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Checking in here 15 months, 15k miles, and 3 oil changes later after my initial install and everything is still solid, no leaks..*knocks on wood!!* Going down to below zero temps this week so figured fresh oil and an inspection was due. Im pretty sure I'm running the v1 kit, with the black O rings.

What T case are you running? The real one or the “auto” version? What oil in the T case? Possible that maybe you broke the front diff?

Engines are expensive, oil is not. Ive never done mine under 50% life on the meter. Usually 4-5k miles. Thats a lot of starts and road time if you really think about it. The car ECU doesn't know what type of oil you are using and will give the same results for dino/semi/fullsyn. Hell you could...

When I did it I hammered off the broken head, then put the bit thru the flange to act as a guide and drilled away. It wasn't easy i used 2x 3/8” carbide bit because I broke the first one halfway thru. Slow speed and cutting oil are your friend here.

Does anyone have a link to where you can still purchase this grill?

Yes apple phone and Jscan with the security bypass cable and an obd2 bluetooth adaptor.

When you change the theme in settings, to say the blue theme, (which i believe is Laramie) are you also using jscan to change it in the cluster to match? I think the cluster theme (using jscan) must match what you pick in the theme settings (on the 8.4” screen) for it to stick. Ive still been...

I am entering this chat to help with this because I want my front lamps to be red.

When you change the dash theme, are you also changing the theme in the center screen to match it? I think this needs to be done for them to stick.

I extended mine by just cutting the harness and extending the 2 wires with marine grade shrink butt connectors. Cost about $5. Like others my RAM was not happy after moving the sensors. They worked but would false a lot. Now I just run them permanently off like its the 90s again.

When I put 33" tires on mine with 3.21 gears it threw the ECU way out of whack. It was 4mph off at 70 (read74). The shifting was not great unloaded and terrible loaded up towing a camper. Got it dialed in perfect with JScan and it resolved all the issues with my setup. I would recommended...

I removed mine and I'm pretty sure I still have the entire motor, dam, mechanics, hardware etc. Ill take a look, im in Detroit area, its all yours if you want it.

Ive got about 8k on mine, two oil changes so far, no leaks. Ive got the older kit. I used hydraulic loctite on all the fittings.

Also one note I should make about using the curt class 5 hitch and the RC is the top plate on the receiver is very wide and I had to make 1/4” x 3/4” relief cuts to allow the RC to fit properly. Noticed it when mocking it up and did those cuts and painted myself before giving the parts to the...

Same here, I would have preferred the RC bumper had cutouts to use the oem plate lights but the bolt lights are a pretty cool custom touch. Thats the one thing the shop messed up, the hooked up the lights but did not put the plate on lol. They wanted it for another day to do that I told them no...

Finally got the truck back from the body shop with the new curt class 5 hitch and the RC. Absolutely love the setup. Extremely solid.

Mine in my 2019 ram bighorn are 433Mhz as well. Im pretty sure all rams, all trims use the 433Mhz. You need to verify if they are still alive with a tpms tool, and if they are indeed alive, that they are the correct frequency and compatible IDs. You never know.. ram wheels fit chevy trucks...

I also torqued that fitting before installing the puck. I used a nice set of crows foot wrenches to get the system installed as well.

I paid $799 for the RC shipped to my front door.

Just to confirm from my earlier post, the new front axles are TrakMotive.