had the part in stock:

Had to pay retail for it ($84 with sales tax - which is actually a RIPOFF, it's OVER MSRP on every site - but when your truck ain't running).

Nice day for a ride on the Slingshot anyways - thank the stars the weather was nice, and I have a spare toy to drive.

Got the pedal installed, no more popups, and the truck drives again. Hopefully the CEL will clear with the Tazer reset, otherwise I have to run by a friends shop with a WiTech and get it cleared.

So call to PC Monday to get the PC replaced with one WITHOUT A CRUSHED PIN, and try this AGAIN.

WORD TO THE WISE - CHECK YOUR PINS ON THE PEDAL COMMANDER BEFORE INSTALLING. It's pretty IDIOT PROOF, there is no way of breaking the pin unless you force it - and I DIDN'T. Check it by PLUGGING IT INTO ITSELF BEFORE INSTALLING.

Save yourself a dead pedal and paying retail for new one, or waiting for a cheap one to come in.

Rick

 

[whetrick1]

Soooo...

Finally get around to installing my Pedal Commander. Now - I'm a bit more than a "shade tree mechanic" - my first job out of high school was in an independent VW shop, and I have pretty much a full shop in my garage (2 post lift, etc.) - so a plug-n-play item should be pretty easy?

RIght?

NOT!

Unplug pedal connector - plug in Y cable from the PC - away we go!

Start the truck and basically get EVERY CEL LIGHT on the dash lit up?

Like WTF?

Thought it might be a conflict between the PC & Tazer (even though everyone here says they are supposed to co-exist just fine). So I pull the Tazer and pull the - on the battery to reset everything.

So I look at the connector on the PC and see this:
View attachment 40454

Notice the 3rd pin down from the top looks a little mangled?

So I pull the pedal and see this:
View attachment 40455
Notice the 3rd pin up from the bottom is BROKEN? Yeah...

Luckily a dealer 30 minutes away had the part in stock:
View attachment 40456
Had to pay retail for it ($84 with sales tax - which is actually a RIPOFF, it's OVER MSRP on every site - but when your truck ain't running).

Nice day for a ride on the Slingshot anyways - thank the stars the weather was nice, and I have a spare toy to drive.

Got the pedal installed, no more popups, and the truck drives again. Hopefully the CEL will clear with the Tazer reset, otherwise I have to run by a friends shop with a WiTech and get it cleared.

So call to PC Monday to get the PC replaced with one WITHOUT A CRUSHED PIN, and try this AGAIN.

WORD TO THE WISE - CHECK YOUR PINS ON THE PEDAL COMMANDER BEFORE INSTALLING. It's pretty IDIOT PROOF, there is no way of breaking the pin unless you force it - and I DIDN'T. Check it by PLUGGING IT INTO ITSELF BEFORE INSTALLING.

Save yourself a dead pedal and paying retail for new one, or waiting for a cheap one to come in.

Rick

I've had 2 pc's 1 on my 2016 Ram and now 1 on my 2019 Ram and haven't had a problem with either one. Did it plug easy or did you have to push hard to plug it in. With a mangled plug it should have been real hard to plug in. And if it wasn't easy to plug in I would have stopped right there.


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[Neurobit]

No issues with mine, and I remove mine every time it goes to the dealer. Perhaps the Mopar part was defective...

 

[NHjake98]

I just installed one on my Rebel...Man what a difference in throttle response!

 

[RSConsulting]

Feces occurs - mine had a bent pin on the PC side that plugs into the pedal. Could have happened to anyone - happens to have happened to me.

And I by far - NOT a novice wrench...

I'm just reporting so that folks who are getting one, remember to CHECK THE CONNECTORS so they don't end up in the same boat as me...

Rick

 

[Kicker]

Broken or just pushed up inside?

 

[whetrick1]

No issues with mine, and I remove mine every time it goes to the dealer. Perhaps the Mopar part was defective...

I don't remove mine I just set it to city and they haven't said anything about it.


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[RSConsulting]

Broken or just pushed up inside?

From the looks of it - the female pin in the PC connector was bent/mashed internally - causing the male in in the pedal to break off. I haven't ascertained if the pin is stuck in the PC connector - I want them to WARRANTY IT - so I didn't pull it apart (even though I have the de-pinning tools.).

Rick

 

[whetrick1]

From the looks of it - the female pin in the PC connector was bent/mashed internally - causing the male in in the pedal to break off. I haven't ascertained if the pin is stuck in the PC connector - I want them to WARRANTY IT - so I didn't pull it apart (even though I have the de-pinning tools.).

Rick

I don’t blame you there. If you mess with it they could say you messed it up. I’m sure they will send you a new one.


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[ramhead]

From the looks of it - the female pin in the PC connector was bent/mashed internally - causing the male in in the pedal to break off. I haven't ascertained if the pin is stuck in the PC connector - I want them to WARRANTY IT - so I didn't pull it apart (even though I have the de-pinning tools.).

Rick

I think what the other poster was saying is the male pin (on the OEM part you had to replace) looked like it was pushed in, not snapped off. It does looks like when the male pin met the out of whack female end, the male end got pushed back in internally the pressure pushing of them together - the top edge of the male pin looks like all the other pns and does not look like it snapped or sheared off.. Maybe the male pin could have been straightened & pulled back out with a needle nose but it was probably toast anyway since it was now loose and would not stay in place when mating connectors again.

 

[RSConsulting]

I think what the other poster was saying is the male pin (on the OEM part you had to replace) looked like it was pushed in, not snapped off. It does looks like when the male pin met the out of whack female end, the male end got pushed back in internally the pressure pushing of them together - the top edge of the male pin looks like all the other pns and does not look like it snapped or sheared off.. Maybe the male pin could have been straightened & pulled back out with a needle nose but it was probably toast anyway since it was now loose and would not stay in place when mating connectors again.

Looking closer at the connector - that would be correct.

Alls good in the hood. Just got off the phone with PC - they sent me a shipping label to return the bad one for refund. I got them to place an order for a new one- tat the "Black Friday" price - so I actually SAVED AN ADDITIONAL $30 over what I paid for the original one.

Excellent customer service - aside from replacing the pedal (which the pushed down pin DID PULL BACK OUT - so I guess I have a spare pedal now, unless I want to try and return it - after testing the original to see if it works), all good.

Rick

 

[JJRamTX]

If I am not mistaken can't you clear the CELs from the Tazer menu?

 

[gHiDoRa]

May the force be with you.

 

[RSConsulting]

If I am not mistaken can't you clear the CELs from the Tazer menu?

Yeah - it took a couple of sleep cycles for the CEL Light to go out. I expected it to clear immediately after running the CLEAR CEL function 2X.

OR - they just cleared on their own.

NOTE: THERE ARE SOME HIDDEN CEL's that will show in history when the dealer connects their dongle to the OBD port (mine does when the service writer checks it in - gathers history & whatnot).

There were some errors from when I was screwing around with the Tazer in initial config.

Rick