Alter Ego Trip
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- Joined
- Aug 23, 2020
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This is my 7th Ram after a small hiatus to an SRT Jeep. Currently sitting on about 300 miles on the odo when I rolled her into the garage and started the tear down. I have a pretty busy schedule so this will be a couple week project, but I'll try and document what I can along the way for anyone else who wants to go down the rabbit hole.
Treatment:
1 layer of Second Skin Damplifier Pro on floor and back wall, stuffing all open orifices with insulation (pillars holding seat belts), 1 layer of SS mass loaded vinyl (trying for as close to 100% coverage as possible or else it defeats the purpose) on floor and back wall. SS sludge on fender wells and MLV adhered to fender liners, 1 layer of Resonix CLD on outer/inner door skin with CCF on inner door panel and black hole tiles in door
Audio:
Speakers:
SI TM8's in doors, Gladen PP80 in OEM dash location, Gladen PP28 glassed into sails, AF GB12 for sub underseat (I will be building a 1.5net ported enclosure tuned to 32hz for under seat).
Amps:
Audison 5.1k for tweeter/midrange/sub, Audison Due for midbass
Processor:
Helix DSP3
Source:
12" and Topping D10s
OK, here we go.
That was a lot more work than I remember in the past lol. Each new iteration creates more headaches due to more wiring, and odd mounting implementations.
There are some small areas where the factory tossed some dampening tiles, but they do almost nothing. Rapping on the floor creates an audible ringing. The front seat risers are going to get filled with closed cell foam. That is a large cavity that can resonate pretty easily.
I absolutely despise the Torque system. I wish they hadn't forced everyone's hand with that. Rats nest of wiring and extra crap that do literally nothing. I'm going to try and pull the batteries away from the wall enough to get some CLD and MLV behind it. If the MLV isn't solid, it is a complete waste of time and money.
Trying to stuff some extra wires through for the midbass is going to be challenging. I'd prefer not to run the 18 gauge OEM wires for a couple reasons, but we'll see how that works. I have 200' of OFC 16 gauge I would like to use to wire the entire system. I prefer to separate everything from the OEM wiring whenever possible. Easier to troubleshoot issues that may arise (ground hum, etc.).
Fitting an 8" midbass will also present some interesting challenges. The tolerances come down to mm's. The speaker mount will have to be cut up a bit with the baffle placed perfectly to keep the door panel from hitting the driver or baffle. I'll probably end up removing the speaker grille to ensure I have it aligned perfectly before finalizing.
This modular carrier assembly is also a major PITA. What a crappy design. I love having to disassemble everything down to even the door handle, to remove the assembly for access to the outer skin.
Treatment:
1 layer of Second Skin Damplifier Pro on floor and back wall, stuffing all open orifices with insulation (pillars holding seat belts), 1 layer of SS mass loaded vinyl (trying for as close to 100% coverage as possible or else it defeats the purpose) on floor and back wall. SS sludge on fender wells and MLV adhered to fender liners, 1 layer of Resonix CLD on outer/inner door skin with CCF on inner door panel and black hole tiles in door
Audio:
Speakers:
SI TM8's in doors, Gladen PP80 in OEM dash location, Gladen PP28 glassed into sails, AF GB12 for sub underseat (I will be building a 1.5net ported enclosure tuned to 32hz for under seat).
Amps:
Audison 5.1k for tweeter/midrange/sub, Audison Due for midbass
Processor:
Helix DSP3
Source:
12" and Topping D10s
OK, here we go.
That was a lot more work than I remember in the past lol. Each new iteration creates more headaches due to more wiring, and odd mounting implementations.
There are some small areas where the factory tossed some dampening tiles, but they do almost nothing. Rapping on the floor creates an audible ringing. The front seat risers are going to get filled with closed cell foam. That is a large cavity that can resonate pretty easily.
I absolutely despise the Torque system. I wish they hadn't forced everyone's hand with that. Rats nest of wiring and extra crap that do literally nothing. I'm going to try and pull the batteries away from the wall enough to get some CLD and MLV behind it. If the MLV isn't solid, it is a complete waste of time and money.
Trying to stuff some extra wires through for the midbass is going to be challenging. I'd prefer not to run the 18 gauge OEM wires for a couple reasons, but we'll see how that works. I have 200' of OFC 16 gauge I would like to use to wire the entire system. I prefer to separate everything from the OEM wiring whenever possible. Easier to troubleshoot issues that may arise (ground hum, etc.).
Fitting an 8" midbass will also present some interesting challenges. The tolerances come down to mm's. The speaker mount will have to be cut up a bit with the baffle placed perfectly to keep the door panel from hitting the driver or baffle. I'll probably end up removing the speaker grille to ensure I have it aligned perfectly before finalizing.
This modular carrier assembly is also a major PITA. What a crappy design. I love having to disassemble everything down to even the door handle, to remove the assembly for access to the outer skin.
