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Oil sensor

mikelpatt

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Anyone having oil sensor problems? Did first oil change. Filed as specified. Oil level indicator showed right at the correct level. A couple hundred miles later apparently some of the oil magically disappeared. Said add on quart. I added one quart. Oil level indicator didn't move. Added another quart, again nothing. At this point I am not adding another drop because if I blow the seals we all know Ram would point the finger at me and deny everything. I honestly have had enough of this truck. Like everyone else, love it when its actually right but why are we dealing with this stuff within the first few thousand miles. My truck was in the shop the first probably two months because they crushed the wire harness putting in the middle console which wrecked havoc with outlets and steering wheel lights. I truly regret buying it now. 2025 Ram 1500.
 
there is an oil level update procedure. warm engine, let sit a few mins on level ground. turn ignition to run and wait 4 minutes. turn off the power. that is supposed to reset the oil level to whatever the current level is. It is spelled out in the manual.
 
Yeah my oil level indicator in my 2012 Audi S4 works much better and is far more precise...down to 1/8 quart I think. When I changed the oil I drained it all out and then added 7.5 quarts which is spec for this engine. That's the best we can do.
 
Did you measured in 7.5 quarts.Did you fill the filter as well and count that amount as well. In other words .5 to fill the oil filter and 7 quarts into the fill neck….Never mind the oil gauge.You need to drain that 2 quarts asap.I would not over fill this powertrain.
 
Did you measured in 7.5 quarts.Did you fill the filter as well and count that amount as well. In other words .5 to fill the oil filter and 7 quarts into the fill neck….Never mind the oil gauge.You need to drain that 2 quarts asap.I would not over fill this powertrain.
Yes sir. That's exactly what I did and it still reads 1/4 low.
 
mine sat at 1 bar below max from the factory and also after my first oil change.
Same. I don't like it...I have both in the Audi but only use the dipstick to see what the oil looks like since I have confirmation from the last 13 years of ownership that the electronic monitoring is spot on.
 
I have no issues with it... all other engine parameters are electric nowadays (temp/pressure/rpm). Keeping the oil level below MAX is probably best as well, less chance of frothing and windage.
 
After talking with a tech from a CDJR dealership service dept.He stated that they have never seen the full mark after the factory fill and that the owners manual picture show full or “OK” at the 3/4 mark on the dash gauge.When they do a oil change they fill the filter and meter 7 quarts in…Also notice the one quart low mark on the gauge,that is quite a swing from oil level OK…
 

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yea when I got my truck it was full to the max line then it dropped one bar. I just got my second oil change today and it still shows one bar from the max. If correct, that oil level is fine it's just odd that it does not move.
 
After talking with a tech from a CDJR dealership service dept.He stated that they have never seen the full mark after the factory fill and that the owners manual picture show full or “OK” at the 3/4 mark on the dash gauge.When they do a oil change they fill the filter and meter 7 quarts in…Also notice the one quart low mark on the gauge,that is quite a swing from oil level OK…
Wow someone actually looked at the owners manual, to actually understand how their truck operates, rather than thinking it was an issue.
 
I have noticed a few here who think there is something wrong.Most are not trainned on the Atlantis-Hi Canbus software.Most of the issues here have already a software with a self heal meaning if it does not see the MIL code again it will clear the light and just stored it for when the customer comes in for servicing the service writer will take the list of codes and build a work order on it will be up to tech to decide it there is a issue…most of the complaints I see here are already on the STAR entry record which is assigned to a engineer for a fix most will be either OTA while driving in the back ground and some at your dealership with a emission MIL issue
 
Note to engineers: If you find yourself taking something that is very simple and has worked for decades and totally complicating it, you are probably ****ing up. Please stop.
You mean an oil level sensor that has been in use by other manufacturers for 20+ years without issues? The only thing complicated about it is the fact that's it's something new to you. If anything, it's easier for people with no mechanical ability because they don't even have to open the hood
 
Nice try at putting words in my mouth, but no, that's not what I mean OR said. According to at least one poster above, some of these sensor systems work better than others, with the ram setup being at the bad and of the spectrum. Perhaps I should rephrase what I said-if you're going to take something that is very simple and has worked for decades and change it, at least make it work right, from the start. It seems Audi got it right 13 years ago. It reminds me of the advent of electronic controls in washing machines and dryers-any appliance repair technician I have talked to on the subject (2 or 3) has said that the failure rate of the electronics is FAR higher (and more expensive to repair) than the old mechanical timers. Anytime you get electrical engineers involved to "fix" something that wasn't broken to begin with, you get what you get. Reckon how complex and expensive it is to diagnose an electronic oil level monitoring system vs a dipstick and tube?
 
Nice try at putting words in my mouth, but no, that's not what I mean OR said. According to at least one poster above, some of these sensor systems work better than others, with the ram setup being at the bad and of the spectrum. Perhaps I should rephrase what I said-if you're going to take something that is very simple and has worked for decades and change it, at least make it work right, from the start. It seems Audi got it right 13 years ago. It reminds me of the advent of electronic controls in washing machines and dryers-any appliance repair technician I have talked to on the subject (2 or 3) has said that the failure rate of the electronics is FAR higher (and more expensive to repair) than the old mechanical timers. Anytime you get electrical engineers involved to "fix" something that wasn't broken to begin with, you get what you get. Reckon how complex and expensive it is to diagnose an electronic oil level monitoring system vs a dipstick and tube?
What exactly is not "right" with the RAM system? From everything in this thread, it works exactly as designed.

And no words were put in your mouth. But what you have said isn't correct. So there's that.
 
I just did my second oil change. I did the first at around 800 miles and the second at just over 5000 miles. Added 7.5 quarts in and the oil level indicator now reads full.
 
I just did my second oil change. I did the first at around 800 miles and the second at just over 5000 miles. Added 7.5 quarts in and the oil level indicator now reads full.
Hi Foogie...I am preparing to do my first oil and filter change on my 2025 RAM 1500 with the 3.0 in line six standard output Hurricane engine. I was hoping there would be a video by now from a RAM 1500 Hurricane owner with details on how it was done and any tips or tricks to get it done successfully. It looks pretty straightforward and I have experience with DIY oil changes but was hoping there would be a video by now going through the steps with this new engine...did you run into any issues or obstacles doing you oil changes? Any tips or tricks you can share?
 
I'll be needing to change my oil shortly as well. Seems straight forward, but any tips or tricks would be nice. I'll try to do my own video and post it to help others out.
 

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