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Clang on Start up!?

BuckRebel2020

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Hi guys, I have a 2020 rebel with the 5.7 Hemi. Every once in a while I will hear a "Clang" when it first turns over on start up. I can't seem to get the dealer's service department to even get me a diagnosis without dropping off my truck for 2-3 days!!! That being said, I was curious if any of you have had this happen in case I am worrying over nothing. The noise is short and only happens 1 time when the engine first turns over. It only happens 1 out of every 8-10 startups. Any thoughts?? I work construction and can't be without my truck for days on end because a disorganized service department can't get their act together. I even made an appointment for diagnosis only to be told when i go there to drop it off and "we'll let you know something next week."
 

Lit_AF

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Mine does the same, it's hard to duplicate the sound at the dealer, I was thinking it is an exhaust leak somewhere. Could be wrong.
 

Scram1500

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It has something to do with the brakes or related to the braking system. Next time you start the truck, take your foot off the brake pedal the moment it starts to turn over. Mine no longer clanks since I started doing this
 

SD Rebel

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There is a pretty long thread about it, in short you can usually prevent it by lightly toughing the brakes when you hit the start button (instead of a hard press) or only using the remote start to turn on the truck. We don't know why it happens, but after it while, it usually stops happening.

I haven't heard mine do it in months.
 

silver billet

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As SD Rebel said, don't hang onto the brake pedal when it turns over. Press it lightly and quickly enough just for the computer to recognize "this guy has his foot on the brake, it's safe to turn engine on", but release the brake before it actually "catches". Might take a time or two to get the timing right, but after that as long as you get it right, you'll never hear the clank again. Nobody knows what exactly is clanking, just that having the brake pressed (tightly) when the engine catches makes it clank. There is a lot of torque or twist in the truck when the engine catches (you can feel it), that probably has something to do with it.
 

DarthRaider

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Hello People, I also have a noise issue on startup. I have a 2019 Ram Laramie 1500 . I am currently at 15k miles. And since I've had the vehicle, I occasionally get this terrible noise on startup. It goes away after a few seconds but it definitely is noticeable. I've taken it to the dealership 3x over the issue. First 2x they said they couldn't reproduce it. Third time I went in with video of the issue. They kept the truck overnight, said they definitely heard it and then diagnosed it as the following: "vehicle sits oil bleeds down & when first started has to pump the oil throughout engine until oil pressure is achieved it may sound rough for a second, normal operation and characteristic of 5.7 hemi." Needless to say, I'm still worried about that kind of rattle on a vehicle that is essentially new. Is this really "normal"? If I went to buy a vehicle that sounded like that on initial startup, I'd walk/run the other way. Worried to say the least. From reading other's experiences, I'll try the brake touch approach, BUT I was also having the same noise on remote starts.

Second Issue I had is the headlight switch stopped working. Headlights stayed on whenever car was on. They fixed that issue, but now I notice that my adaptive headlights don't seem to be working. Not the auto high beams, but the little side lighting that comes on when you're turning a corner. Anybody else have this happen?

Warranty repairs
-Headlight switch
-Tailgate release switch stopped working and was repaired

** Noticed they had WARNING paperwork in my file in regards to the fact that my vehicle has been in multiple times for warranty repairs. Is that standard procedure with dealerships? Should I be more worried?
 

BuckRebel2020

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Hello People, I also have a noise issue on startup. I have a 2019 Ram Laramie 1500 . I am currently at 15k miles. And since I've had the vehicle, I occasionally get this terrible noise on startup. It goes away after a few seconds but it definitely is noticeable. I've taken it to the dealership 3x over the issue. First 2x they said they couldn't reproduce it. Third time I went in with video of the issue. They kept the truck overnight, said they definitely heard it and then diagnosed it as the following: "vehicle sits oil bleeds down & when first started has to pump the oil throughout engine until oil pressure is achieved it may sound rough for a second, normal operation and characteristic of 5.7 hemi." Needless to say, I'm still worried about that kind of rattle on a vehicle that is essentially new. Is this really "normal"? If I went to buy a vehicle that sounded like that on initial startup, I'd walk/run the other way. Worried to say the least. From reading other's experiences, I'll try the brake touch approach, BUT I was also having the same noise on remote starts.

Second Issue I had is the headlight switch stopped working. Headlights stayed on whenever car was on. They fixed that issue, but now I notice that my adaptive headlights don't seem to be working. Not the auto high beams, but the little side lighting that comes on when you're turning a corner. Anybody else have this happen?

Warranty repairs
-Headlight switch
-Tailgate release switch stopped working and was repaired

** Noticed they had WARNING paperwork in my file in regards to the fact that my vehicle has been in multiple times for warranty repairs. Is that standard procedure with dealerships? Should I be more worried?
Hey Darthraider, The guys were right on the brakes. If you press just lightly enough for the push start to engage, no noise. Push any harder and the CLANG shows up! give it a try. Sorry, but I can't speak to the headlight switch.
 

Lake Ram

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Glad there is a thread on this. Mine just started the other day when the temperature dropped into then 40's. It goes away after the engine starts, but it definitley gets your attention.
 

