Ihateram25
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2024
- Messages
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Hello all, I am at a loss after everything I’ve tried, and even after reading all the forums I could so here’s what I’ve got, and input would be appreciated.
2019 ram 2500 bighorn, no power running boards.
About 2 months ago, push to start did nothing, a second time, nothing, third time the engine cranked and it started. I went to have the battery tested and the cca was low, even though that was not the problem because it wouldn’t even turn over, they said these trucks with push start won’t even try if voltage is too low. I bought a new battery and set it in the kitchen until I swapped it out. Truck was fine for about 4 weeks, so I wasn’t worried about it. This was obviously entering winter. This was also when I started driving the truck every day again, as opposed to every 2-3 days.
Then it got interesting. Went to leave and it cranked a little funky, but started. I told myself I’ll swap the battery when I get home an hour later. I wasn’t thinking and shut it off when picking up my son, and when going to head home, it just cranked and cranked but wouldn’t start. Looking back on it, that was the symptom of the low cca / battery needing replaced, but the voltage had to have been fine to even try.
I got a jump from a trash truck, and the guy hooked the leads up wrong on his end. I didn’t know… and think it was connected wrong for a few seconds. Once corrected and the truck started, all issue lights on the dash were on. I went straight home, swapped the battery, from there, the check engine light was on, but went out after 2 days. The third day, the truck wouldn’t start, nothing, no cranking, symptom of low voltage. My dad came over and gave me a jump start. I went and had the battery tested, battery’s fine, only code was low voltage.
The truck was fine for days at a time, and randomly would have the issue doing nothing when pushing the start button, but would actually turn over and start after 3 pushes.
I have been unsuccessful with milliamp checks because when I connect the battery lead in series, the truck comes to life and is too much for milliamp readings, and I can’t just switch from amps to milliamps without swapping lead ports. Plus, the amp reading is less than .1, but somehow shows OL in milliamps. I thought I found the problem when the glove box wouldn’t close all the way keeping the light on, so I just removed the bulb.
Then yesterday, I drove it 20 minutes away no problem, parked it. 2 hours later, nothing first two pushes, it started on the third push. While driving, I noticed the top glove box light is on. I’ve had the door open for 2 years since I’ve owned it, and never saw the light come on. I noticed if I close it almost all the way, the light goes out and I can then open it and it stays off. The next day, same thing, the light was on while driving. I parked, shut the truck off and was playing on my phone and 5 minutes or so later that’s when I saw the usb ports illuminate, shortly after the dash illuminated “press brake and push to start” then as it went out, the top glove box light flickered, about 5 minutes later, same thing, and again 5 minutes later. I went out this am, sat in the truck without starting it, and after about 5 minutes, the dash “press brake and push to start” came in for a few seconds and went out. Nothing after that.
During checks, and negative removed from battery, checking ohms to ground across all fuses, all have resistance except for the fuel pump, horn and ac clutch all which have 0ohms (dead short / closed) to ground. Seems strange, since they all work?
I don’t blame you for shaking your head, or not reading all of this.
2019 ram 2500 bighorn, no power running boards.
About 2 months ago, push to start did nothing, a second time, nothing, third time the engine cranked and it started. I went to have the battery tested and the cca was low, even though that was not the problem because it wouldn’t even turn over, they said these trucks with push start won’t even try if voltage is too low. I bought a new battery and set it in the kitchen until I swapped it out. Truck was fine for about 4 weeks, so I wasn’t worried about it. This was obviously entering winter. This was also when I started driving the truck every day again, as opposed to every 2-3 days.
Then it got interesting. Went to leave and it cranked a little funky, but started. I told myself I’ll swap the battery when I get home an hour later. I wasn’t thinking and shut it off when picking up my son, and when going to head home, it just cranked and cranked but wouldn’t start. Looking back on it, that was the symptom of the low cca / battery needing replaced, but the voltage had to have been fine to even try.
I got a jump from a trash truck, and the guy hooked the leads up wrong on his end. I didn’t know… and think it was connected wrong for a few seconds. Once corrected and the truck started, all issue lights on the dash were on. I went straight home, swapped the battery, from there, the check engine light was on, but went out after 2 days. The third day, the truck wouldn’t start, nothing, no cranking, symptom of low voltage. My dad came over and gave me a jump start. I went and had the battery tested, battery’s fine, only code was low voltage.
The truck was fine for days at a time, and randomly would have the issue doing nothing when pushing the start button, but would actually turn over and start after 3 pushes.
I have been unsuccessful with milliamp checks because when I connect the battery lead in series, the truck comes to life and is too much for milliamp readings, and I can’t just switch from amps to milliamps without swapping lead ports. Plus, the amp reading is less than .1, but somehow shows OL in milliamps. I thought I found the problem when the glove box wouldn’t close all the way keeping the light on, so I just removed the bulb.
Then yesterday, I drove it 20 minutes away no problem, parked it. 2 hours later, nothing first two pushes, it started on the third push. While driving, I noticed the top glove box light is on. I’ve had the door open for 2 years since I’ve owned it, and never saw the light come on. I noticed if I close it almost all the way, the light goes out and I can then open it and it stays off. The next day, same thing, the light was on while driving. I parked, shut the truck off and was playing on my phone and 5 minutes or so later that’s when I saw the usb ports illuminate, shortly after the dash illuminated “press brake and push to start” then as it went out, the top glove box light flickered, about 5 minutes later, same thing, and again 5 minutes later. I went out this am, sat in the truck without starting it, and after about 5 minutes, the dash “press brake and push to start” came in for a few seconds and went out. Nothing after that.
During checks, and negative removed from battery, checking ohms to ground across all fuses, all have resistance except for the fuel pump, horn and ac clutch all which have 0ohms (dead short / closed) to ground. Seems strange, since they all work?
I don’t blame you for shaking your head, or not reading all of this.
