Adding power outlets to the bed?

[killerformula]

Hey all,

I really am enjoying my 22 Laramie, but one of the things that’s really annoying about this truck is they makes no effort to put power into the bed. Has anyone come up with a solution? I have read a few threads on this but saw nothing that looked like a real, permanent solution…

 

[Darksteel165]

Swap out your bed for a bed with ramboxes, those have power in the bed

 

[Bootaggie]

Anybody seen this done?

 

[Darksteel165]

Anybody seen this done?

You can do whatever you want, they are just beds that sit on the frame.

You can also just run electric cables to a empty fuse slot and install an outlet in the bed also. Can just follow where the rear camera and or lights go.

 

[Bootaggie]

Sorry,I was referring to adding a Rambox on a truck that was standard bed originally.

 

[PurpleRT]

Hmmm what exactly are you trying to power up? Might make it easier for to make some suggestions.


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[Darksteel165]

Sorry,I was referring to adding a Rambox on a truck that was standard bed originally.

I know you were.
Pickup beds just sit on the frame, there is wiring for the Ramboxes for electrical.
You would need a whole new bed, one that is for Ramboxes, then the 2 Ramboxes themselves and the electrical receptacles for each one.

 

[jimothy]

Are you looking for AC or DC power? I ran 12V DC to the passenger side, and added USB and a cig plug back there rear of my truck.

 

[killerformula]

Well, I decided to run some 10 gauge wire back to the bed and feed it into a wire loom to protect it. There's an unused high voltage post on the power distribution module under the hood where I can put a loop fitting and a bolt. I'll zip tie it to protect it all the way back and feed it through one of the pre-existing holes. I'll probably zip tie the plug to the bed rail. I wanted to avoid drilling any new holes in the bed, and with as much as I'll use it, that's probably a good enough solution. Behind the rail from the bed utility group it won't get hit by anything. I'll use a 20 amp fuse and it will provide me about 240 watts which is about 2 amps at 110 if I needed it. Good enough for a bed.

I saw a guy on another forum who converted the 48 volt e torque battery to 24 volts and fed it to an inverter in the bed of his jeep. I would probably look into that if I was using it a lot more, but again, I am taking a dim view of punching holes in the truck for something I won't use a whole lot.

The only thing I can think I want to power with any regularity is a cooler which has a "battery protection mode" which will cut off it it detects it's draining the 12v battery. So I won't have to worry about unplugging it all the time if I'm driving around with it.

 

[Richard320]

Well, I decided to run some 10 gauge wire back to the bed and feed it into a wire loom to protect it. There's an unused high voltage post on the power distribution module under the hood where I can put a loop fitting and a bolt. I'll zip tie it to protect it all the way back and feed it through one of the pre-existing holes. I'll probably zip tie the plug to the bed rail. I wanted to avoid drilling any new holes in the bed, and with as much as I'll use it, that's probably a good enough solution. Behind the rail from the bed utility group it won't get hit by anything. I'll use a 20 amp fuse and it will provide me about 240 watts which is about 2 amps at 110 if I needed it. Good enough for a bed.

I saw a guy on another forum who converted the 48 volt e torque battery to 24 volts and fed it to an inverter in the bed of his jeep. I would probably look into that if I was using it a lot more, but again, I am taking a dim view of punching holes in the truck for something I won't use a whole lot.

The only thing I can think I want to power with any regularity is a cooler which has a "battery protection mode" which will cut off it it detects it's draining the 12v battery. So I won't have to worry about unplugging it all the time if I'm driving around with it.

Voltage drop is less of an issue the hgher the voltage gets. You could buy a BIG inverter and mount it underhood using some fat battery cables to the lugs. The just thread an extension cord to the bed. If the plug end is off it's easy to run a cable up through the stake pocket and out one of the side holes. Then you could attach an electrical box and plugs.

 

[Threesuns1]

For 12v power, bed led lights, third brake light in cap, and future accessories, I'm tapping into trailer wiring with a 5th wheel extension kit. I will cut the end off and run it to a junction box, from there the sky's the limit. For 120v a/c I use a Honda 2000 generator.

 

[killerformula]

Voltage drop is less of an issue the hgher the voltage gets. You could buy a BIG inverter and mount it underhood using some fat battery cables to the lugs. The just thread an extension cord to the bed. If the plug end is off it's easy to run a cable up through the stake pocket and out one of the side holes. Then you could attach an electrical box and plugs.

That is a great idea, and I do have a 1500 watt inverter. The only drawback I see is that it will continually be drawing a small current or I will have to switch it on and off.

 

[Bootaggie]

Y’all think it would be hard to find a bed and Rambox components?

 

[PurpleRT]

Probably, there seems to be more non Redbox trucks then rambox equipped trucks. I know I had a hard time finding one when I was shopping. Seeing as the DT has only been in production since 2019 not a lot of years so finding one from a wrecked truck is gonna be difficult if not expensive. Then factor in more then likely having to paint it to your color. I say you’ll be better off trading your current rig for one w/ them already equipped if you really want them. I had this same idea back with my 4th Gen Ram which you could find a rambox equipped bed much easier but it was still gonna be an expensive conversation and just wasn’t worth it to me when I could just upgrade to a DT model with it instead.


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[BigBear1612]

I just bought an adapter that plugs into the traailer plug for a 12v power plug.