My Truck Just Stopped!!!

[Cmn987]

I have a 2019 Dodge Ram 1500 bighorn 4x4 with about 40k miles. As I was getting on the highway coming up to speed, around 65mph, my vehicle just jerked me, then a message on cluster said service start/stop , start/stop unavailable. No CEL came on but the vehicle just decreased in speed and stopped. Tried jumping it three separate times with three separate vehicle and not. The vehicle would not turn over just keep clicking. My battery was fine as the jump box tested it 12 volts. Got it to the dealership and they say it just a weak battery and started right up when they jumped it. That doesn’t make any sense and now the suggest a new battery. Anyone else experience this ?

 

[MayhemMOORE]

I've had my 21 Laramie shut off 3 times on me now, all at speeds under 20 MPH, however I got no warning lights and no codes came up when I connected to it before or after cycling the ignition. Check under the dash on the driver's side. Just above where your left foot would be there is a heavy gauge wire/plug. I found this had come unplugged on mine and it cause the truck to be totally dead. Other member's had similar issues as well. There are also issues with some of the grounds not being good enough, especially on the etorque trucks.

 

[TVANVA]

I wouldn't say the dealership is necessarily wrong.

Battery chemistry and physics aren't simple. If a voltmeter shows 12V for a 12V battery, that is not an ideal indication of a good battery. Holding that voltage under a decent load over a long time period is a much better test.

Sorry my example is not from a RAM 1500, but we had a Caravan on which all the instrument panel gauges and overhead console would all go dead just driving down the interstate. It would occasionally refuse to start as well, but then seem to work fine for months. My local dealership kept it for several weeks and could find no cause. We gave up on the dealership and took it to a local garage, who told us it was a weak battery. We were skeptical, but replaced the battery. Never had a single problem after that. Yes, this could be caused by a poor ground, but I find this garage to be very trustworthy, so I'm confident that the battery was all they worked on.

Given the ton of electronics/computers in our RAMs, they can be sensitive to minimal voltages, so a weak battery that isn't taking/holding a charge is possible, although the good ideas mentioned above are certainly possibilities too.

I hope you get it fixed to your satisfaction.

 

[ramButz]

I wouldn't say the dealership is necessarily wrong.

Battery chemistry and physics aren't simple. If a voltmeter shows 12V for a 12V battery, that is not an ideal indication of a good battery. Holding that voltage under a decent load over a long time period is a much better test.

Sorry my example is not from a RAM 1500, but we had a Caravan on which all the instrument panel gauges and overhead console would all go dead just driving down the interstate. It would occasionally refuse to start as well, but then seem to work fine for months. My local dealership kept it for several weeks and could find no cause. We gave up on the dealership and took it to a local garage, who told us it was a weak battery. We were skeptical, but replaced the battery. Never had a single problem after that. Yes, this could be caused by a poor ground, but I find this garage to be very trustworthy, so I'm confident that the battery was all they worked on.

Given the ton of electronics/computers in our RAMs, they can be sensitive to minimal voltages, so a weak battery that isn't taking/holding a charge is possible, although the good ideas mentioned above are certainly possibilities too.

I hope you get it fixed to your satisfaction.

hey you are so right.these rams are so finicky and sensitive to any other type of draw.even as something as simple as and upgrade LED bulb 12 volt is ok if its just sitting but even that really is to low.it should read like 12.5 or up to 13. then underload should read 14.87 to 15.03...But good luck trying to get that with these batteries that ram is using.

 

[Bluesurf]

Last year after similar issues I tossed the lousy factory battery and installed the H8 AGM much more power for a truck. FCA stuck battery's that belong in sedans not Ram Trucks. The H8's fit in like a glove. FCA put a little plastic wedge to accommodate the smaller H7. Snap out the wedge and place in the bigger H8.

