2020 Ram fluid change intervals

[rln2814.rr]

Hello all,
I'm a new member to this forum and actually using a computer. Bear with me and my very limited typing skills.
The 2020 Ram Laramie 4x4 5.7 hemi I bought used in "23" is approaching 50,000 miles. I'm looking for info regarding the drive train fluid change intervals and capacities. I'm not the gentlest driver on the road, do have a heavy foot on the throttle while on the pavement and light footed when four wheeling during hunting seasons.
That being said and the lack of knowledge regarding the 20,000 miles on it when purchased I'm changing the tranny filter and fluid at 50,000. I designed and made a delivery system to refill the transmission.
I was totally amazed when I was presale inspecting the truck that I couldn't find the dip stick, almost didn't buy it. let me explain, my previous pickup was a 1997 with almost 400,000 miles and I did, enjoyed doing, all the maintenance on it.
Will need all of the drive train fluid change intervals and capacities information and advice will be appreciated also.
Have a Merry Christmas and happy New Year,
Ralph

 

[vincentw56]

Hello all,
I'm a new member to this forum and actually using a computer. Bear with me and my very limited typing skills.
The 2020 Ram Laramie 4x4 5.7 hemi I bought used in "23" is approaching 50,000 miles. I'm looking for info regarding the drive train fluid change intervals and capacities. I'm not the gentlest driver on the road, do have a heavy foot on the throttle while on the pavement and light footed when four wheeling during hunting seasons.
That being said and the lack of knowledge regarding the 20,000 miles on it when purchased I'm changing the tranny filter and fluid at 50,000. I designed and made a delivery system to refill the transmission.
I was totally amazed when I was presale inspecting the truck that I couldn't find the dip stick, almost didn't buy it. let me explain, my previous pickup was a 1997 with almost 400,000 miles and I did, enjoyed doing, all the maintenance on it.
Will need all of the drive train fluid change intervals and capacities information and advice will be appreciated also.
Have a Merry Christmas and happy New Year,
Ralph

Check the manual for intervals.

 

[n8zcc]

^^^ Bingo!

Everything you need to know is in the scheduled maintenance section of the owner's manual. If you did not get an owner's manual, you can download one from the Internet or use the link included.

 

[SueHarada]

I replace my fluids: brake, diffs, tranny once a yr or if you haul alot, change out x2 a yr. its cheap, good preventive maint.

 

[xjarcher]

So I was at the dealership yesterday. found out my 19 1500 needs a new engine at 122k. We were discussing oil changes and I said I did what the computer told me. The Service manager shook his head and said "Ignore that thing, I don't know why they do that. No more than 5500 miles on a change"

 

[dajogejr]

So I was at the dealership yesterday. found out my 19 1500 needs a new engine at 122k. We were discussing oil changes and I said I did what the computer told me. The Service manager shook his head and said "Ignore that thing, I don't know why they do that. No more than 5500 miles on a change"

Ok, other side of that coin.
There’s a reason he’s a service manager…to sell you things. And not an engineer…
Surprised he didn’t tell you change it ever 3K…

On my 3 previous Rams, 2 of which, well over 100K, changed the oil within 10 to 15% of when it was due, typically 7 to 8K miles.. zero motor issues. Zero motor failures.

The question I have is this. Why does it need an engine, and can the service manager prove that it was related to oil failure And lack of maintenance. I’d bet a large chunk he can’t. Mechanical things fail. Sorry, don’t mean to pick at you xj… you’ll find everyone has an opinion on oil. And it’s more myth/wives tales than any sort of fact.
Someone is going to post shortly bean counters don’t care about you… the warranty is only as good as they expect it to last…
Ying to the Yang.

OP, you’ll most likely find the transmission doesn’t have a change requirement unless you fit into a category of higher abuse.
Safe to say, you may fit…lol.
Fairly certain I’ve read here that the transmission manufacturer recommends fluid/filter replacement at 60K. But you can search that on your own.
For every other fluid change…it’s in the manual, as well as things like cabin filter if equipped, belts, hoses, etc.
Good luck. 400K is no joke, well done sir. In the snowy/salty mitten, the drive train may last but that salt and rust will kill ya

 

[xjarcher]

Engine failure is due to lifter failure in cyl 8 (MDS). I looked into replacing MDS parts and continuing but I"m not finding a very high success rate once there is a bunch of metal parts turned loose in the motor. My plan is to replace the 122k motor with a 45k motor and as soon as possible unlock and tune so I can up the idle RPM to prevent such things.
I will be doing a trans fluid change this summer.

