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Older picture, but this is essentially what the rig looks like without Boost power fold tow mirrors installed. I'm using Timbrens with Bilsteins, factory 3.92s, with 295s. Average about 11.5 or so with mountain driving included. I try to stay under 70 or so for decent fuel mileage with the 33...
This is what I did. I turned and clocked my power jack 90 degrees and its worked perfect. Now the pup can climb up into the rig while we are still trailered up.
I wouldn't worry about it. Mine has been making some noise for awhile(VERY LOUD). My son jokingly asked if I had a diesel. When they ordered the parts immediately, they didn't mention to not drive it, or baby it, or anything like that. If it continues to crack, it just gets louder.
Got mine in the shop and showed them the cold start videos from the past 3 mornings. They immediately agreed to have a tech look at it and get the parts on order. Came back with the passenger manifold cracked. Super quick appt, and my parts are ETA of two weeks which I don't think is terrible...
Have you started looking at which headers you might want? I don't need anything crazy and I would rather keep my exhaust stock as I pull a camper with my pup in the bed with a softopper.
Mine is going in next week for a cracked manifold. I took a few cold start videos for the tech to confirm in case it was warmed up enough when I drop if off for the appt. I'm hoping they have parts in stock as this is a large volume dealer. I saw recently where another owner had his swapped...
I agree. My 26ft NOBO 19.3BHS has a dry hitch weight of 550. I looked at the floor plan of the lance and can't figure out why it would be so heavy. Most of the 26-30 ft Toyhaulers have hitch weights like that, not standard TT.
Offroad, a disconnected sway bar is money. On road, around corners, towing..sway bar is good. For hooning around Offroad or where he wants max independent travel, no sway or disconnected sway is the way.
I bought some timbrens for hauling around our camper. Im super happy with them, but I didn't want to leave them in for daily driving. Long story short, my factory rear bump stops were cracked up and I didn't want to pay $45 for a pair of new ones. After measuring and checking diagrams, I...
Agreed. If I could move it down a little to be able to see parking lines when backing in, I would love it. I've added adjustable ones on every other truck due to that one need.
I wanted width over height. I’m sure the difference would have been fine and I could clear the 285s with ease, just had 295s in stock at my local tire shop.
Post up a pic when you get it done. I think you definitely want to run HD springs. I've run Clayton stuff on my Jeeps and it worked well. On my gladiator, I ran HD springs in the rear to allow for towing my 4500 pound Offroad camper.
it's posted elsewhere, but for the sake of forum integrity and congruency, I'm running a 295/70/18 just fine on my stock, no air setup. I wheeled it this weekend with no issues. I did remove the tiny 'mudflap' trim piece up front and trimmed off the mounting bracket for it. I'm running 1.5"...
Thanks LA21 for the post. I moved to 295/70-18 Ridge Grapplers. I removed the small “mud” flaps and trimmed their support bracket off to have extra clearance Offroad. Took them on a shakedown run with 0 rubbing. Mine is a 2020 Rebel no Air.
Dumb question, but do you happen to know if you need to add the remote start module(in addition to programming it) in order to make the remote start function on the key work? Long story short, I've got a factory unlocked key with remote start button, and I can enable the setting in Jscan. I...
I run a softopper personally. I had one on my built gladiator as well. I need the top personally for daily things like hauling kids sports bags, my 130 pound Newfoundland poodle, and golf clubs/guns. The beauty of the softopper is within 30 seconds, I can have my full truck bed back for hauling...
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