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2020 HK 19 Speaker OEM Amp bypass with Helix V Twelve Channel Amp/DSP

JustCallMeD

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Hi All,

So firstly I would like to thank everyone from this community for posting all kinds of information of what they've done and what they've found by trying different things and also those who sent me back replies to my PM's.

Long story short, the stock HK 19 SPK system was driving me nuts for a few different reasons. After reading through everything for weeks, I felt that the main issue with this stock system is the tune and lack of an effective equalizer (At a minimum) to change the built in DSP parameters (Talking the OEM amplifier stock tune). Therefore before changing out any speakers from factory, I really wanted to see what the stock speakers could do with a proper tune, including the dreaded subwoofer... Also at the same time I do not want to cut an factory wiring so I can somewhat easily put everything back to stock when I decide to switch the truck.

My install:
- PAC AMP Pro CH41 R.2
- Optional TOSLINK optical output (APA-TOS1) + Optical Cable
- PAC Wiring Harness APH-CH03 (Learned the hard way that CH01 does NOT work with HK 19)
- Helix V Twelve DSP
- Helix Wifi Control
- Helix D One
- 1/0 Pure Copper 4000+ Strand power cable from battery
- 150 A breaker
- Power/Ground distribution block with ANC mini fuses
- 4 Ga Power and Ground out of distribution block

Took me about three days to get all this installed as had to use a buddies garage without a lot of room or organized tools.
All trim on the driver side removed, rear seats removed, rear carpet removed to expose back wall to mount everything and then everything put back like it never happened. The install is not the cleanest with the amps and wiring but I figured it was behind the carpet anyway so it won't be seen. When it gets warmer I may do a more visual style with some lexan and lighting just in case I every flip the back seat forward for some reason.

So I've always been into Audio and tuning but this has to be as in depth as I've gone so far. The OEM amp was completely bypassed (Has to remain hooked up though for data signal) and replaced with the Helix V Twelve to run a fully active setup for all speakers (RAM advertises the HK as 19 speakers but there are actually only twelve outputs from the OEM amp - All the 3.5" speakers are two ways making 19 with the Sub). therefore I setup every speaker with exactly what crossover, slope, and frequencies I chose (Also a lot of reading, but fun).

The difference is absolutely night and day. I'm very impressed with the stock speakers with a proper tune, they are no audiophile grade but I'll say that they are very impressive. I ran an RTA with microphone at drivers headrest on the baseline HK before any changes and it clearly shows a few peaks right at the frequencies of what most are complaining about be it the scratchy highs or bass droan/boominess.

My theory was to address the root cause before changing out any speakers to band aid the problem... Now of course I have the itch so speakers will be changed out soon enough as well.

Hopefully I can provide any answers to anyone if they need.

Also in case anyone is interested, have a Helix V Eight DSP (Amp) for sale which would be perfect for an active setup as well with 8 speakers plus sub amp...
 

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(RAM advertises the HK as 19 speakers but there are actually only twelve outputs from the OEM amp - All the 3.5" speakers are two ways making 19 with the Sub)

triple-facepalm.jpg
 
Nice setup but I think the equalizer is the bandaid, but it works until you replace the speakers, I don't know about the HK but on the Alpine they don't even have tweeters, you can make a midrange sound close to a tweeter with an equalizer but no the same.

Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk
 
Thanks! The HK has 12 speaker locations in total so there are tweeters as part of the two way 3.5" as far as I know. The frequency response from the mic/RTA after tuning does get all the frequencies after tuning to a pretty good level for all. That being said there is definitely some distortion when pushing the factory speakers by balancing the eq out working with the RTA so ya, I'm with ya on getting a speaker upgrade for sure.

Hard to decide on component sets though, researching now. Though I have a set of Blam Live 6.5 and tweets waiting to be installed already 🤦🏻‍♂️
Nice setup but I think the equalizer is the bandaid, but it works until you replace the speakers, I don't know about the HK but on the Alpine they don't even have tweeters, you can make a midrange sound close to a tweeter with an equalizer but no the same.

Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk
 
them counting a multi coil speaker as a whole other speaker is dastardly
Agree'd! I don't know why they wouldn't have just run a proper 3 way component set up front in the first place 🤷🏻‍♂️ The part number from Mopar is the same for every "small" speaker location front, door and rear... Blahhhh
 
The Alpine and the base system only has 1 6x9 in the doors and most people replace them with a coaxial and that can't sound right with another coaxial in the dash, I had a hard time finding the right place for the tweeter on my 6x9 components, I had to put it as high as I could and as close to the dash speakers as possible for the whole thing to sound right.
6aaff49d4d2f1d01e11e4d1d8cc6f516.jpg


Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk
 
The Alpine and the base system only has 1 6x9 in the doors and most people replace them with a coaxial and that can't sound right with another coaxial in the dash, I had a hard time finding the right place for the tweeter on my 6x9 components, I had to put it as high as I could and as close to the dash speakers as possible for the whole thing to sound right.
6aaff49d4d2f1d01e11e4d1d8cc6f516.jpg


Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk
The Alpine and the base system only has 1 6x9 in the doors and most people replace them with a coaxial and that can't sound right with another coaxial in the dash, I had a hard time finding the right place for the tweeter on my 6x9 components, I had to put it as high as I could and as close to the dash speakers as possible for the whole thing to sound right.
6aaff49d4d2f1d01e11e4d1d8cc6f516.jpg


Sent from my SM-G977U using Tapatalk
Running multiple coaxials would definitely play havoc on the acoustics in the truck for sure, having the mid to high frequencies down low is not an ideal setup for sure. It's too bad you couldn't get the kids where the tweets are and the tweets up on the dash for a smoother low-mid-high transition from bottom to top. Hopefully MTI or someone will come out with a dual mid/tweet bolt on Mount option on of these days, could prob fit that right where your tweeter is now. You don't notice any alignment or timing issues with the passive setup you have right now?
 
Running multiple coaxials would definitely play havoc on the acoustics in the truck for sure, having the mid to high frequencies down low is not an ideal setup for sure. It's too bad you couldn't get the kids where the tweets are and the tweets up on the dash for a smoother low-mid-high transition from bottom to top. Hopefully MTI or someone will come out with a dual mid/tweet bolt on Mount option on of these days, could prob fit that right where your tweeter is now. You don't notice any alignment or timing issues with the passive setup you have right now?
Kids=mids lol
 
Running multiple coaxials would definitely play havoc on the acoustics in the truck for sure, having the mid to high frequencies down low is not an ideal setup for sure. It's too bad you couldn't get the kids where the tweets are and the tweets up on the dash for a smoother low-mid-high transition from bottom to top. Hopefully MTI or someone will come out with a dual mid/tweet bolt on Mount option on of these days, could prob fit that right where your tweeter is now. You don't notice any alignment or timing issues with the passive setup you have right now?
It actually turned out really well, I have a set of JBL GTO 3.5 on the dash and they are amazing speakers (sold-out everywhere) voice is very clear it reflects from the windshield and creates a perfect staging environment the tweeters from the components enhance the stereo effect where they are placed and the 6x9 midbass is very neutral they should have a little more presence but for that I have to attenuate the tweeter at least 3db, but the crossovers are inside the doors

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Definitely need a subwoofer in there

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Ok so that's before equalizer?
Never mind then looks like there's plenty of bass, it's actually not too bad besides after 8k

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i want to mount a board to the back.did you drill them in or just use adhesive.looks "Great'! (y) i have my here...
 

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I have a board I created specifically for the E-torque models. I still have the template and can create another. I attached it with 2 M6 rivnuts and and M10 rivnut in exsiting blind holes behind the panel. ram 1500 amp rack.jpgWill also work with non E-torque. Contact me for more information
 

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I have a board I created specifically for the E-torque models. I still have the template and can create another. I attached it with 2 M6 rivnuts and and M10 rivnut in exsiting blind holes behind the panel. View attachment 82323Will also work with non E-torque. Contact me for more information
So this is just covering where the factory sub was so that you can mount your amps to it right?
 
I have a board I created specifically for the E-torque models. I still have the template and can create another. I attached it with 2 M6 rivnuts and and M10 rivnut in exsiting blind holes behind the panel. View attachment 82323Will also work with non E-torque. Contact me for more information
"KILLER" :love:
 
Yep, You take out the factory sub and mount that board where it goes.
 
So this is just covering where the factory sub was so that you can mount your amps to it right?
thats what i want to do.i like to have it on the other side.since i only have just the one amp(5ch)but take what i can get.you mounted so well i dont even see the rivets👍
 

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