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Off Road / Heating oil in pickup

headhoncho

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OK - wanted to put this post out there just for real-world observations instead of someone reading something and then injecting their OPINIONS on what works and what doesn't. This is NOT to address the legality nor ethicality of using heating oil/Off road in a standard vehicle. It's not legal and you could be fined big time if found out.

That being said, other than the first tank used in the 1500 ecodiesel, all subsequent fills were with heating oil that was purchased when the price was at $1.59/gallon in 2020 (ridiculous how much diesel has risen since then!!). We have a huge tank and knowing that oil should not be cheaper than that in my lifetime persuaded me to fill that sucker up for my tractors as well as the new pickup. So now fast forward a couple of years and 82,000 miles on the 1500, I can give you a couple of observations.
Truck for the most part has been running great. I get awesome mileage - around 26-28mpg. Great power in towing 24' enclosed trailers (with a race car) and a 32' RV. I do get check engine lights from time to time regarding a clogged valve with the EGR but I'm told from the dealer (and also my friend) that that is very common since I do drive a lot locally and no easy way of keeping the RPM's at a certain level for soot to burn off.

Recently, I had to bring my truck into service for the recall flash (for the emissions - lol). So to prevent any potential issues, I had to drain my tank to get rid of any telltale signs of the red dye. It's a royal pain to drop the tank (especially when it's near full with a 33gal size) so I did the lazy thing and disconnected the hose from the fuel filter and had the truck pump the fuel into containers. Still a pain and took about 2 hours but I didn't have to risk spilling anything if removing the thank. So for those who wonder how powerful the dye is. I pumped the tank by turning the truck to the on position and letting the 15-20 second pump prime do its work. I should have recorded how many times I did it but it is probably somewhere near 120 times or so to empty the full tank. Once the pump stopped pushing fuel, there's probably another 1-2 gallons left in the tank. So if I put in clear diesel, it would be colored by the residual fuel. What I did was to put 1-2 gallons of clear diesel in at a time, get the pump to do it's job again, and to keep on doing this cycle - each time diluting the fuel lighter red until it comes out an acceptable color. Even after 5 dilutes, the red was very deep. I found out that it took me 7 additional cycles before the red was fully flushed out. That dye is powerful and difficult to completely get rid of unless you do a full flush like I did. See my photos on how the color became lighter and lighter.

So if you are going to cheat the system over the long run, it would make it more feasible to use the off road - especially if you prebought the fuel when it was dirt cheap. Probably not worth it if you don't do this much or don't have a LARGE tank (as in 5000 gal. for me - a hefty savings of over $20k). It is a royal pain in the neck to clear out the red each time you go in for service so that is a consideration. And of course, the ethical/legal reasons for doing so. There are a LOT of people willing to do EGR/DPF deletes and that has the same ethical/legal ramifications so this post is to educate a little more to those type of people. For me, having the emission controls MAY seam more environmentally cleaner but I think for the significant power and MPG loss makes you burn more fuel and it becomes a wash in the end - so I would consider that when my warranty runs out. As far as how the truck runs, I see absolutely zero difference between dyed and undyed fuels. Truck runs great and fuel mileage is great.
 

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djevox

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I’m interested in the longevity comparison to trucks with just usld. You planning on keeping it past 150k miles?
 

headhoncho

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I’m interested in the longevity comparison to trucks with just usld. You planning on keeping it past 150k miles?
At the current time, I think I will end up keeping it until it falls apart. 5 more years on the loan (as I remember) so at the rate I'm going, I should have 300k miles by the time I have it paid off!!

A side note, I do use Hot Shot Diesel treatment almost every time I fill up. Have no idea if this stuff really works or not but $1 per 1000 miles - not going to break the bank.
 

djevox

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At the current time, I think I will end up keeping it until it falls apart. 5 more years on the loan (as I remember) so at the rate I'm going, I should have 300k miles by the time I have it paid off!!

A side note, I do use Hot Shot Diesel treatment almost every time I fill up. Have no idea if this stuff really works or not but $1 per 1000 miles - not going to break the bank.
I use hot shots EDT also. I use 2oz at every fillup, use diesel extreme every 6k, and use FR3 in the oil. It might sound like I’m a fanboy of hotshots, but they are the best performing products readily available to me.

