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For me, I'm curious to know how this began, to get the E-torque system installed to begin with. It's fairly new correct? Meaning, was it due to complaints about the abrupt starts due to the START/STOP addition? Was it for improving the fuel mileage (or both) and if so, what real testing to show...

Same as the heated seats. Except those show 3 heat settings. The wheel just one. When you tap it, it lights up for on, then tap again for off. In JSCAN you can select on/off which is the default or high, medium , low, off. As other posters have said, it was something that USED to be able to be...

For the steering wheel, it was Modules, Body Controller, Configuration, then just select the heated steering wheel levels. For the brake light alt blinking (which may even work I just haven’t been able to tell while in the truck just yet), was Adaption, Lights conversion US-EURO, separated...

Can confirm, I just didn’t have the 12 pin connector seated all the way in. Problem solved! Having said that, afterwards, I did cycle the radio twice just to see if my steering wheel heater options would be added per the changes with JSCAN and the answer was no. I’m assuming HSKR R/T was...

I guess I’m basically talking to myself here but maybe someone will have this in the future and will follow along. After lots if internet research there is only one (maybe 2) solutions that makes sense (to solve my error of “SOS call unavailable”. People who,have had this issue with Ram/Dodge...

I can confirm the fog lights stay on with my high beams but as mentioned the steering wheel change did not work and not sure about the break light alternating blinking with turn signal. Having said that, I got this error from my radio (see attached image). I was able to hit okay and it went away...

Good to know. I also turned off the seat belt alarm. Hopefully SOMETHING I’ve done actually works. Guess we may need a new or another updated JSCAN thread of what now does NOT work. @Jimmy07 can you confirm any of this as well? I do have a start stop eliminator but that works because I have it...

Made a variety of changes: steering wheelheater from just on/off to high, med,low ,off, then fog light dropout with high beams, brake light alt blinking with turn signal. Waited about 15-20 minutes started up and did not see the heated steering wheel change. Didn’t check the others. I figured it...

I’m sure I’ll find out on my own when trying this but I assume we don’t have to use AUTO high beams to make/deactivate fog light dropout when turning on high beams? Because I can’t stand auto high beams. They turn on and off at the wrong times in many cases. Thanks

How long had you had the truck before this started happening to you?

I did with Saran Wrap.

Engine replaced. “Seems” to run fine, the only thing I’m noticing different is starting. It turns just a little bit longer before starting (noticeable to me), but still starts. It used to roar to life every time before when pushing the button to start. Battery voltage is fine as well. Maybe...

Thank you!!!!

Curious, did they start and shut off the engine 5 times, or simply push the button put to run, then off 5 times?

Thanks, I also have a clamp meter I used on my boat to track/mesure DC amp draws for a multitude of things. I wish we had a schmatic and/or pictures of all those ground connections on this truck. Before my 24 limited went in for a new engine (yes, ugh with only 7100 miles), I noticed the battery...

How did you find it? I would imagine there a tons of places with ground wires throughout the truck

Did I mention the Charger burns my A$$ right out of the seat on high? My gosh. Have to switch to low less than 3 miles after starting and being in freezing temps. My Limited doesn’t get anywhere near that hot (it’s not bad, but this seat is amazing). Not sure if cloth seats have something to do...

Yeah, oil changes probably have more to do with long term engine reliability, but I really did this to also establish a relationship with the local dealer given this was purchased from Mark Dodge 2000 miles away. Anyway, yes they have ordered a new long block due to arrive this Friday or Monday...

Okay, I guess the battery voltage etc was not the major issue. The POP AND GRINDING NOISE WAS. it’s called a broken piston in cylindernumber 7! Soooo, after just 7100 miles I need a new engine. Had the oil changed at 1000 and 3000 miles. Any thoughts as to what caused this? Simply a faulty part?

Not sure if it means anything but I did just happen to get a “health report”update in the Ram app while the dealer has been starting and stopping the engine while diagnosing the truck. The health report says Electronic Throttle Control. ECT failure. It may mean nothing but it does make sense...