Light bar installation questions.....

[Michael_D]

I'm hopeful that someone, or maybe several on this site may have the answers to a couple of questions I have.

I've been searching this site to get some info on light bar installs and how to configure the switching functions. There does not seem to be a good DIY guide to be found. I am particularly interested in how to use the high beams as a trigger, options for mounting a bar in the bumper, options for mounting one behind the grill, switch options for the dash that look OEM, and the brand of light to purchase.

This thread in the "interior" board is about the only one that speaks to using the high beams as a trigger. (Switch install on dash for light bar)

H

Post in thread 'Switch install on dash for light bar'

Feb 27, 2024

How did you wire into your high beams?

I've got trigger4 system and I hate the switching. Would rather wire my light bar to the high beams and be done.

Used a regular light bar wiring harness with a relay and wired direct to the battery. I dont like having to find a small switch to turn the bar on/off so I want it to my high beams.
I cut the wire that leads into the relay as the trigger, and hook that up to my trigger source. On my old truck that was using a add-a-fuse to the high beam circuit in the fuse box, on this truck that was tapping into the wiring for the driver side high...

• Hawkshot99

I have a 2022 limited. A moment of stupidity necessitated a need for a new front bumper. I bought a new bumper, painted it, and now plan to get some PPF and install that after the new paint has a couple weeks to cure. I figured this is the optimal time to install a light bar, assuming I install it in the bumper. I thought the RC bar would be a slam dunk, but it comes with a standard wiring harness that uses a toggle to turn it on/off. I'm also a bit concerned it may not have enough light output.

I believe these newer trucks power and switch lights through the BCM, and if the computer senses too high of a current draw, it opens the circuit. I have been advised that simply cutting into the high beam wiring to trigger a relay, may result in faults. Is this a valid concern?

I understand that there is a preference for the offroaders to install an external switching panel, like the Auxbeam BA80 Switch Panel Kit, or they more expensive Switch-Pros 9100. I have no desire to run additional lights or accessories, just one light.

As mentioned earlier, I am unsure if the 20" RC light will have the reach I am looking for. I am hoping to improve long-range lighting to see large critters (moose) before they jump onto the road. I think I can fit a 32" bar in the bumper, but am unsure if a larger light, placed behind the bumper insert, would work well enough? I'm also not real clear on bracket options for mounting one. Are there brackets for this type of installation readily available?

With all the hardware and louvers behind the grill on these trucks, can a light bar be mounted behind the grill, and also mounted in a way that actually looks good?

 

[Sascwatch]

I am running a 20” light bar (122313) aswell as ditch lights (862213) made by Rigid Industries. I chose to wire them both to a separate switch so that my high beams are still usable when I am on the busier highways. I try to avoid using the light bars on roads I may encounter traffic.

You could easily wire the relay for the light bar to your high beams by simply running the trigger wire for the light bar relay to your high beam wiring. You might be able to use a fuse tap and run it from the fuse box, I am not 100% certain it can be done this way tho.

There are a few companies making light bar brackets that install behind the lower grill (not compatible with the ecodiesel trucks) I chose to mount mine directly to the front bumper on my rebel as it is steel and provides a solid mount even on rough roads.

Honestly the ditch lights made a much more noticeable difference than the light bar itself as they illuminate off to the sides so well. With both I confidently run 60+ mph on the logging roads with plenty of visibility.

 

[Michael_D]

I am running a 20” light bar (122313) aswell as ditch lights (862213) made by Rigid Industries. I chose to wire them both to a separate switch so that my high beams are still usable when I am on the busier highways. I try to avoid using the light bars on roads I may encounter traffic.

You could easily wire the relay for the light bar to your high beams by simply running the trigger wire for the light bar relay to your high beam wiring. You might be able to use a fuse tap and run it from the fuse box, I am not 100% certain it can be done this way tho.

There are a few companies making light bar brackets that install behind the lower grill (not compatible with the ecodiesel trucks) I chose to mount mine directly to the front bumper on my rebel as it is steel and provides a solid mount even on rough roads.

Honestly the ditch lights made a much more noticeable difference than the light bar itself as they illuminate off to the sides so well. With both I confidently run 60+ mph on the logging roads with plenty of visibility.

Thanks for the response. I am curious to know if your truck has the factory LED headlamps. To my understanding, LED lights do not use a fused circuit, and are powered directly from the BCM.

We have a chronic "light bar theft" problem where I live. If you mount anything to the bumper, or in any way that a crafty thief with a battery-powered sawzall can remove it, they will.....

 

[Michael_D]

This site has a UK manufactured CAN interface wiring harness. I just stumbled onto it, and have no idea if it is compatible with these trucks. More research needed.... CAN Interface (Dual-Output)

 

[Sascwatch]

Thanks for the response. I am curious to know if your truck has the factory LED headlamps. To my understanding, LED lights do not use a fused circuit, and are powered directly from the BCM.

We have a chronic "light bar theft" problem where I live. If you mount anything to the bumper, or in any way that a crafty thief with a battery-powered sawzall can remove it, they will.....

I do have the factory led headlights, but I have not tapped into any factory wiring for the light bar. They are direct to the battery via a relay.

Wiring the trigger wire to your high beams wouldn’t cause any significant draw as it only needs to power the relay itself and the light bar will get its power from the battery through the relay.