Garage door opener to control aux lights

[Kevvy23]

Hi there, apologies for the thread - keep seeing things mentioned in light bar posts about a few people using RF switches to control LED light bars via the garage door opener buttons, but struggling to find a thread on it/any instructions.
I see some people have used a cheaper switch to control the relay, but have found some switches online rated to 40amps, any reason why I couldn't wire the light bar directly into the switch ?(with an inline fuse supplying the switch) - load is likely going to be circa 15 amps. Saves buying an additional relay/wiring kit and makes for less wiring under the hood.

Was looking at something like this: 12v 40a switch

Anyone see any issues/problems with this, if I decide to go forward with it, will take some photos and try to document it as much as possible.

 

[Belvedere]

Just buy the Blazer controller. They make a 4 channel and an 8. I have the 4. Hooking up rock lights right now. Front light bar later. Those two use my spare Homelink buttons. Will just use the remote for others.

 

[John Jensen]

I don't see any problems or issues. My only concern is your vehicle's electrical system is not protected. Suppose the fushionsea switch hiccupped and somehow caused a problem. The relay would have saved the vehicle's delicate electrical system. That's the main reason I used a relay to ignite the light bar.

 

[Kevvy23]

Just buy the Blazer controller. They make a 4 channel and an 8. I have the 4. Hooking up rock lights right now. Front light bar later. Those two use my spare Homelink buttons. Will just use the remote for others.

Thanks, hadn't heard of the blazer till now, just looking at it - looks a much better bit of kit than the cheap units on amazon, only concern I have is the fact its only 18a rating, not sure if that's enough wiggle room for the current draw. Might just wait till I've got the funds and buy the blazer, use one of the 2a switches to switch a relay for the lightbar and then have 2 18a switches left for any rock lights or the like I want to add.

 

[Richard320]

Looking to add AUX switches? Using the homelink buttons to control Lightbars DIY HOW TO for under $20.

So I just added MicTuning C2 rocklights under my truck and I didn't want to drill a hole on a panel in the interior of the truck. So I purchased a eMylo DC 12V 1 Channel 433Mhz RF Wireless Relay Remote Control Momentary Light Switch Self-lock Transmitter with Receiver for Home Use Learn more...

5thgenrams.com

 

[Richard320]

Also this one I did myself. I still haven;t gotten around to actually doing it, but I can assure you the relay works just fine with the homelink button. Added some reverse lights today

 

[Belvedere]

Thanks, hadn't heard of the blazer till now, just looking at it - looks a much better bit of kit than the cheap units on amazon, only concern I have is the fact its only 18a rating, not sure if that's enough wiggle room for the current draw. Might just wait till I've got the funds and buy the blazer, use one of the 2a switches to switch a relay for the lightbar and then have 2 18a switches left for any rock lights or the like I want to add.

Yep, you can use it to control a relay or the light itself. Plus, I can keep the remote with me while camping.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I don't see any problems or issues. My only concern is your vehicle's electrical system is not protected. Suppose the fushionsea switch hiccupped and somehow caused a problem. The relay would have saved the vehicle's delicate electrical system. That's the main reason I used a relay to ignite the light bar.

That's what the fuse is for. You wound use a relay so you don't have to have a high amp source for trigger, not for "protection". And power for lights using one of these, should be coming right off battery.

 

[John Jensen]

That's what the fuse is for. You wound use a relay so you don't have to have a high amp source for trigger, not for "protection". And power for lights using one of these, should be coming right off battery.

The OP was asking about Fushionsea remote, I didn't see a fuse on that unit. The Blazer has a fuse so a relay is not required. I would still use a relay because the Blazer fuse is 40amp, it takes a lot to blow it. By the way, the Fushionsea is waterproof, but the Blazer is not, a big negative IMO.

 

[HSKR R/T]

The OP was asking about Fushionsea remote, I didn't see a fuse on that unit. The Blazer has a fuse so a relay is not required. I would still use a relay because the Blazer fuse is 40amp, it takes a lot to blow it. By the way, the Fushionsea is waterproof, but the Blazer is not, a big negative IMO.

You do realize you can add in your own fusez and if you don't put a fuse in any add in circuit you are an idiot

 

[John Jensen]

You do realize you can add in your own fusez and if you don't put a fuse in any add in circuit you are an idiot

Yep, I add a fuse as well. I never wire a circuit without a fuse. Don't think I'm an idiot, not yet.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Yep, I add a fuse as well. I never wire a circuit without a fuse. Don't think I'm an idiot, not yet.

And the fuse is what protects your 12v system, not a relay

 

[HSKR R/T]

So I bought this one

WOODGUILIN Wireless Relay Switch 12V,DC12V/24V/48V/72V 30A Relay,Waterproof Remote Control Switch with 328FT Long Range for Anti-Theft Alarms,Roller Lind Door,Ceiling Lights,Gate Barriers.(12V 100M) https://a.co/d/fBAom1S

Figured at 30amp rating I didn't need a separate relay. Finally got it wired up for my light bar on bumper tonight. Works great with the remote. I was able to program the "on" button to my homelink butting that wasn't being used. Unfortunately, this one the off is a separate frequency, so still need to remote to turn off. If I had to do it again, I'd buy one that only has one button. Was hoping this one would just work by hitting "on" again to turn it back off, and they just had two buttons on remote to so people wouldn't get confused.

 

[BackCountryinNJ]

So I bought this one

WOODGUILIN Wireless Relay Switch 12V,DC12V/24V/48V/72V 30A Relay,Waterproof Remote Control Switch with 328FT Long Range for Anti-Theft Alarms,Roller Lind Door,Ceiling Lights,Gate Barriers.(12V 100M) https://a.co/d/fBAom1S

Figured at 30amp rating I didn't need a separate relay. Finally got it wired up for my light bar on bumper tonight. Works great with the remote. I was able to program the "on" button to my homelink butting that wasn't being used. Unfortunately, this one the off is a separate frequency, so still need to remote to turn off. If I had to do it again, I'd buy one that only has one button. Was hoping this one would just work by hitting "on" again to turn it back off, and they just had two buttons on remote to so people wouldn't get confused.

I recently bought this one from Amazon and was able to program it to be a momentary switch and control my train horns. It easily paired with my homelink.....and so far, happy with it.

Amazon.com

 

[HSKR R/T]

I recently bought this one from Amazon and was able to program it to be a momentary switch and control my train horns. It easily paired with my homelink.....and so far, happy with it.

Amazon.com

View attachment 151884

Yeah, but it's not water resistant. The one I got was IPV6 rated so didn't have to worry about protecting it from rain/snow/car washes

 

[BackCountryinNJ]

Yeah, but it's not water resistant. The one I got was IPV6 rated so didn't have to worry about protecting it from rain/snow/car washes

Nope....not water resistant rated. I mounted it tight next to my battery though. Doubt it will ever see a drop of water unless I drive through a major flood.

 

[66Fuelie]

I use Trigger One relays (30 amp) and control with my phone for my heated wiper blades. 2 cold winters and no problems at all.
Tom