 

[dajogejr]

So a common part with questionable history failed.. you can search for days for Hemi Lifter tick…
And most likely not a failure of oil changing history…

 

[HSKR R/T]

Engine failure is due to lifter failure in cyl 8 (MDS). I looked into replacing MDS parts and continuing but I"m not finding a very high success rate once there is a bunch of metal parts turned loose in the motor. My plan is to replace the 122k motor with a 45k motor and as soon as possible unlock and tune so I can up the idle RPM to prevent such things.
I will be doing a trans fluid change this summer.

Increasing idle RPM isn't going to prevent any issues. Will just burn more fuel.

 

[HSKR R/T]

Hello all,
I'm a new member to this forum and actually using a computer. Bear with me and my very limited typing skills.
The 2020 Ram Laramie 4x4 5.7 hemi I bought used in "23" is approaching 50,000 miles. I'm looking for info regarding the drive train fluid change intervals and capacities. I'm not the gentlest driver on the road, do have a heavy foot on the throttle while on the pavement and light footed when four wheeling during hunting seasons.
That being said and the lack of knowledge regarding the 20,000 miles on it when purchased I'm changing the tranny filter and fluid at 50,000. I designed and made a delivery system to refill the transmission.
I was totally amazed when I was presale inspecting the truck that I couldn't find the dip stick, almost didn't buy it. let me explain, my previous pickup was a 1997 with almost 400,000 miles and I did, enjoyed doing, all the maintenance on it.
Will need all of the drive train fluid change intervals and capacities information and advice will be appreciated also.
Have a Merry Christmas and happy New Year,
Ralph

Vehicles haven't had transmission dip sticks since the mid 2000s. Dodge/RAM started it around 2005/6 when they started using the ZF 5-speed behind the Hemi.

 

[silver billet]

Engine failure is due to lifter failure in cyl 8 (MDS). I looked into replacing MDS parts and continuing but I"m not finding a very high success rate once there is a bunch of metal parts turned loose in the motor. My plan is to replace the 122k motor with a 45k motor and as soon as possible unlock and tune so I can up the idle RPM to prevent such things.
I will be doing a trans fluid change this summer.

Lifter failure has nothing to do with MDS. Even hemis without MDS from the factory (like the manual challengers) have lifter failures.

As for fluid intervals, 5000 miles is a great interval to aim for. Run 5w-30 or 0w-30 if you're in really cold climate. The owners manual should be placed in the garbage bin, they don't even have a recommendation for changing the transmission fluid when ZF who actually builds it, recommends changing it.

I service the diffs and tcase every 60k miles too.

Fluids are cheap, swap that stuff out. All that stuff costs like a tank of gas per year, why would you not?

 

[2021QCBH]

I swapped all my driveline fluids at 50K (not including the transmission). I tow frequently around 4000-5000lbs + Max payload when I’m on trips.

Front axle - Felt bad for changing it it looked so new but I only really used 4x4 on boat ramps with any regularity.
Rear Axle - Looked used but still in good shape
T Case - only slightly darker than the new fluid going in

I’m a 3.21 gear truck so I went with Amsoil severe gear 75-90 in both axles. Factory Mopar fluid in the T case. Factory Mopar fluid in the transmission.

I just changed my trans fluid around 78k and swapped to a PPE pan. The transmission fluid looked immaculate (Much better than some I’ve seen documented online). Darker than the new fluid yes but clean/clear. The trans pan magnet had 0 metal on the magnets and I didn’t see any buildup of clutch material on the bottom. Was very happy with the insides on that one. It’s been up as high as 210 degrees pulling some steep grades or towing in lots of stop and go.

This fall I’l be ready for the 100k service but based on the factory fluid in the front diff I’ll likely extend that one out to a 100k interval.

 

[xjarcher]

I merely indicated that it was a MDS lifter that failed. My understanding is the idle speed is so low that some lifters receive very little lubrication if extended idling takes place.
Interesting that here I'm seeing -w30 recommendations and many other places say -w20. I'd like to see more research on that.
Doing the trans fluid looks challenging without a hoist. I guess I'll YT it and see how it's done.

