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I'm running Airlift Bags and offset spacers in my OEM Rear coils..a 1" spacer under the LR and a 0.5" spacer under the RR. This makes me a dead level side to side and netted me 0.75-0.875" in the rear (to go with my Level +1" in Front). There are no geometrical or mechanical issues with spacers...

+1...Eibach Stage2...⤵️ ~2.625-2.75"F & ~0.75-0.875"R 285/60R20...~33.25"

Maybe try switching to the Mevotech TTX Front endlinks(?), they're OEM style but heavy duty with u/l grease zerks.

The only rear springs that are R/L specific are Carli springs..all others are a single spring for R&L interchangeable use. Rams just left lean..poor OEM design!

Yep, that the "Ram Left Lean"!! I popped the RR coil out and cut one whole coil off the top and that get it to about 1/4-3/8" left lean. I now have it dead level by going with a 1/2" spacer under that RR and a 1" spacer under the LR. (I'm also Leveled +1" in front)

It does take some work to only get 8 MPG, but great job, congrats! Oh, my bad, you meant you made it to 23 MPH finally, also congrats! I'll stop now before I get haters that don't get my humor!🤣

I'm super curious if you were able to get "Drive Modes" somehow on a pre-2025 DT...I'd love to have them on my 2024 Laramie G/T.

I know you're asking the question to El kamotudo, but I've got them and really love them..got rid of the torsional affect of the OEM bars and is much smoother overall. The rear ride height dropped by 1/8" from the loss of the torsional affect also. Here's some pics...⤵️

The Eibach Rear Swaybar will significantly decrease the side to side sway and "boaty" feeling of the Ram trucks..although upgrading the struts & shocks does that also quite a bit. These difference in tire-to-uca gap is due to differences in Camber & Caster from L-to-R sides from the...

Get the Eibach rear sway bar too, it will really improve the handling with the Stage2 setup...⤵️

These DTs are lighter in back, so seem to ride better with lower rear tire psi. Carli suggests 35F/30R, the lowest I've tried is 36F/33R and I liked it, but it's hard to regulate that lower psi in Wisconsin winters when we go from 32° to 0° to minus° swings. Recently when attending a late night...

Technically, your 285/70R18 measures to 2779mm, so over that magical 2700mm limit that causes the sensor disable, but here's a caveat to that...if you run lower tire psi, the OAD is smaller and that helps. I think I recall Rebels run 55F/45R tire psi(?). You'd be more comfortable running lower...

I don't know that I've heard any conflicting info here..if you change your tire size and don't adjust your speedometer calibration, your trans shift points will be off..and not in a good way, it'll be sluggish. Use AlfaOBD or Jscan for adjustments.

You could spray them with a DipCoat type of spray paint that can be peeled off if desired later, but it'll deteriorate and needed to be redone depending on the environment you live in. I've successfully painted rums before. Clean them with a degreaser, spray them down with a brake cleaner...

Another option...⤵️ https://www.ironman4x4.com/products/strut-top-ram-1500-2019-isst075dt?_pos=10&_fid=d909f6a48&_ss=c

I had a 1991 Celica GTS 5spd, white with blue leather, BBS wheels, ~100k miles, but spotless until I got hit by a truck and totalled.

"Now this may not "fix" your problem of shifting in and out of 8 th when towing. That could just be because of the extra power it takes to turn those big tires. More weight and more wind resistance." Like HSKR R/T stated..plus, going from 33.2" to 34.8" killed your rear gearing, especially if...

I wonder if a set of the Rain/Wind Deflectors that is held in place by sliding into the windows tracts would put enough pressure on the windows and seals to work for what you're looking for(??).

On my '25 U5-12, my first update failed from wifi also. I went into Uconnect programming and turned off the wifi connection to my Home wifi (I think the range was at it's max and unreliable), and each update has worked since then. Just something to try.

20x9" +1mm offset 285/60R20 (33.5"/11.5")