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2019 5.7 E-torque belt/tensioner.

Snert

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Well folks here for advice.

The above mentioned truck has 120,000 miles and I am the original owner.

Last week the start/stop system shut the engine off at a traffic light. When I let off the brake, it did not restart and the service start/stop message and light came on. There was NO check engine light, just the yellow "A with the rotation arrow" for thebstart/stop.

However, when it did not restart, i quickly put it into park, and it restarted without hitting the start button.

I then used the start/stop off button and drive home. Once home I shut the truck off open the drivers door and closed it. I waited about 30 seconds for all lights to turn off. I then started the truck, no more Start/Stop light.

The next morning, I remote start the truck and head out to work. I get into town , stop at A traffic light, truck shuts off. When I let off the brake it hesitated to restart a little. Acted a little weird and did restart. With that it set off a CEL, no messages stored on the dash display. So I just hit the off button for the Start/Stop. Truck ran fine no noise or smells, 100% normal.

After work I called the dealership and they said to stop by and they will check it out. I asked if this would have anything to do with water from the leaking rear window cracked frame. They said won't know until we hook it up and scan to see what codes are stored.

They scan it, do some investigating and the service writer says they found it has nothing to do with the window leak or the modules below the window.

The issue was the tensioner were not holding the belt tight enough for the start/stop to engage. This caused the system to set off the CEL the second time due to a longer fault time And the belt slipping.

The tech cleared the light and suggested to shut the start/stop off by the dash switch until repaired.

Quote was for 2 new belts and the 2 tensioner, total cost of $780.00. This was 1.5hrs labor at $170 hr, The rest was parts.

Truck is out of warranty due to mileage, and has been dealer serviced from day one. It had 22 miles on it the day I took delivery.

Looking online I can get the OEM parts, belts and 2 tensioners for just over $300.
Looking at the motor, everything is out in the open and seems pretty straight forward as a DYI.

But brings in a few questions...
1-On the 2 tensioner units, are they a straight forward R&R? Or is there more then meets the eye, as in remove more items to get access to the mounting bolts?

2- is there a special tool or trick to get the water pump belt on? Or is it a old school place it on and rotate motor to walk it onto the pulley? Or remove pulley and reinstall back with belt, like doing a old timing chain.

3- would you use a factory OEM Mopar belt or a aftermarket from Napa etc.
 

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I would use an oem belt. I have read others have bought aftermarket and they were not as wide despite claiming to fit.

Do any of these documents help? Looks like there is a cheap tool you can get to assist with getting it on and off, not sure if you need it though.
 

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I changed my tensioner while it was still under warranty because it was only 100 and the thought of having to leave it at the dealer and get a ride etc was not worth it. It is straight forward. There will be a pin in the new one. Remove old one after taking the belt off. Put new one in and put belt on it. Remove pin and it auto-tensions. Took no more than 30 minutes. As for the other belts I didn't replace them at the time.
 
Thank you, DarkSteel165 the documents do help. Only thing that now concerns me is the last step.

" use diagnostic scan tool under hybrid control processor, in miscellaneous controls do belt capacity adaption reset and clear codes."

There are no CEL currently due to dealer clearing them. But what exactly is the "Belt capacity reset".

Not sure this requires a special scan tool or something I can purchase locally.
 
Thank you, DarkSteel165 the documents do help. Only thing that now concerns me is the last step.

" use diagnostic scan tool under hybrid control processor, in miscellaneous controls do belt capacity adaption reset and clear codes."

There are no CEL currently due to dealer clearing them. But what exactly is the "Belt capacity reset".

Not sure this requires a special scan tool or something I can purchase locally.
it's likely a routine you can run on a dealership level tool, I have read people have done it without that, so it might be fine.
Might be more if the belt is slightly differnet than the older one? idk
 
Just skimmed through R and R of the serpentine belt.
No mentioning of any use of a scan tool.

edit: found it under DTC, MGU verification. (This in AlldataDiy)
 
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Note the blue highlighted. This is in the information Darksteel attached above.
 

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Any suggestions for a proper scan tool to do this adaption?
Would prefer a hand held unit. Not a app download to phone or tablet.
 
Any suggestions for a proper scan tool to do this adaption?
Would prefer a hand held unit. Not a app download to phone or tablet.
I had just replaced my two tensioners and belt. Did the work myself. Very simple just basic tools and a breaker bar to release the tensioner on the pulley with the hydraulic, easily slide the belt off.

As for the water pump belt it was a bit more tougher as it is very tight. I had use a plastic putty knife and hand crank the pully, so the knife slowly work its way into the Groove to release the belt. Had no choice but to use what I had.

There is a tool for this specific job to release the belt, Google search will help you find that info. I did it without that tool. I had reuse my water pump belt as it was still in good condition
 
Also, no scan tool was needed. Just replace and drive
 
Going to order the parts to do this in a week.
The following Monday (19th) truck goes in for oil change. Figured if it needs a adaption with scan tool they can do it while its there.

Thank you for the info.
 
Scan tool for a belt change? Sound to me like yet another "service opportunity," so the dealership can charge you for something totally unnecessary.
Belt Capacity Adaptation Reset. My cynical mind has trouble with that made-up-sounding 'routine'.
The procedure probably also starts by having you disconnect the battery.

Steve
 
I would use an oem belt. I have read others have bought aftermarket and they were not as wide despite claiming to fit.

Do any of these documents help? Looks like there is a cheap tool you can get to assist with getting it on and off, not sure if you need it though.
The pdf's are great but I can't tell where to put the pin to lock open the upper idler.
 

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