5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Adding aftermarket amp to non amplified ram 1500

ranny

Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2025
Messages
22
Reaction score
2
Points
3
Age
60
Hello all I am wondering how to add a aftermarket amp on a 2022 ram 1500 bighorn. I believe it is non amplified. I’ve seen some PAC harnesses and stuff but I’m still confused. Uconnect wise I upgraded my 8 inch to the 12 inch. Please help thanks! Edit: Looking to retain factory head unit and already have speakers for doors.
 
Last edited:
i thought the 12 always had a amp?
so the ANC is the amp then, use the ANC bypass harness if you cut the speaker plug on the harness it gives you high level out to the amp or you can use a LOC and the other side would goto the speakers. that's what i did for my last customer. it requires a bit of know how and running wires. if your not familiar with that type of work i recommend you pay a shop to do the work.
if you add a amp your gonna need better speakers so i assume your ready to spend 500-1000 bucks or more depending on you equipment choices for amp, speakers, labor and the other item's needed to accomplish it.
 
Last edited:
i thought the 12 always had a amp?
so the ANC is the amp then, use the ANC bypass harness if you cut the speaker plug on the harness it gives you high level out to the amp or you can use a LOC and the other side would goto the speakers. that's what i did for my last customer. it requires a bit of know how and running wires. if your not familiar with that type of work i recommend you pay a shop to do the work.
I upgraded from the 8 to the 12 the car can with a 8 inch
 
i thought the 12 always had a amp?
so the ANC is the amp then, use the ANC bypass harness if you cut the speaker plug on the harness it gives you high level out to the amp or you can use a LOC and the other side would goto the speakers. that's what i did for my last customer. it requires a bit of know how and running wires. if your not familiar with that type of work i recommend you pay a shop to do the work.
And I already have the bypass harness because of my subs in the underseat
 
Isn’t it 6 channel tho?
no it's a 5 i did 2 ram's with that amp. this video is the JP95 the newer version is the JP95T it's better in quite a few ways but still the same if that makes sense.
it only needs 4 inputs to do 5 channels

 
no it's a 5 i did 2 ram's with that amp. this video is the JP95 the newer version is the JP95T it's better in quite a few ways but still the same if that makes sense.

Okay so basically I use that loc and then the door and tweeter wired all there on the bypass harness correct?
 
Okay so basically I use that loc and then the door and tweeter wired all there on the bypass harness correct?
correct
i ended up running new wire to the dash/front door speakers because they had a passive 2 way crossover
 
I need an ANC cancelling harness. Can’t find a canadian supplier. Crutchfield.com has one but not on their cdn site.
 
correct
i ended up running new wire to the dash/front door speakers because they had a passive 2 way crossover
I mean can I use a 4 channel instead? I already have amp for a sub. Also is the front tweeters like wired with the front speakers because there’s only 4 wires.
 
yes. i just try to not take up alot of space. look at this 4 channel great for mids and high's or you can get whatever one you want.
it's cheap and not to push RECOIL but the amp's actually perform quite well.
the dash and the front doors are on the same wire's.
i think the first thing you should do is replace the factory speakers they are junk and do the ANC bypass. you may find you don't need a amp
 
yes. i just try to not take up alot of space. look at this 4 channel great for mids and high's or you can get whatever one you want.
it's cheap and not to push RECOIL but the amp's actually perform quite well.
the dash and the front doors are on the same wire's.
i think the first thing you should do is replace the factory speakers they are junk and do the ANC bypass. you may find you don't need a amp
Def need a amp haha I have apocalypse m61ses in the front with 150 hz bass blockers and it’s not as loud as I want it also have a pair for the back but I wanna get the amp done first also not sure what tweeters to get…
 
Def need a amp haha I have apocalypse m61ses in the front with 150 hz bass blockers and it’s not as loud as I want it also have a pair for the back but I wanna get the amp done first also not sure what tweeters to get…
they even come with the adaptors for the dash.
for anyone else looking to replace the dash speakers i see quite a few kicker's and infinity's these could be a better option......
DOWN4SOUND CFXT35 - 3.5 INCH CAR AUDIO SPEAKERS - 130W RMS (PAIR)
 
Last edited:
they even come with the adaptors for the dash.
for anyone else looking to replace the dash speakers i see quite a few kicker's and infinity's these could be a better option......
DOWN4SOUND CFXT35 - 3.5 INCH CAR AUDIO SPEAKERS - 130W RMS (PAIR)
Should I get those 4 ohm because then with the door speakers also 4 ohm they would be 2 ohm then? Instead of some funky 8 and 4 ohm
 
Should I get those 4 ohm because then with the door speakers also 4 ohm they would be 2 ohm then? Instead of some funky 8 and 4 ohm
no i would get 4 ohm it's a long explanation but i will try. as long as they are crossed over 4 ohm the amp will fine. plus any amp can do 2 ohm stereo.
say you have a 3way passive crossover doing a 6.5, 3.5, and a tweeter the freq's are split say 850htz then 850 to 5k then 5k -20k, so with those 3 4ohm speakers the amp will only see 4 ohm's in a given freq range that is how passive crossovers work on components 2way or 3way. a 2 way set that's 110-5k on the mid and 5k-20k on the tweet the freq's are separated so it's two 4 ohm speakers but the amp see's it as one 4 ohm.
really it's best for 99.9% of people to just get a matched set of component's rather than trying to build a set because all the guess work has been taken out.
if you are going to get a 4 channel you should probably put all the door's on 2 channels running 2 ohm with the blockers and set the lowpass on the amp at around 5k for those then use the other 2 channels for the tweets with the highpass set at 5k that way you can set the gains so the mids and the tweeters blend and one don't over power the other. that's what i would do with the equipment you are going to be using.
i'm surprised toejam has not chimed in LOl
 
okay very lost now haha my mind does not comprehend this much. Well I have those ap m61se all 4 ohm 6.5s. Current speakers on all 4 doors with 0-150hz bass blockers. I believe my current door speakers go up to 15k hz. I will probably get those tweeters you mentioned earlier. So I was thinking my door speakers should be set at around 5-7k lpf and then the rest my tweeters handle… also not sure how much stock electrical can take… my subs do around 900w rms and the amp I was thinking on getting was a taramps 1200x4

Amp I’m thinking of getting
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top