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Need help with choices

MaxiSteel

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I am currently running a motofab 2.5” level on a bighorn w/o ORP. I want to move into the 3-4” range and upgrade my shocks at the lease for better ride quality. I’ve read multiple ideas such as the 5100s combo with ORP Springs, a combo of the RL 3.5” with 5100s, a combo of the 2” Mopar with orp springs, etc... I’m tossed since I’ve read posts that say these work, they don’t work, the RL sucks, the RL is great, the height with the springs stacks and you get 3-3.5” out of the 5100s and orp springs. I guess I’m just looking for concrete numbers of actual gained lift running these combos.
If there are other combos or full lifts that I did not mention and you all know of let me know, I’m just looking for some solid info on these setups
Thanks for the help
 

DirtNazzty

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I am currently running a motofab 2.5” level on a bighorn w/o ORP. I want to move into the 3-4” range and upgrade my shocks at the lease for better ride quality. I’ve read multiple ideas such as the 5100s combo with ORP Springs, a combo of the RL 3.5” with 5100s, a combo of the 2” Mopar with orp springs, etc... I’m tossed since I’ve read posts that say these work, they don’t work, the RL sucks, the RL is great, the height with the springs stacks and you get 3-3.5” out of the 5100s and orp springs. I guess I’m just looking for concrete numbers of actual gained lift running these combos.
If there are other combos or full lifts that I did not mention and you all know of let me know, I’m just looking for some solid info on these setups
Thanks for the help
Dude... You're way over thinking it.. Sell the level and buy a 4" BDS lift! You will be perfectly happy with the ride and without piecing a bunch of random components together

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MaxiSteel

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Dude... You're way over thinking it.. Sell the level and buy a 4" BDS lift! You will be perfectly happy with the ride and without piecing a bunch of random components together

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
I did look into the bds and I would love to do that, only thing stopping me is the price point. I’m sure the system is worth it and if the other “combo” builds get near that price point I will just end up pulling the trigger on the bds. Army pay and moving off post recently is keeping me on a budget, only reason I’m looking for maybe a little cheaper route at the moment:(
 

ScottChurch

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To add another option to the list I would look at the following thread:

I have some decent information in my “build” that documents everything I used. I gained 3.5” in the front and 2” in the back. I personally went this route to have a 3.5” lift without having to use the preload spacer in the other 3.5” lifts.
 

DirtNazzty

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I did look into the bds and I would love to do that, only thing stopping me is the price point. I’m sure the system is worth it and if the other “combo” builds get near that price point I will just end up pulling the trigger on the bds. Army pay and moving off post recently is keeping me on a budget, only reason I’m looking for maybe a little cheaper route at the moment:(
I hear ya man! BDS makes great quality kits and does cost a little more than others but I'd pay the extra $700 or so for BDS over the rough country kit! I had a 6" rough country kit on my 2013 Laramie for the 6 years I owned the truck, and I absolutely loved the look and stance of the truck (got compliments almost every day) The lift never gave me any problems, but what I hated about rough country was how rusty all the components got after about a year and a half! You couldn't even see the rough County on the shocks anymore because they were so rusted out so the entire kit was ugly as hell on my nice sharp looking pickup ... Anlther option too would be, I believe Zone offers a 4" kit for our trucks as well and is cheaper than the BDS... And it's the same company! Zone is BDS's "cheaper" line

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MaxiSteel

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To add another option to the list I would look at the following thread:

I have some decent information in my “build” that documents everything I used. I gained 3.5” in the front and 2” in the back. I personally went this route to have a 3.5” lift without having to use the preload spacer in the other 3.5” lifts.
Yeah I just checked out your build thread, very unique. I could leave the motofab level I have in and just drop in the ORP springs. My truck stock had a 2 5/8" rake so the motofab 2.5" took me right to about 1/8-1/4" rake which is good for me. I would run ORP springs in the rear as well since it would give me 1" (hopefully) on the back to level with the front springs. If I could do that and drop some upgraded struts in the front and shocks in the rear I would do that since I already have the motofab level.
I would've already bought the 5100/5160 set but I don't know if I can run the front past setting 5 with the ORP springs on as well. I read in threads already that guys with rebels and with ORP can't use the 2.75" setting on the struts, they can only go to the 2" setting max. Do you have any idea if a non-ORP truck running ORP springs can set on the tallest strut height? I would assume they can't since the ORP just gets its' 1" addition from the springs and I would be slapping those on my truck as well.
 