I’m always skeptical of products that claim to give any increases or reduce friction, so I’d like to give an example of how I figured out that a hot shot product worked great:

I use FR3 in all 3 of my vehicles. Can’t really tell a difference there. However, I have a 29 year old John Deere tractor with the original gas-powered and water-cooled Kawasaki engine. It always struggled to start and blew big puffs of blue smoke when hot starting. I put FR3 in with my oil change two days ago. The initial startup was the same labored process and the exhaust had a weird smell to it. After ~5mins of runtime, the smell went away. I ran it for ~30mins, shut it off, and restarted. Ususally, I have to run full choke and still get a giant puff of blue smoke (accumulated oil from blowby). I tried not setting choke and hit the key. It started right up. I tried it a bunch more that day and it starts like a new engine. I’m utterly amazed at this stuff- it acted like an engine restoration product.

It’s great that you’re keeping yours for a long time and I’m excited to see the updates. I’m on the fence about whether to keep mine or not over the long term. I have to make a decision within two years/100k so I can keep some residual value. If I do keep it, I estimate by the time I have this paid off I’ll have 200,000 miles on it (so, in 4.5 years). I don’t know if this VM motori engine will last, but I know that I’ll be changing the DPF by then. (Hope I’m wrong though)
 

Aseras

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A diesel engine can run on any combustible fuel. You could even tweak them to run on gasoline or propane with the appropriate changes to the fuel air mix and compression so they don't detonate prematurely. Bunch of guys at my old state job bought rapeseed oil( canola oil ) by the tanker. It was something absurd like 30 cents a gallon in bulk ( 25,000 gallons? ). They all ran their TDi's and 300d mercedes off it for years. One of the environmental lab guys started his own business collected used cooking oil and purifying it with methanol and removing the glycerin and using it for fuel. They used to have to pay to get it removed before 2001ish. He did it for free and eventually had to buy it from them as more people/companies also wanted it for the same purpose.

That said the biggest risk is to the emissions equipment and soot load and fuel dilution of the oil. If you don't care about those and change the oil regularly and keep the turbos and other stuff like the dpf cleaned out it's not an issue.

Also no shop is gonna give a crap about the dye. Our pump diesel for the state agency I worked for was almost always dyed red because it was untaxed within the state and was largely restricted to state vehicles only. No one ever said anything about it for the dozens of trucks that ran on it going in and out of the shop. especially after they laid off most of the mechanics and used local shops for servicing.
 

HST

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The only difference between the fuel is the dye. I wouldn't worry about any dealership checking
what fuel is in the tank , most probably don't know what off road fuel is .
 

Aseras

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If its actually heating oil it's not pump diesel or kerosene. It's usually a heavier more viscous blend and it also has a TON of sulfur.


It depends on the S# and the higher the number the cheaper it is.
 
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HST

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I am talking off road fuel that we use in heavy construction equipment .
 

Aseras

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Regular off road diesel is S15 now. I don't think you can get S500 or S5000 at all anymore unless you are marine( boating ).
 

headhoncho

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If its actually heating oil it's not pump diesel or kerosene. It's usually a heavier more viscous blend and it also has a TON of sulfur.


It depends on the S# and the higher the number the cheaper it is.

I spoke to our heating oil supplier (the owner) and he said that - at least for NY all #2 heating oil is ULSD that is dyed. No significant difference between that and the yellow diesel you get at the fuel pumps. Heating oil must be under 15ppm sulfur in order to be sold - that was the law many many years ago. I'm pretty good friends with him since we have lots in common and our wives do Zumba together.

BTW: I don't want to take any chances with dealer service and if they see or don't see dyed fuel. Diesel service is so damn expensive - The truck is under warranty and I don't want to give them any excuses to deny me service because of it.
 

HSKR R/T

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I spoke to our heating oil supplier (the owner) and he said that - at least for NY all #2 heating oil is ULSD that is dyed. No significant difference between that and the yellow diesel you get at the fuel pumps. Heating oil must be under 15ppm sulfur in order to be sold - that was the law many many years ago. I'm pretty good friends with him since we have lots in common and our wives do Zumba together.

BTW: I don't want to take any chances with dealer service and if they see or don't see dyed fuel. Diesel service is so damn expensive - The truck is under warranty and I don't want to give them any excuses to deny me service because of it.
For the most part, the only people who will even dip a tank to check for illegal diesel fuel is DOT or State Troopers.
 

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