 

[ramButz]

Last year after similar issues I tossed the lousy factory battery and installed the H8 AGM much more power for a truck. FCA stuck battery's that belong in sedans not Ram Trucks. The H8's fit in like a glove. FCA put a little plastic wedge to accommodate the smaller H7. Snap out the wedge and place in the bigger H8.

hey guy thanks for the tip.i just had my battery replaced under warrenty2 weeks ago .but with the info you just gave i may do the same
for any members here who cares.check out these test...

 

[BowDown]

I wouldn't say the dealership is necessarily wrong.

Battery chemistry and physics aren't simple. If a voltmeter shows 12V for a 12V battery, that is not an ideal indication of a good battery. Holding that voltage under a decent load over a long time period is a much better test.

Sorry my example is not from a RAM 1500, but we had a Caravan on which all the instrument panel gauges and overhead console would all go dead just driving down the interstate. It would occasionally refuse to start as well, but then seem to work fine for months. My local dealership kept it for several weeks and could find no cause. We gave up on the dealership and took it to a local garage, who told us it was a weak battery. We were skeptical, but replaced the battery. Never had a single problem after that. Yes, this could be caused by a poor ground, but I find this garage to be very trustworthy, so I'm confident that the battery was all they worked on.

Given the ton of electronics/computers in our RAMs, they can be sensitive to minimal voltages, so a weak battery that isn't taking/holding a charge is possible, although the good ideas mentioned above are certainly possibilities too.

I hope you get it fixed to your satisfaction.

Lots of people don't get this and post similar comments here about battery testing good. These simple tests don't check for dead cells like a load test will as Tvanva said

 

[RossoWheelson]

These days, about half the new batteries fail in the first 2-3 years. They are asked to do so much these days with the various bells and whistles nickel and diming the battery when the truck is not running.

 

[Andymax]

Lots of people don't get this and post similar comments here about battery testing good. These simple tests don't check for dead cells like a load test will as Tvanva said

A true "dead cell" will put out zero volts as it is likely shorted internally, so a simple voltage test will show the voltage loss. A very weak cell will show itself under a load, dropping voltage rapidly.

These days, about half the new batteries fail in the first 2-3 years. They are asked to do so much these days with the various bells and whistles nickel and diming the battery when the truck is not running.

I agree. 20+ years ago FLA batteries were not used for much beyond starting the vehicle. Nowadays, there are so many circuits that, while maybe in "sleep mode" are still drawing current. Cheap FLA batteries are not meant for cyclical duty but that's what they're doing. An option is Lithium Ion or LiFePO-4 but those are upwards of $500+ each, so most people, and certainly the OEMs, will never use them for vast majority of passenger vehicles.

 

[ramButz]

Last year after similar issues I tossed the lousy factory battery and installed the H8 AGM much more power for a truck. FCA stuck battery's that belong in sedans not Ram Trucks. The H8's fit in like a glove. FCA put a little plastic wedge to accommodate the smaller H7. Snap out the wedge and place in the bigger H8.

hey guys "RamNation".today i went shopping for a better battery.i took the advice of "BlueSurf"and got a "H8".first i did try "WalMart"but all there stores were all out .so i read that "Costco"has some,so i had to go out there anyway..so i gave them a try.they had lots of them there.lucky me.anyway i was curious on the size difference."BlueSurf"is right its bigger.in case some of you have never seen one or the size difference i took a snap shot so some can see the size comparison

 

[Kaderast]

Oddly, a 12V battery is considered somewhere in the ballpark of 90% discharged at a reading of 12V. A fully charged battery should test in the 12.8 - 13.2 range, give or take.

 

[ramButz]

Oddly, a 12V battery is considered somewhere in the ballpark of 90% discharged at a reading of 12V. A fully charged battery should test in the 12.8 - 13.2 range, give or take.

YEA!!! now he's know what he's talking about if your truck is just sitting.not on,it should read at 12.8 to 13.when you fire it over(on load)it is to read 14.8 up to 15.03.if its sitting and you use your volt meter and it reads 12.11 or 11.93(some where between that area) its to low.not able to hold a charge up to pare