 

[HSKR R/T]

I merely indicated that it was a MDS lifter that failed. My understanding is the idle speed is so low that some lifters receive very little lubrication if extended idling takes place.
Interesting that here I'm seeing -w30 recommendations and many other places say -w20. I'd like to see more research on that.
Doing the trans fluid looks challenging without a hoist. I guess I'll YT it and see how it's done.

Your owners manual, at least my 2020 one actually says use 5w-30 in extreme conditions

 

[2021QCBH]

I ran a 2010 up to 140k on nothing but 5-20 and no lifter issues. MDS never deactivated.

My moms also had hemi Durangos since about 2010 and they run them up to around 100k on recommended oil without issue.

If there was definitive proof the 20w was the issue I’d swap to 30w but I’ve logged 220k miles on eagle generation Hemis personally without any issue on 5-20.

I did run 5-30 conventional in my 08. It consumed oil at an alarming rate on synthetic 5-20. Was a well cared for one owner 50k mile truck but it drank oil.

 

[silver billet]

If there was definitive proof the 20w was the issue I’d swap to 30w but I’ve logged 220k miles on eagle generation Hemis personally without any issue on 5-20.

What is "definite proof"? The science of tribology says that 30w always offers more protection than 20w in the same formula. So we do know that a 30w is better, and if you have tracked UOA's over many oil changes with different grades (like I have), then I can see that the 2 runs with the highest amount of wear, were the runs I used a 20 grade oil.

What we don't have, is a number for measuring how much you are reducing your engine lifetime. That's a hard thing to measure without tearing into the engine, and that will change depending on driving style, city vs rural, towing and other factors etc.

But the science itself is clear; 30w is better than 20w.

 

[HSKR R/T]

What is "definite proof"? The science of tribology says that 30w always offers more protection than 20w in the same formula. So we do know that a 30w is better, and if you have tracked UOA's over many oil changes with different grades (like I have), then I can see that the 2 runs with the highest amount of wear, were the runs I used a 20 grade oil.

What we don't have, is a number for measuring how much you are reducing your engine lifetime. That's a hard thing to measure without tearing into the engine, and that will change depending on driving style, city vs rural, towing and other factors etc.

But the science itself is clear; 30w is better than 20w.

The science of tribology says not all engines need the same oil, and the base oils and additive package makes a bigger difference than the difference between a 20 weight and a 30 weight. Also, UOAs are only a guideline, and without knowing exactly what you are looking at, and also without completely flushing out the old oil when you change blends/brands, any results of following UOA are invalid. If you always use the same brand, weight, blend, then no need for flushes. But nobody is going to waste 7qts of oil to do a proper flush.

He is not going to hurt his truck running either weight, as long as he is using good quality oil.

 

[dajogejr]

Another oil thread… who would’ve thought…

 

[2021QCBH]

What is "definite proof"? The science of tribology says that 30w always offers more protection than 20w in the same formula. So we do know that a 30w is better, and if you have tracked UOA's over many oil changes with different grades (like I have), then I can see that the 2 runs with the highest amount of wear, were the runs I used a 20 grade oil.

What we don't have, is a number for measuring how much you are reducing your engine lifetime. That's a hard thing to measure without tearing into the engine, and that will change depending on driving style, city vs rural, towing and other factors etc.

But the science itself is clear; 30w is better than 20w.

So, you’ve tracked the additional wear on the UOAs directly to the lifter needle roller bearings right?

My UOAs on both trucks are shining. If anything, a thinner oil will get to a non pressurized (Splash lubricated) location better being more flowable.

 

[Willwork4truck]

This one is headed to popcorn time, ha ha.

While I plead guilty to helping destroy the environment by changing oil at or below 5K, my investment of $60K is worth the extra 100-200 a year that the extra changes cost me, IMHO.
Some service managers are greedy for sales while some are ex-techs who understand real maintenance needs.
Engineers often have to do what the bean counters tell them to do, ie. “get it past the warranty”. Lots of room for competing ideas and conspiracy theories.

Do what you want, likely nobody is going to change peeps minds on fluid change intervals. Just don't leave the next owner a turd because you were too cheap to change the fluids by at least the factory maintenance schedule.