MaxiSteel

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I hear ya man! BDS makes great quality kits and does cost a little more than others but I'd pay the extra $700 or so for BDS over the rough country kit! I had a 6" rough country kit on my 2013 Laramie for the 6 years I owned the truck, and I absolutely loved the look and stance of the truck (got compliments almost every day) The lift never gave me any problems, but what I hated about rough country was how rusty all the components got after about a year and a half! You couldn't even see the rough County on the shocks anymore because they were so rusted out so the entire kit was ugly as hell on my nice sharp looking pickup ... Anlther option too would be, I believe Zone offers a 4" kit for our trucks as well and is cheaper than the BDS... And it's the same company! Zone is BDS's "cheaper" line

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Yeah BDS stuff is nice. I wish there was more aftermarket for these trucks, they never get the love that Ford and Chevy do. And FCA has to make Rams all complicated. The 2009 I had was much easier to deal with:ROFLMAO:
 

MaxiSteel

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To add another option to the list I would look at the following thread:

I have some decent information in my “build” that documents everything I used. I gained 3.5” in the front and 2” in the back. I personally went this route to have a 3.5” lift without having to use the preload spacer in the other 3.5” lifts.
And this one will be a newb question as the last truck I built was with my dad so I didn't do most of the research. When the shocks for the rear are talking about what lift size they are for I'm assuming they mean how much the rear is lifted and the front doesn't matter. Please correct me if I am wrong
 

ScottChurch

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Yeah I just checked out your build thread, very unique. I could leave the motofab level I have in and just drop in the ORP springs. My truck stock had a 2 5/8" rake so the motofab 2.5" took me right to about 1/8-1/4" rake which is good for me. I would run ORP springs in the rear as well since it would give me 1" (hopefully) on the back to level with the front springs. If I could do that and drop some upgraded struts in the front and shocks in the rear I would do that since I already have the motofab level.
I would've already bought the 5100/5160 set but I don't know if I can run the front past setting 5 with the ORP springs on as well. I read in threads already that guys with rebels and with ORP can't use the 2.75" setting on the struts, they can only go to the 2" setting max. Do you have any idea if a non-ORP truck running ORP springs can set on the tallest strut height? I would assume they can't since the ORP just gets its' 1" addition from the springs and I would be slapping those on my truck as well.
I personally wouldn’t run the 5100s with the ORP springs any higher than what bilstein recommends, no matter if the truck was a stock ORP truck or not. You have to remember that the higher the spring perch the more stress that you are putting the spring under and in turn the worse the ride will be. If you really want an upgraded strut in the front then you could run the 5100s at the stock perch height, then put in an ORP spring and keep your leveling kit in. I’m not sure how much the 5100s would benefit you in this scenario but it is an option.
 

ScottChurch

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And this one will be a newb question as the last truck I built was with my dad so I didn't do most of the research. When the shocks for the rear are talking about what lift size they are for I'm assuming they mean how much the rear is lifted and the front doesn't matter. Please correct me if I am wrong
Correct, the rear shock lift height that you see listed is in correlation with the amount the rear is lifted. It’s to make sure that you aren’t overextending or bottoming out the shock during normal suspension travel.
 

MaxiSteel

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I personally wouldn’t run the 5100s with the ORP springs any higher than what bilstein recommends, no matter if the truck was a stock ORP truck or not. You have to remember that the higher the spring perch the more stress that you are putting the spring under and in turn the worse the ride will be. If you really want an upgraded strut in the front then you could run the 5100s at the stock perch height, then put in an ORP spring and keep your leveling kit in. I’m not sure how much the 5100s would benefit you in this scenario but it is an option.
So I could, in theory, run a top spacer over the 5100? Say I run my 2.5" motofab top spacer on a 5100 set at 3 or 4? I know I would need to replace UCAs at that point but if I do that then it could be a possibility correct?
 

ScottChurch

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So I could, in theory, run a top spacer over the 5100? Say I run my 2.5" motofab top spacer on a 5100 set at 3 or 4? I know I would need to replace UCAs at that point but if I do that then it could be a possibility correct?
It sounds like any of the lift options your are considering will need UCAs. I would run new UCAs on anything more than a 2.5” lift. You would probably be safe to run the 5100s at the third clip and keep your 2.5” leveling kit. That would put you right at 3.4” of lift over stock. I would not run the ORP springs in addition to this setup though; that would put you over 4” of lift and you need to run a drop bracket at that point.
 

MaxiSteel

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It sounds like any of the lift options your are considering will need UCAs. I would run new UCAs on anything more than a 2.5” lift. You would probably be safe to run the 5100s at the third clip and keep your 2.5” leveling kit. That would put you right at 3.4” of lift over stock. I would not run the ORP springs in addition to this setup though; that would put you over 4” of lift and you need to run a drop bracket at that point.
Yeah I already have the mopar UCAs ready to order. And I wouldn't run the ORP springs in the front with the 5100 and top spacer. I would run them in the back with the 5160s I just ordered though. Would rather gain an inch in the rear from a heavier duty spring than a 1" coil spacer. That is my plan: 5100s up front with the Motofab spacer and mopar UCAs and then 5160s in the rear with the ORP springs.
 

ScottChurch

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Yeah I already have the mopar UCAs ready to order. And I wouldn't run the ORP springs in the front with the 5100 and top spacer. I would run them in the back with the 5160s I just ordered though. Would rather gain an inch in the rear from a heavier duty spring than a 1" coil spacer. That is my plan: 5100s up front with the Motofab spacer and mopar UCAs and then 5160s in the rear with the ORP springs.
I think you have a good plan now. The only thing that I would point out is that a lot of people leave a little bit of rake in the back so that the truck looks level. Mine sits one inch higher in the back than the front and everyone I have asked thinks it looks dead level. This also helps for when I tow and make my regular Home Depot trips so that the truck isn’t squatting.
 

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