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Just for information, if you buy a new door harness, you can salvage the 2 terminals needed for rear sensor install from the old harness. I think it might have been the speaker connector that had the right ones. Was a 2 pin connector with green/lime and green/purple wires.

I ended up using a single wire tie in the one hole that lined up with the $8 sensor. The cubby it sits in supports and surrounds all sides but 1 so you just need something to keep it from sliding out.

After removing bolts you can pull the carrier plate out enough to get an arm and 1/4 ratchet back there to do the other 2 bolts. The bolts go through 2 rather flexible plastic arms that give you some room to bend.

Here's a lazy and poor man's $8 tailgate sensor ready to connect to any generic 2 prong connector. 20g solid core paired wire soldered to sensor pins and heat shrunk for water proofing.

I would epoxy pigtail connection and heat shrink the rest

When the sensor shows up, I may solder leads directly to it and run pigtails to a generic connector that I use to splice into main harness. I have wire and many male/female connectors already. Seems easier than tracking down a factory connector/pins.

I wouldn't be opposed to buying the harness to keep it "stock" but no clue which one I'd need.

Name Price Quantity Total 6CV64GW7AD Exterior Door Handle, Right $80.39 2 $160.78 6CV50GW7AC Door Handle Cap, Left $7.24 1 $7.24 6CV52GW7AB Door Handle Cap, Right $7.55 1 $7.55 68439512AA Front Door Wiring $86.25 1 $86.25 68361306AD Front Door Wiring, Right $75.15 1 $75.15 Rear...

Thanks for the confidence boost...

No, didn't want to take order panel off till I found a drawing with retainer clip locations. I have a history of breaking trim when removing. Think i found it in a mirror replacement thread so will be cracking it open in the morning.

I have all the parts and will be installing on my 2020 as soon as I figure out how to take door panels off. Silly hidden screws.

I guess a follow up question would be if its possible to tap sub input pre-amp and run an additional sub/amp

With the 9 speaker setup with factory sub, what is most cost effective way to add a little more punch to the lows? Is there a good direct sub swap that can be done, or speaker replacements in general? And would swapping speakers do much without adding extra power to the mix?

Parts ordered... hoping I got the right harness for both sides. 2020 5.7 etorque big horn lvl 2. If they don't work, I'll likely just splice the harness thats there and return the new ones. 68439512AA 68361306AD

Thanks for chiming in, did not feel like getting more involved with other poster with specifics. The 5.7 hemi has 2 efficiency sweet spots. The best is 1200RPM (Think highway speed with 3.21 gears) and the second around 2200RPM with a slight reduction in efficiency which is more than offset by...

Problem was found, a frayed wire in the harness shorted against the frame which caused the tcm failure

I'm done with this exchange as a peeing contest is not beneficial to the board.

I have to idle my truck all of the time and only see the estimated miles drop by maybe 3 ^ your quote, not mine It is physics. Efficiency of energy transfer is very important in physics, just look at a puley when lifting an engine. Or the fact a shaft drive is less efficient than a chain...

Per FCA etorque literature, the hemi 5.7 will use 3 oz of fuel at idle in 90 seconds, which is 2oz/min. 10 min is 20 oz of gas. A gallon is 128 oz so its closer to 1/5 or 1/6 gallon for every 10 min of idle time. If your average mpg drops by 3 when you were averaging 15, that's a 20% drop and...

Sucks for those having milage issues but I may have some insight based on personal experience. 1. Verify speedometer with GPS for accurate cluster readings. Tire size is programed from factory based on the size of the rubber, but this is inaccurate when they are mounted with the weight of...