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12" Sub Tie-In Decisions

heefageLA

heefageLA

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I had a Fox Box and single 10" sub in my 4th gen and always wanted just a little more bass.
I just ordered a 12" Single Sub Fox Box and a Kicker CompR 12" Sub along with an ANC By-Pass Harness. Simple and cheap (enough).
I was going to order 2 10" subs, dual box, new amp and spend over double the money, but I already have a decent amp that will push a 12" sub to the limit, so why not use it?

I have a '20 Laramie Crew Cab with the Alpine System.
The question is, can I tie into the ANC module to get signal to the sub and leave my factory 8" sub working, or do I have to use the factory subs signal to run the new setup?
I think it would be awesome to not even touch the 8" sub behind the seat and have both of them working together.

Any input on this is greatly appreciated. It will be a couple of weeks before the sub box arrives. Hopefully by then ill have a good game plan in mind.

Thanks
 
I’m going to assume you have Alpine.

I left the Alpine sub intact because I found that when the box is filled with polyfill, the 65-ish hertz and higher frequencies do well with that sub. I cut off all frequencies above 60 Hz for my 12” kicker comp.

My ‘22 is an ecodiesel so I don’t have ANC, but I did this same process on my ‘21 hemi. I used a $20 PAC LOC wired to the rear door speaker outputs from the amp because they have a full signal out. I then de-pinned and electrical taped the ANC input wires to the amp. You can safely do that and not cause codes, and when you are ready to remove everything for selling the truck, all you have to do is untape and push the pins back in the connector.

Since you have uconnect4, I highly suggest just spending the money on the PAC AP4-CH1. The cheap LOC is a solution that’s OK, but not without flaws. If you fade to front, you start losing the 12” sub output. Also, I noticed that the more voltage I supply the RCA’s through the remote LOC level knob, the quieter my rear 6x9’s are.
 
Ive heard you can splice into the ANC module which is under the driver's seat of certain trim models. I do have that module under my seat.
I havent really dug into what exactly is under there. Ill do that this weekend when I install the ANC bypass harness. It would be really nice to tie-in right there, tuck the wires under the carpet and not have to take the head unit out or mess with the factory sub.

Ill definitely get a nice LOC as well to clean the signal up as much as possible.

Thanks for the reply. Im hoping someone here has already done whats in my head and can give some feedback.

Thanks
 
heefageLA said:
Awesome. That seems pretty easy to accomplish. I thought there was a radio signal that you could tie into on the ANC module, but maybe not...
Click to expand...
There’s not.
 
So tying into the rear driver's door speaker is my signal.
Is this LOC from Audio Control what I would need? The LC2i seems to be a good unit.
Im not seeing any single channel LOCs out there. They are all 2-channel

Also, I cant tell the difference between the LC2i and LC2i Pro... other than cost... I dont think I would need the "pro" version, but dont know.

EDIT: I went with the standard LC2i.


www.crutchfield.com

AudioControl LC2i Line Output Converter (Black)

2-channel LOC for adding amps to your factory system
www.crutchfield.com www.crutchfield.com
 
Last edited:
heefageLA said:
So tying into the rear driver's door speaker is my signal.
Is this LOC from Audio Control what I would need? The LC2i seems to be a good unit.
Im not seeing any single channel LOCs out there. They are all 2-channel

Also, I cant tell the difference between the LC2i and LC2i Pro... other than cost... I dont think I would need the "pro" version, but dont know.

EDIT: I went with the standard LC2i.


www.crutchfield.com

AudioControl LC2i Line Output Converter (Black)

2-channel LOC for adding amps to your factory system
www.crutchfield.com www.crutchfield.com
Click to expand...
The lc2i is nice, that was a good choice. I got the bare bones cheapest thing I could get because it was in stock at best buy the morning I woke up and decided I needed to install a sub and amp in my truck with what I already had laying around. I got the scosche loc2sl.

4F8CDCB0-1BDE-42D7-BCE5-E385379B788E.jpeg
 
djevox said:
The lc2i is nice, that was a good choice. I got the bare bones cheapest thing I could get because it was in stock at best buy the morning I woke up and decided I needed to install a sub and amp in my truck with what I already had laying around. I got the scosche loc2sl.
Click to expand...


Ok. Been looking into the LC2i and there are two speaker line inputs required to get signal, left side and right side. Since im only running a sub off of this can I tie into the drivers side only, or would I have to run wire from the pass. side speaker as well?
I watched one video where the guy just used jumpers from one side to the other, but that seems a little too rigged up for me.

1650722267550.png
 
heefageLA said:
Ok. Been looking into the LC2i and there are two speaker line inputs required to get signal, left side and right side. Since im only running a sub off of this can I tie into the drivers side only, or would I have to run wire from the pass. side speaker as well?
I watched one video where the guy just used jumpers from one side to the other, but that seems a little too rigged up for me.

View attachment 127395
Click to expand...

705F27D8-A7CE-46A1-976B-9210474840FA.jpeg
 
1lowcab said:
This is hands down the easiest way to add a sub to the Alpine system. And it includes the ANC bypass harness.
AmpPRO SUB Advanced Amplifier Interface for Select Chrysler, Ram, Jeep, Dodge 2013 to 2020 - PAC
Click to expand...

I wonder if I could get that kit without their LOC and still use my LC2i with everything...
Ill get with PAC and see what they say. It would be great if I could get away without cutting any factory wiring.

I miss the days when you could build a bad *** audio system from the head unit back and it be super simple.
Im going to end up spending like $700+ just to add a sub in my truck... and I already have the amp!
 
Got the LC2i in today. Also heard back from PAC on their kit. Im a kind of torn between keeping the LC2i and splicing into the the rear door speaker or return what I have and get the APSUB-CH41...
The guy at PAC is somewhat of a salesman. Heres his response, "
There is a night and day difference between what the AP4 does vs the LC2i.
The AP4 takes a preamp signal from the radio and is able to control the output using the same data the radio sends to its own Alpine amplifier. Because we are taking a preamp signal we don't have to worry about any DSP changes from the OEM amplifier or Active Noise Cancelation(ANC) if the vehicle is equip with it.
The LC2i will use the crossed over signal coming from the amplifier and have to deal with ANC and rollback circuitry from the OEM system.
The LC2i can be used but might have issues due to the way the OEM amplified system operates.
I hope this helps. Have a nice day. "
 
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