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Hemi eTorque - Dead as a doornail (Battery under warranty?)

Sspearsau

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Hey guys,

I came home from a two night trip to a dead truck at the airport. Not fun after a four hour flight delay.

Anyway, I was always under the impression that if the 12v battery under the hood died, the 48v battery from the eTorque system would kick in and allow the car to start. That was clearly not the case for me. I couldn’t even unlock my car with the remote. Had to use the physical key.

My truck is 2.5 years old. 13,000 miles on it. Wondering if this indicates there could be an issue with one, or both batteries, as well as if anyone knows what the warranty is on the factory 12v?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

Jako

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Battery died at 2 years, fairly common, was covered under warranty.
There is a thread about batteries on the 5th Gen forum for more info.
My truck would not come out of first gear with the weak battery.
 

vincentw56

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Hey guys,

I came home from a two night trip to a dead truck at the airport. Not fun after a four hour flight delay.

Anyway, I was always under the impression that if the 12v battery under the hood died, the 48v battery from the eTorque system would kick in and allow the car to start. That was clearly not the case for me. I couldn’t even unlock my car with the remote. Had to use the physical key.

My truck is 2.5 years old. 13,000 miles on it. Wondering if this indicates there could be an issue with one, or both batteries, as well as if anyone knows what the warranty is on the factory 12v?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
That is definitely not how the 48v battery and eTorque system work.
 

Slutzk

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I was always under the impression that if the 12v battery under the hood died, the 48v battery from the eTorque system would kick in and allow the car to start.
100% false. Not sure where you heard that, but thats not even almost how that works.
 

Slutzk

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Hey guys,

I came home from a two night trip to a dead truck at the airport. Not fun after a four hour flight delay.

Anyway, I was always under the impression that if the 12v battery under the hood died, the 48v battery from the eTorque system would kick in and allow the car to start. That was clearly not the case for me. I couldn’t even unlock my car with the remote. Had to use the physical key.

My truck is 2.5 years old. 13,000 miles on it. Wondering if this indicates there could be an issue with one, or both batteries, as well as if anyone knows what the warranty is on the factory 12v?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Batteries on these 5thgens seem to have a life span of about 2 years out the factory, pretty common. Ether get a new one from warranty and or gona have to go grab another yourself.
 

Richard320

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The 48V system does charge the 12V system, but the 12V system is what controls it. So if the 12V battery is dead, so are all the various computers - engine, transmission, AC, eTorque, door locks, everything. 2½ years is a little premature for the battery to die, but not unheard of nor especially worrying by itself. If a replacement goes dead, then you have something to worry about.

As an aside, should you change the battery yourself, expect to have lost a bunch of radio stations and such, and have a bunch of warning lights on. They'll clear themselves up in under twenty four hours. Don't panic.
 

dajogejr

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As others have said.. see if the warranty will cover it.
As far as the other..
The 12V battery starts the vehicle when it’s cold, or first startup.
The only time the 48V battery starts the truck is once it’s met all parameters for stop start (engine temp, cabin temp, etc.) then the 48v battery springs the EGU to start the truck.

I keep a Noco jump pack in my Ram box just incase…
 

Jako

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I'm on my original battery, 100,000 kms and 5 years to date.
I'm 2 in 4 years and the Ram is the only vehicle that I carry a jump pack in my 50+ years of driving. The only vehicle that needs a motor at 40011 miles and will be 2 to 3 months to get it back.
 

silver billet

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I'm 2 in 4 years and the Ram is the only vehicle that I carry a jump pack in my 50+ years of driving. The only vehicle that needs a motor at 40011 miles and will be 2 to 3 months to get it back.

Look at the bright side. At least you're not driving a Tundra with the bearing delete option installed.
 

Willwork4truck

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100% false. Not sure where you heard that, but thats not even almost how that works.
Agree but would be nice if they had engineered that. I have the voltmeter on my display and always see a 12.2 or 12.3 volt reading at first start…
 

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