PAC CH41, Do You Use A DSP or EQ after it?

[Rlandon]

For those running a PAC CH41 to power your aftermarket amps, are you running a DSP or EQ between the CH41 and amp(s)? If I'm correct the signal from the CH41 is flat so before I install my gear I'm thinking I need a way to tune or customize the sound. I have the CH01, CH41, JL 900/5, JBL 6x9's in the doors and a JL Stealthbox with 10's in the rear. I just want to be able to adjust for fader and custom curve to fine tune the sound. If you use something please let me know what brand and model number. I've always used JBL MS-8's in my Gen4 and other vehicles. May get another for the Gen5 unless there is something better?? Thanks!

 

[djevox]

The CH41’s manual states that it “prevents the need for summing and DSP devices”. Do you think you still need one?

 

[Rlandon]

The CH41’s manual states that it “prevents the need for summing and DSP devices”. Do you think you still need one?

The PAC website makes it confusing. On one line it states it provides a flat output but on another it states it allows the 3 band factory EQ to work via settings in the app. If so, that's not flat. I'd prefer to have a 7 band EQ (or greater) or a tunable DSP with white noise gen (like my old JBL MS-8 DSP w/31-band EQ) to tailor the sound for a favorable curve to me and the vehicle.

Benefits

• Simplifies amplifier installation
• Prevents the need for summing and DSP devices
• Provides factory sound system upgrade solution
• Provides flat audio output for a solid audio foundation <---------

Features

• It can be used to upgrade the entire sound system or just part of it thanks to the retention of the original amplifier
• Enables the addition of a subwoofer to an amplified sound system
• Variable volume, fade, balance, bass, mid and treble audio settings <------------
• Front, rear, sub preamp outputs (5 volt RMS)
• Customized OE bass, mid and treble center frequency selection <-------------
• Retains uConnect, Bluetooth audio, Navigation prompts, and all warning chimes
• Plug-n-Play installation
• Sublevel controller
• Optional TOSLINK optical output (APA-TOS1 sold separately)

I guess I'll have two adjustment knobs, one for the PAC and the other for the amp itself??

 

[Otto]

You will want to add an EQ/DSP after the PAC unit to highly customize the sound. Having the flat signal from that unit will give you a good starting point for tuning.

FWIW I haven't done my upgrade yet but used that same setup in my Grand Cherokee.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

 

[ekaz]

you can tweak the bands of the factory eq with the pac software. I would definitely put a dsp or eq after the pac. I have a helix that i'll be using.

 

[brewmastr]

I have a DSP after mine, I made existing gear work that I had of a Helix DSP Pro MKII, Mosconi 5/30 and Mosconi 4/10 with Audiofrog GB 3 way up front and JL stealthbox in rear. If i was not using existing gear I would have gone about it differently. How I would personally set this system up is get a Helix V-twelve and run optical out from ch41 to v-twelve and then a seperate mono block for the subs and then do speakers/components from there. It wont be knock your teeth out loud but it will be a great sound quality setup with compact gear that will fit nicely in the truck.

 

[ekaz]

I have a DSP after mine, I made existing gear work that I had of a Helix DSP Pro MKII, Mosconi 5/30 and Mosconi 4/10 with Audiofrog GB 3 way up front and JL stealthbox in rear. If i was not using existing gear I would have gone about it differently. How I would personally set this system up is get a Helix V-twelve and run optical out from ch41 to v-twelve and then a seperate mono block for the subs and then do speakers/components from there. It wont be knock your teeth out loud but it will be a great sound quality setup with compact gear that will fit nicely in the truck.

Reusing gear is exactly what I'm doing...helix dsp, and 3 JL HD amps.

 

[brewmastr]

Non E-torque no problem, My vehicle is E torque and it was all a very tight fit on the back wall with the battery and other modules that take up 60% of the wall

 

[Rlandon]

Thanks guys for the comments. I started running the wiring today. Amp wiring is nice and neat in the engine bay and ran inside the plastic tray along the door edge (after figuring out how to open it). Mine is etorque also so more wiring in those trays than non-etorque I assume?? Now to take out the rear seats and run the back seat wiring. Ran the power, remote turn on, and left speakers on the driver side trays and will run the 6-CH RCA's and speakers on the passenger side trays. Since I'm only using one amp, it makes it simple. Still looking for a good EQ that can be adjusted on the fly from the driver seat (not every source or song is mixed the same). I may try the app for the factory 3-band but most likely won't like it I'm sure. Door speaker wiring with new is going to be fun, but if I only get one a day complete it's progress. I'm retired anyway, so it's something to do, haha!

 

[Rlandon]

Non E-torque no problem, My vehicle is E torque and it was all a very tight fit on the back wall with the battery and other modules that take up 60% of the wall View attachment 113042

Is that Helix RCA in and out?

 

[Rlandon]

Reusing gear is exactly what I'm doing...helix dsp, and 3 JL HD amps.

I'm using an old JL HD900/5 I've had in a box for years. I bought it used and don't even know if it works. Hope so! It has the box, docs, and all the parts but the serial is scratched out. Guess I could bench test it first.

 

[brewmastr]

no optical in from the CH-41 and rca out

 

[ekaz]

I'm planning on putting e

I'm using an old JL HD900/5 I've had in a box for years. I bought it used and don't even know if it works. Hope so! It has the box, docs, and all the parts but the serial is scratched out. Guess I could bench test it first.

