Search results

Hey HSKR, let me see if I can help you explain this to H2OMAN because clearly he isn’t getting it. The ORG group adds 1” to the front and the back compared to the non-ORG group due to the springs. So yes, you lose the ORG spring when you replace with 6112s. If you put 6112s on a non-ORG and an...

I have a 2022 Laramie also. I had almost 2.25” of rake before putting the 6112s at #7. After about 1000 miles of driving, I’d say they have settled about 0.25” or so. I have a slight rake but it’s awfully hard to tell with the shape of our hoods. #7 should get you pretty close to perfectly level...

I just put mine on and I noticed a pretty significant difference too. I felt it as much as I felt my rear Hellwig sway bar when I had it on the lightest setting.

I know. I want to hear from others on how much of a difference it makes before dropping that kind of cash. We need a group buy. 😂

Awesome. I just pulled the trigger and ordered mine. I debating on doing the Hellwig front sway bar too while I’m at it, but don’t know if it’s worth the cost or not.

Anyone used these? I haven’t found much info on them but it seems to be for our new trucks. Yes, these are for the front too. https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/SMX-1319L

This is my setup. 6112s on #7 with Zone UCAs riding on LT285/65R20s on stock wheels. I also removed my front air dam.

How do most people communicate changes to the truck? Via an android phone with the alfaobd app or a laptop?

OBD Link MX+ is a Bluetooth connection though, right? I’d need something that can connect to my laptop. I’m not sure if my laptop has Bluetooth or not.

AlfaOBD can’t be read from an iPhone, correct? What all do I need to run alfaobd on my laptop? I have my Tazer. All I need is a OBD port to usb?

I’m also interested in this. I currently have the Tazer but want to do some things with alfaobd. From what I’ve understood from reading other posts, the Tazer can act like the security bypass. I’m also confused as to what all I need to run alfaOBD on my computer.

I know this is a 2” mopar lift thread, but I did the Bilstein 6112s at 2.2” with non ORP rear springs. I have 285/65R20s Nitto Recons on stock wheels. These are my clearances for anyone wanting a rough idea of tire clearances.

I set mine to 34.5” and didn’t have any trouble with my sensors working. I have the menu navigation issue though. It’s awful. Makes me want to unplug it and get rid of it. I hope they fix it soon. I also can’t set my DRL to the halos. It’s either low beams or turns. I’m at 18.1.5 version.

I just did a Bilstein 6112s level on my truck, and I didn’t have ORP springs. I put them in position 7 which is supposed to 2.2” of lift in the front. I’ve got 285/65R20s (34.6”x 11.2”) on stock wheels (20x8 +19mm offset). I have about a finger width of space between the inner side wall of the...

I had the exact same thing happen. What happened with your 24-298810 part numbers?

That looks awesome. I’m sold. 295/65R20s for me.

Can you post some pics of your truck? I want to see how they fill the wheel well and how far the protrude out. What is the stock offset of your wheels?

Nevermind. I was looking at the wrong Ready Lift kit. My apologies.

From my understanding of the ORG, you have a 1” lift from your ORP springs on all four corners when compared to non-ORG trucks like my Laramie. If you change out the front strut with the 6112s at stock height, you’ll technically be 1” lower in the front and increase your rake by 1 inch. Assuming...

I don’t think lift struts with preload spacers are a good idea. The lift struts already preload the spring to attain lift, and adding a preload spacer is just going to preload it even more. I believe you’d run the risk of damaging your truck.