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2022 Limited alternator

Dietz5285

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What size alternator on 2022 limited? I have ordered a 2023 and am trying to figure out if I will need a DC-DC charger for when I Install Lithium batteries in my travel trailer. From what I read I will not need one if the alternator is big enough.
 
What size alternator on 2022 limited? I have ordered a 2023 and am trying to figure out if I will need a DC-DC charger for when I Install Lithium batteries in my travel trailer. From what I read I will not need one if the alternator is big enough.
your build sheet will have this info
what engine?
 
I looked up the build sheet on a 2022 Limited a local dealer has. It shows 220A.

At any rate, you're limited by the 30A charging fuse feeding the 7way trailer connector.
Only if you are planning to charge through the 7-pin. If you really want the best charging for your battery bank, bypass the connector with an anderson plug that's wired directly to the battery terminals (and consequently the alternator). 220A will flow into your charge controller on the trailer (use the solar controller) and pull what it needs to keep your bank full. Just make sure the wire gauge matches from the battery/truck wiring to the trailer/bank wiring. I'm waiting for a weekend at home to do the same setup on my truck/trailer.
 
What size alternator on 2022 limited? I have ordered a 2023 and am trying to figure out if I will need a DC-DC charger for when I Install Lithium batteries in my travel trailer. From what I read I will not need one if the alternator is big enough.
Which engine are you asking this about? You asking about the alternator on a '22, but you said you ordered a '23. You could get a non-etorque Hemi on '22 models. From what I've read, the only Hemi engine option on '23 models is the etorque version. The reason I'm bringing this up is because there is no alternator on an etorque Hemi.
 
Which engine are you asking this about? You asking about the alternator on a '22, but you said you ordered a '23. You could get a non-etorque Hemi on '22 models. From what I've read, the only Hemi engine option on '23 models is the etorque version. The reason I'm bringing this up is because there is no alternator on an etorque Hemi.
I am getting a 2023 Limited with e torque , if there is no alternator will have to worry about problems with Lithium batteries in my trailer?
 
I am getting a 2023 Limited with e torque , if there is no alternator will have to worry about problems with Lithium batteries in my trailer?
Definitely no alternator on etorque. The 12v battery in the engine bay is charged by the 3kw DC-DC converter in the 48v etorque battery module. You'll want to do some research on whether you can use that system to charge the lithium batteries in your trailer.
 
I am getting a 2023 Limited with e torque , if there is no alternator will have to worry about problems with Lithium batteries in my trailer?
What kind of trailer do you have? How big is the LiFePO bank? How many watts of solar do you have on top? How much more room do you have on the roof?

You've got a few options:
1. Wire the trailer to trickle charge through your 7-pin instead of an Anderson plug. It'll keep you topped off while driving but wouldn't charge your bank unless it was a really long road trip. How big is your Lithium bank on your trailer? How many Ah?
2. I'm assuming you've got a solar array on the trailer. Might be way less of a PITA to just add a panel on the trailer if you're not able to keep the charge level sufficient.
3. Lithium banks are awesome because you can use a lot more of the available Ahs and they recharge faster than AGM or Flooded banks. You might be trying to solve a problem that isn't real.
4. If you're still struggling to keep up, you can either increase your bank size or get a portable generator.
5. No more cold beer camping. :)
 
What kind of trailer do you have? How big is the LiFePO bank? How many watts of solar do you have on top? How much more room do you have on the roof?

You've got a few options:
1. Wire the trailer to trickle charge through your 7-pin instead of an Anderson plug. It'll keep you topped off while driving but wouldn't charge your bank unless it was a really long road trip. How big is your Lithium bank on your trailer? How many Ah?
2. I'm assuming you've got a solar array on the trailer. Might be way less of a PITA to just add a panel on the trailer if you're not able to keep the charge level sufficient.
3. Lithium banks are awesome because you can use a lot more of the available Ahs and they recharge faster than AGM or Flooded banks. You might be trying to solve a problem that isn't real.
4. If you're still struggling to keep up, you can either increase your bank size or get a portable generator.
5. No more cold beer camping. :)
I do not have solar, and am planning on 2 100AH LI on batteries
 
If you really want the best charging for your battery bank, bypass the connector with an anderson plug that's wired directly to the battery terminals (and consequently the alternator). 220A will flow into your charge controller on the trailer (use the solar controller) and pull what it needs to keep your bank full. Just make sure the wire gauge matches from the battery/truck wiring to the trailer/bank wiring. I'm waiting for a weekend at home to do the same setup on my truck/trailer.
@RockYacht2020 - Have you installed your Anderson plug yet? Any details would be appreciated.

I'm in the planning stages. I would like to be able to power a 40A DC-DC charger in my travel trailer. Here is my current thinking for truck-side wiring:
- 6 gauge copper cable from battery 12V+ to breaker/fuse
- 50A circuit breaker (or maybe 50A MAXI fuse)
- 6 gauge 12V+ copper cable from breaker/fuse to Anderson receptacle mounted near 7-pin trailer plug
- 6 gauge 12V- from frame ground to Anderson receptacle.

Is there any reason to run the 12V- directly from the battery instead of from the frame ground?
 
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I have not. After I did the Li battery, I haven't needed to add it, so I have avoided the project until it becomes necessary. I was planning to run +/- from the battery, but I think frame ground makes sense. I'm not an electrician by any means, so I'd run that past a pro, but it sounds right.
 
@RockYacht2020 - Have you installed your Anderson plug yet? Any details would be appreciated.

I'm in the planning stages. I would like to be able to power a 40A DC-DC charger in my travel trailer. Here is my current thinking for truck-side wiring:
- 6 gauge copper cable from battery 12V+ to breaker/fuse
- 50A circuit breaker (or maybe 50A MAXI fuse)
- 6 gauge 12V+ copper cable from breaker/fuse to Anderson receptacle mounted near 7-pin trailer plug
- 6 gauge 12V- from frame ground to Anderson receptacle.

Is there any reason to run the 12V- directly from the battery instead of from the frame ground?
I think in one of the upfitter docs, it had a 50A limit from the rear ground point. 40A out after boost and efficiency losses might be as high as 70A in.
 
Any updates would be greatly appreciated. Do any folks have more information on this: does installing a DC to DC charger from truck battery to camper battery cause any error codes from the 3kw DC-DC converter in the 48v etorque battery module? Is it better to ground to frame or the negative terminal of the truck battery? 50A or 40A circuit breaker? I've posed these questions to our local RV service shop and they say "talk to the RAM dealer" and I've posed these questions to the RAM dealer and they say "talk to the RV people." Quite frustrating for something that seems like it would be rather simple. Thanks much for any help...
 
I can't think of any reason it would cause an error code, unless you run the battery down. So just don't do that. Here's what I would try:

I'm guessing that your DC to DC charger probably has some kind of remote activation wire that you can connect to ignition or accessory circuit so that the charger only operates when the engine is running. If so, use it. Or worst case, wire it with a switch and only turn it on when the engine is running.

As for the ground connection, I believe the battery negative terminal mounts a current sensor that allows the vehicle's systems to keep track of battery charge condition. So DO NOT connect directly to the battery negative terminal. It you do, the system will not be aware of the current you are drawing, and you will run the battery down. You can connect to the frame/body/engine side of the sensor if you can figure out where that is, or where the battery cable bolts to the frame, body, or engine, or less preferred somewhere else on the body or frame.

Your DC to DC charger's instructions should tell you what size breaker to use. And wire. I like marine circuit breakers, but fuses are okay too.
 
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Thanks very much, your comments make good sense.
 

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