I bought an HD amp that turned out to be a fake, didn't even have a serial number on it. That said, it worked just fine.

 

[ekaz]

Thanks guys for the comments. I started running the wiring today. Amp wiring is nice and neat in the engine bay and ran inside the plastic tray along the door edge (after figuring out how to open it). Mine is etorque also so more wiring in those trays than non-etorque I assume?? Now to take out the rear seats and run the back seat wiring. Ran the power, remote turn on, and left speakers on the driver side trays and will run the 6-CH RCA's and speakers on the passenger side trays. Since I'm only using one amp, it makes it simple. Still looking for a good EQ that can be adjusted on the fly from the driver seat (not every source or song is mixed the same). I may try the app for the factory 3-band but most likely won't like it I'm sure. Door speaker wiring with new is going to be fun, but if I only get one a day complete it's progress. I'm retired anyway, so it's something to do, haha!

You can use the factory speaker wiring for most of it if you want. Otherwise, I asked a similar question, and there is room in the door molex to drill out a hole to run new wire into the door.

 

[Rlandon]

You can use the factory speaker wiring for most of it if you want. Otherwise, I asked a similar question, and there is room in the door molex to drill out a hole to run new wire into the door.

Prefer not to cut or tap into the factory speaker wiring. Should I decide later to sell the truck it's an easy swap back (when I win the lotto and buy the TRX).

 

[ekaz]

Prefer not to cut or tap into the factory speaker wiring. Should I decide later to sell the truck it's an easy swap back (when I win the lotto and buy the TRX).

This might work for you then: https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/aph-ch03
Connect this to your amp and plugs into the existing harness.

 

[Rlandon]

This might work for you then: https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amplifier-integration-harness/aph-ch03
Connect this to your amp and plugs into the existing harness.

Sorry if I seem to pick your response apart but need to clarify how this will all connect and run as I hope it will. The dash, rear overhead, and factory sub speakers will still be powered from the Alpine oem amp. The doors and stealthbox will feed from the aftermarket amp. I'm using the CH41 from the 12" to provide the 6-CH signal to the JL amp. I have a CH01 to block the ANC but won't need it with the CH03, if I read all this correctly?? From the aftermarket amp the speaker output will feed into the CH03 harness and power the four door 6x9's. The stealthbox (on a direct feed) will go direct from the JL amp.

So if I read the CH03 instructions right, I'll determine which wires from the factory amp will power the dash/overhead and tie those together on the harness. The JL amp speakers will feed the remaining harness speaker wires for the doors.

I called PAC today to make sure the CH03 was not just another summing device (output) and that it would feed the oem speaker wiring (input) from an aftermarket amp plus act as a CH01. I was told yes, so it's on the way from Crutchfield (cheapest price).

I'm trying to get the mental picture in my head of how this will all connect so I'm not frying electronics on a brand new truck or smoking the new audio gear.

 

[ekaz]

Hmmmm.....since you've invested in the ch41 and a dsp (at least looks that way), I would suggest getting another 4 channel amp and bypass the OEM amp and remove the OEM sub. I would also consider replacing the dash and rear overhead speakers too.
I don't think you'll be happy with a dsp just to control the doors and subs, plus trying to blend it in with the OEM stuff will take some work.
As for your question, the CH03 would allow your to connect the outputs of the amp to the CH03 and then plug that into the factory speaker wire harness, which may be more trouble if you're just replacing the door speakers.
I guess my question is what are your goals cause it sounds like we're throwing a bunch of parts at things and making it more complicated.

 

[Rlandon]

Hmmmm.....since you've invested in the ch41 and a dsp (at least looks that way), I would suggest getting another 4 channel amp and bypass the OEM amp and remove the OEM sub. I would also consider replacing the dash and rear overhead speakers too.
I don't think you'll be happy with a dsp just to control the doors and subs, plus trying to blend it in with the OEM stuff will take some work.
As for your question, the CH03 would allow your to connect the outputs of the amp to the CH03 and then plug that into the factory speaker wire harness, which may be more trouble if you're just replacing the door speakers.
I guess my question is what are your goals cause it sounds like we're throwing a bunch of parts at things and making it more complicated.

Trying to feed the door speakers from the JL amp using the oem wiring. If correct the CH-03 is the one for that? Everything else I have a handle on and have all the wiring run as of today. Seats are out and stealthbox is ready to go in first thing tomorrow morning. Then the JL amp and start making connections. I won't power it at the battery until all wiring is connected to the speakers and polarity tested. I have a PAC three-way test tool to make that easy.

I didn't get a DSP (yet). Since the CH41 has the adjustable software, I'll try that first for sound quality and if needed look at a JL TWK-88. I'm sure I'm overthinking this whole process, I always do. Gives an old retired geezer something to think about and do during the day. If my truck would fit in the shop I'd be out there now.

Oh, dash speakers have all been replaced with JBL's. The helped some but not enough. Didn't do the rear overheads.

 

[Rlandon]

My old audiophile days back in the 80's. Bridged Carver amps pushing 4000W through four Bose 901's. It was fun watching the house lights dim at only half power. The floor speakers were for the TV only. This is what happens when you live in Japan for several years.