5thGenRams Forums

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

2025 Ram 1500 Limited Sub/Amp Install

bshelton8

Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
9
Reaction score
16
Points
3
Age
52
The new Stellantis High architecture is being a pain in my side on many fronts. Tuning, mods and now stereo. I recently installed an aftermarket sub and amplifier in my 2025 Ram 1500 Limited. The install was fairly uneventful overall. I had hoped to use my AP4-CH41 by AmpPRO like I have on many installs to make things easier. As you can see from the picture below, everything plugged in from the harness supplied with the AP4-CH41 and from all aspects looked like it was going to work. However, after running the RCA cables and remote wire, I realized it was not working at all. I verified everything with a fluke power meter and nothing. Evidently some of the pin outs in the factory wiring harness were changed with the new Stellantis High architecture on the 2025's. Below are several pictures of the connections on the back of the screen and AP4-CH41.
20241026_114455.jpg20241026_113737.jpg20241026_113733.jpg

After I realized that the AmpPRO AC4-CH41 wasn't going to work, I had no choice but to install the LC2i PRO by Audio Control. The LC2i PRO does the job but I always have issues with floor noise and random humming even with the radio completely off. This is common in all makes and models of cars I have used the LC2i PRO. The LC2i PRO just requires lots of tweaking and tunning to get things just right. I tapped into the factory subwoofer leads for the signal feeding the LC2i PRO. Since I was only interested in adding a subwoofer, tapping the factory subwoofer leads works just fine. If you are wanting to install mid-range door speakers and/or tweeters, you would need to tap into the door speakers to get a better frequency range feeding the LC2i PRO.

Here are some pictures of the back during the install phase. I just used liquid nail to glue a piece of MDF to the back wall behind the drivers seat. After the MDF was installed, I placed dynomat to the back wall to quite things down and help with the sound.
20241026_175833.jpg20241026_180157.jpg

Here is a picture of the fuse block and power cable ran in the engine bay. This part was fairly straight forward with no issues.
20241027_173614.jpg

The end goal was just for a simple clean install to add more bass, nothing competition level. Below are some pictures of the final install.
20241027_165400.jpg
20241026_192649-jpg.192952
20241026_192730-jpg.192953
 

Attachments

  • 20241026_114918.jpg
    20241026_114918.jpg
    151.6 KB · Views: 7
  • 20241026_192649.jpg
    20241026_192649.jpg
    143.8 KB · Views: 42
  • 20241026_192730.jpg
    20241026_192730.jpg
    113.7 KB · Views: 42
I like it! I'm also considering upgrading the bass in my '25. What is that sub box you're using?
 
Last edited:
On my 2019 Rebel I used an Amp pro AP4-CH41 with a Stinger X optical cable to my D4S DSP along with my D4S amps. Doing this has improved the sound drastically.
 
I like it! I'm also considering upgrading the bass in my '25 also. What is that sub box you're using?
It's a Frostbite FBRAM dual series box. Unfortunately, Bruce Wiegand closed the business and you can no longer get these. He had some really good sub boxes at reasonable prices. It's a shame he shut the business down.
 
It's a Frostbite FBRAM dual series box. Unfortunately, Bruce Wiegand closed the business and you can no longer get these. He had some really good sub boxes at reasonable prices. It's a shame he shut the business down.
Thanks for the reply! Would be awesome to find the schematics for it.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top