bent rear window frame on A.R.E. CX series topper - can I fix it?

[millerbjm]

I was getting ready to go out of town last week and loading the truck and camper and in the process closed the tailgate on my truck but left the topper rear gate up and then tried to back out of the garage and bent the door frame so it no longer will close tight enough to latch/lock. Ran over to my topper guy and he said no way to repair - have to replace at $775 for the door plus $175 labor for install. Looking at the door most everything is attached with rivets and removal doesn't look simple but anyone have thought s on how I might be able to bend the frame back in line enough to at least latch/lock?

 

[Rick3478]

Ouch! I'm sometimes handy at patching, so I'll float an idea.
First a couple comments;
1) how did that not break the glass?
2) anything you do to straighten it is even more likely to break the glass.
Having said that, I'm guessing that the frame is a hollow or c-section aluminum extrusion. So if there is enough of an internal void area, maybe you can use an oscillating tool with a saw blade to cut a wedge out of each side so it's easy to bend back straight, then slide a reinforcing bar or rod up inside each side and glue or screw those in place. Good luck, friend.

 

[millerbjm]

Ouch! I'm sometimes handy at patching, so I'll float an idea.
First a couple comments;
1) how did that not break the glass?
2) anything you do to straighten it is even more likely to break the glass.
Having said that, I'm guessing that the frame is a hollow or c-section aluminum extrusion. So if there is enough of an internal void area, maybe you can use an oscillating tool with a saw blade to cut a wedge out of each side so it's easy to bend back straight, then slide a reinforcing bar or rod up inside each side and glue or screw those in place. Good luck, friend.

I was also amazed the glass didn't break. I started backing up and the truck just stopped luke when the auto breaking happens so I pulled forward and turned off the rear sensors and did it again! I'm also really surprised I didn't damage the garage! Expensive lesson to learn I guess.

 

[Yankee Echo]

If the topper is still a current ARE model, I'd try contacting the manufacturer directly to see if they'd sell you a replacement door. I've had good luck with that working in the past.

Even if you were able to unbend it enough to latch I doubt it would ever be right - leak, etc.

 

[mikeru82]

Rivets are easily drilled out. I'd try disassembling it and seeing if I could straighten each piece individually. Then reassemble with new rivets.

 

[Threesuns1]

A couple years ago I drove under our dog run cable with my 2000 F250 with 2000 ARE cap/window open. The handle snagged the cable and ripped door/window hinge from the metal frame around the cap and the racked door/window was laying on the ground. After I finished cussing, I went to the garage and dissembled the frame and hinge by drilling the 3/16 rivets from hinge and 1/8 rivets from frame, straightened window frame, and pop riveted it back together. It's been fine, no problems. My way of looking at it is, "if man made it man can fix it."

FYI- That cap lasted so well I just had an ARE Z2 put on my Ram, frameless windows of course.

 

[millerbjm]

If the topper is still a current ARE model, I'd try contacting the manufacturer directly to see if they'd sell you a replacement door. I've had good luck with that working in the past.

Even if you were able to unbend it enough to latch I doubt it would ever be right - leak, etc.

I reached out to ARE and they just said I had to go through a dealer but could ship around. Think I'll try to disassemble and fix before ordering the new door and see how it goes.

 

[millerbjm]

Thanks for the ideas everyone. Probably going to try and fix it myself before ordering the new door. If I can get it to latch I'll be happy enough. Figure even if I make it worse I would be ordering a new one regardless so worth a shot.

 

[millerbjm]

Finally got a chance to work on it - used an oscillating saw to cut small wedges and then clamps with some blocking to bend the frame back into shape. Filled in the remaining gaps with jb weld to set overnight so we'll see if it holds enough to be usable tomorrow. Special thanks to Rick7438 for the ideas - nice to not have to disassemble anyrhing.