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I don't pretend to be a mechanic but I can do most normal maintenance things (oil change, brake, etc). I went to do the first oil change on my 2021 1500 and soon realized that some evil engineer placed it in a spot where no normal oil wrench or human hand was designed to reach. I have all...

Where do you go to get your rig weighed? I've seen reference to cat scales but don't know where they exist.

Any luck checking your readings?

Sounds like it is fairly typical then. Just feels like I'm overworking the truck but hoping it is made for that.

Ok. I'm posting this knowing that there are a bunch going to say I don't have enough truck for the size camper, but I really just want to know what is considered normal. I have a 2021 ram 1500 quad cab 4x4 v8 non e-torque, 392 rear end. Truck specs based on vin: MAX PAYLOAD 1826.63LBS MAX...

Your #2 point makes sense. I've seen this before where there is a bad connection. Voltage was good but current not due to corroded contacts on a plug. Not sure where I could find a wiring diagram just for the brake circuit. I suspect hand tracing will be a huge pain.

It is just interesting that the Tekonsha controller, which I know did work on our 2014 Ram 1500, has the same readings as the factory installed unit on this 2021 1500. It plugs into the factory wiring plug so it is using the same circuitry.

Keep in mind that I'm actually measuring the flow of current through a load, not the voltage. My voltage reading are in line with yours but when I had a camper attached it didn't feel like the camper brakes were engaging, and pressing the slide buttons together, even with a power level of 10...

Just wanted to throw one more thing out there. When I did the alfaodb part, I chose the my2020 PowerNet. I have a 2021 but I'm assuming 2020 will work. Was this correct?

Just tried the Tekonsha controller and got the same results.

I set the resistor to 2.5 ohms, wired it up with an amp meter and drove the truck. Got up to 35mph, put on brakes, the most I read was 2.1 amps. This is with the setting on Light Electric with power up to 10. Next I'm going to wire in a Tekonsha Voyager brake control and see if it gives...

I actually found a tapped wirewound 100 watt resistor (used when building tube amps as an attenuator) . I hooked that up with the meter in series to measure amps. The resistor tap was set to 5 ohms. Most I could get out, on heavy electric setting and gain on 10 was about 1 amp. So is KMach's...

Makes perfect sense. I'm wondering what size resister I could put across the output terminals to test current. 3-4 ohms may be the DC resistance reading of the brakes but I suspect it is a reactive load more on the order of a few hundred ohms. As stated earlier, we have sold the camper, so I...

I went from 5 to 10. I put a voltage meter on the trailer plug and could measure voltage between ground and the brake out pins. Changing the level (with the buttons) also changes the voltage out. So I'm hoping it is working since I'm going to pick up a new camper next Sat.

Yes. The trailer worked fine with our old truck using a after market controller. Can voltage be checked coming out of the truck connector? Unfortunately, the camper was sold and just picked up. Going to get a new one on Sat. Not sure how to guarantee that the brakes work before we go.

If I go down the road and squeeze the paddles I can feel and hear the camper brakes come on but just a little. Not enough force to even slow my truck down. Pressing just the brake pedal does nothing even though the cluster shows the brakes being applied.

I installed the factory controller and used alfaodb to enable it. The brakes do not come on when I press the brake pedal. They will with the squeeze pedals but even with a setting of 10, they don't really stop the trailer. Everything seems to be working software wise. Any ideas?