BowDown

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It has something to do with the brakes or related to the braking system. Next time you start the truck, take your foot off the brake pedal the moment it starts to turn over. Mine no longer clanks since I started doing this

I agree and I believe its in the master cylinder and effected by vacuum which is why it only happens when the truck has been sitting for a few hours. My suspicion is that it has to do with the brake booster and the sudden draw of vacuum when the engine is started.
 

Snakes709

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I agree and I believe its in the master cylinder and effected by vacuum which is why it only happens when the truck has been sitting for a few hours. My suspicion is that it has to do with the brake booster and the sudden draw of vacuum when the engine is started.

has nothing to do with the brakes. Mine did it when i remote started it as well. I put a camera under the truck to record it and its the driveshaft spinning a few degree’s and locking up in the rear diff.
 

silver billet

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has nothing to do with the brakes. Mine did it when i remote started it as well. I put a camera under the truck to record it and its the driveshaft spinning a few degree’s and locking up in the rear diff.
Oh it's definitely worse with the brakes. Many people have written in various threads about this, there is a specific clang/clunk which happens only once, immediately when the engine catches, and holding onto the brake pedal when the engine catches makes this particular issue worse.

I have the same thing in my truck. Happens 10 times out of 10 when holding onto the brake, and never happens when I don't hold onto it.
 

Scram1500

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I forgot what it sounds like, haven't heard it in months now. Removing my foot from the brake is second nature, just like using the gear selector to disable MDS
 

Snakes709

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Oh it's definitely worse with the brakes. Many people have written in various threads about this, there is a specific clang/clunk which happens only once, immediately when the engine catches, and holding onto the brake pedal when the engine catches makes this particular issue worse.

I have the same thing in my truck. Happens 10 times out of 10 when holding onto the brake, and never happens when I don't hold onto it.

yea i saw all those posts.i was able to duplicate the sound 8/10 timee with or without brakes while starting the truck myself and same amount of times remote start. It is time dependant ill give you that. It has to sit for awhile in order to do it. And its violent enough that it shakes the truck and loud enough my wife heard it 25ft away. But what i saw on my video is the driveshaft spinning a few degree’s and locking up in the rear diff. I showed that to the dealership snd thry said it was normal
 

BowDown

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has nothing to do with the brakes. Mine did it when i remote started it as well. I put a camera under the truck to record it and its the driveshaft spinning a few degree’s and locking up in the rear diff.

Then you may have a different issue. I can hear it from time to time and its definitely in the left front near the firewall.
Secondly, all automatic transmissions have what's called a parking pawl that engages when the trans is placed in park. This pawl locks the gearset so that it cannot move which is why the vehicle cannot move in park. For the driveshaft to rotate on startup, the pawl would have to be disengaged and the truck able to move.
 

DarthRaider

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Hey Darthraider, The guys were right on the brakes. If you press just lightly enough for the push start to engage, no noise. Push any harder and the CLANG shows up! give it a try. Sorry, but I can't speak to the headlight switch.
Hello People, thanks for the insight. I would say I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one having this issue, BUT it still is unsettling. That being said, I did try the brake pedal "tap" on startups and have found that it does work MOST of the time. However, on cold, remote starts it definitely is still there, as well as the occasional warm start up even with the brake pedal tap technique. One more year of bumper to bumper....

Cheers,
 

BowDown

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Hello People, thanks for the insight. I would say I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one having this issue, BUT it still is unsettling. That being said, I did try the brake pedal "tap" on startups and have found that it does work MOST of the time. However, on cold, remote starts it definitely is still there, as well as the occasional warm start up even with the brake pedal tap technique. One more year of bumper to bumper....

Cheers,

I never hear it on remote starts or warm starts which really should be called starts where brake booster still has vacuum. The only time I hear this noise is on a startup when there's no vacuum and on mine, its the left front near or in the brake booster. It actually sounds like the piston/diaphragm in the brake booster connected to the brake input rod. When there's vacuum, no noise, no vacuum, noisy diaphragm when the brake rod is engaged. I bet I can repeat it by bleeding off the vacuum from the brake booster after a startup
 

DarthRaider

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You guys still alive;). Yep, reviving a 2year old thread because that damn clang is still there....anybody find a True cure? Only 25k miles on this Laramie. Love the truck, just don't trust it for the long haul.....
 

BuckRebel2020

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You guys still alive;). Yep, reviving a 2year old thread because that damn clang is still there....anybody find a True cure? Only 25k miles on this Laramie. Love the truck, just don't trust it for the long haul.....
Hi DarhRaider, I haven't had any issues since trying lightly tapping the breaks on start up. If my foot is heavy, then yes, but otherwise, no issues at all.
 

DarthRaider

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Mine keeps on clanging for a few seconds until warm. After doing a deep internet dive, I've found that this may be an exhaust manifold leak/ warped manifold/broken studs. Seems to be a common problem with 5.7s. Only 22k or so miles on this truck and it's been an issue since I bought it. I dont trust my local dealer service dept to be honest. (They've had the truck 3x) Would have qualified as a lemon if I knew then what I know now. Stil have engine and trans warranty. Wondering what my next steps should be. Seems like FCA knows all about the issue. From my research the best fix is to have manifolds resurfaced or planed and new bolts installed. IDK. Disappointed.
 

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